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Mostrando os 18 vias.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Popularidade
Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
18 Time Out

Start as for 'Seneca'.

Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24

Trad 50m
17 Shock Treatment

Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall.

Topo is vague at the top - pls fix if you know where it finishes.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00

P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay.

P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop.

Trad 50m
Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
18 Blue Diamond

Start as for Out of the Blue but go right around the roof rather than through it, then back left to rap station. Apparently thin on gear.

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, May 2015

Trad 32m
18 Kaiser LHF

The brittle flake on the L wall of the chimney/gully of 'Kaiser' p4.

Start: Start at Kaiser's third belay.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Phillip Armstrong, 1978

Trad 25m
18 Kaiser Resignation Direct

In p1 of Kaiser, go direct up the crack instead of traversing left and dog-legging right.

Trad 90m, 4
18 Skylark Direct Finish

Straight up above the Kestrel rap station. Move left and mantle the ledge (crux). Straight up from there, sneak right under the roof and continue up mildly overhanging rock to Flinders Lane.

FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 1996

Trad 38m
18 Yo Yo Variant Finish
1 30m
2 24m
3 15 40m
4 18 12m
5 14m

This finish to the top of the cliff is a bit unbalanced but probably worthwhile. Maybe do it in conjunction with the grade 18 third pitch variant.

  1. 30m (-) From top of third pitch climb over bulge and continue up, veering slightly right.

  2. 24m (-) Through a break in overhangs then follow an obvious crack system up right.

  3. 40m (15) Follow line over 2 overhangs to below a prominent obstruction.

  4. 12m (18) The large overhang

  5. 14m (-) Onwards

FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 120m, 5
18 Falcon

A good climb and a nice 1 pitch option in this area.

Start: Start right of 'Yo Yo' - the big gully.

  1. 10m (10) Climb up to the terrace vis the easiest route you can find. A good, well-protected grade 19 alternate pitch is the initial 7 metre crack of "They Shoot Pigeons Don't They" and then move left to the belay; just be wary of the big blocks on the ledge.

  2. 20m (18) Climb up the corner then step into the right hand line (left-hand line may be slightly easier but protection is more difficult). A few tricky moves lead to some very enjoyable climbing. Traverse up and right to the exit and rap-anchor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norman Booth, 1973

Trad 30m, 2
Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
18 Trump Tower

A good pitch up the buttress between Syrinx and The Lute. Double ropes are useful.

  1. 40m Up the initially narrow buttress just left of The Lute for about 10m to a blank wall. Traverse 2m left to some seams just right of the Syrinx chimney and go up a few metres. Move back right to the continuation line, and runners, and go up to belay level with the top of the Broken Song Wall. To get off, traverse right to the anchors of The Lute.

FA: Keith Lockwood, 13 Sep 2017

Trad 40m, 2
18 Riding the Quayle

‘’We’ll give you a dink, Beau’’ A fantastic journey up Tiger Wall. Start: the next seam right of Little by Little. Begin at ground level, at the brushed streak (or step right from base of Little By Little which makes the first pitch 32m).

  1. 45m Up the line, moving out right and then back left when the seam steepens. Easier ground up to the final smooth headwall, which is climbed direct (FH,crux) to a small ledge. Avoid the temptation to go 5m higher to a better looking ledge.

  2. 35m A pitch of three increasingly interesting bulges. From the right side of the belay ledge climb up to the first bulge featuring a football-shaped scoop. Continue to the next bulge featuring a bolt runner, and on to the top bulge featuring a prominent crack. This leads to the ledge on the right side of the Belvedere.

  3. 35m Up nice crack on right side of the slab. When it blanks out, continue direct to the headwall. A ramp leads out right to the airy prow. Up to terrace.

  4. 15m Up wall to next terrace. Walk off right.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 9 Sep 2017

Mixed trad 130m, 4, 2
17 Beetlemania

The easiest route on Broken Song Wall. Nice climbing but the ledge system breaks the flow.

Belay as for Little By Little.

Move right and go up easy ground on Riding The Quayle to ramp at 5m. Step up and go up diagonally right and up to a slight nose. Move around the left side of the nose to avoid large detached blocks and up to a large ledge that stretches off to the right. Lovely climbing up crack on left edge of ledge until it stops. Smooth wall past a FH to lower-off.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, 30 Apr 2018

Mixed trad 35m, 1
18 To Say Nothing Of The Dog

A long second pitch culminating in a fantastic finish up the centre of The Belvedere. Lots of slings and long draws to reduce drag.

  1. 35m 17 As for Beetlemania but move up from the rings and belay on right-hand side of ledge. You can belay at the rap rings, but not as comfortable

  2. 42m 18 Up the easy ramp above the belay for 7m, and pull over a bulge. Up to next bulge and FH (up to here is as for the second pitch of Riding The Quayle). Climb past the bolt then step left and up to the lovely orange crack leading to the overhang at the base of The Belvedere. Climb the overhang past FH and up to middle of The Belvedere and FH. Up into finishing crack in sensational position (shorter climbers may need to use the guano-stained holds to left to get going).

There are FHs on top to allow a comfortable belay as well as the rap anchor just below the top. 45m abseil to rings near top of first pitch.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2018

Mixed trad 77m, 2, 4
17 DejaVu, I Think

So-so. Second pitch is OK.

Start: Scramble across to a line about 3 metres right of The Dribble's second pitch overhang.

  1. 25m (14) Line 3 metres right of 'The Dribble' to belay on loose blocks

  2. 30m (17) Step left from ledge and up to groove bounding left side of upper wall. Onwards to scrubby ledge. Scramble off down right to rappel.

FA: Peter Treby, Kieran Loughran & Peter Allen, 1983

Trad 60m, 2
Tiger Wall Senior Citizens Wall
18 Senior Citizens

A delightful second pitch and the approach isn't too bad despite appearances.

Start at a right-facing corner leading to an overhang above the terrace.

  1. 25m (15) Bridge corner up to and past overhang. Easy crack and then face climb on the right to avoid scrub. Near the top move right and up to a belay on the right.

  2. 15m (18) Step left and up groove and face crack to hard finish when crack fades. Rap anchor directly above.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Trad 40m, 2
17 Bats In The Belfry

A good old-fashioned route – a major geological fault above Pan Grove, between Senior Citizens etc and The Bat Cave. It’s the polished chimney right of Rat on Roller Skates, and is visible from the Wimmera Highway.

Chimney and bridge glassy rock past various blockages, exiting left at the top.

An alternate finish is to traverse left from the first chockstone for 3 or 4 metres then go up to rap bolt. Added by Nod and Kieran Loughran 25/10/2018

FA: Keith Lockwood, 6 Oct 2018

Trad 25m
17 An Alien Cut My Rope

Start behind the twisted tree.

Wander up through next tier to find belay at callitris.

FA: Pritchard, Hoskins & Wilkins, 1994

Trad 25m
17 Creep Show

This route takes a black groove at the right hand end of the ledge. Belay at ledge from where it is possible to walk off right.

FA: Pritchard & Hoskins, 1994

Trad 15m
Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V0/0+ Corner Arete

Straight up the bulging arete right side of right wall trending left to exit via central groove, stand start from the crimp steps.

Boulder 5m

Mostrando os 18 vias.

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