Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Deep Freeze Wall | |||||
22 | Wonder What I'll Call This?
The line in the middle. Start: Start in the middle of the small buttress uphill from 'Deep Freeze Wall'. FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985 | 10m | |||
21 | Saddle Sore
The weakness just L of a pedestal. Start: Start 5m L of S. FA: Mark Walters, Angela Emmerson & R Foster, 1985 | 10m | |||
23 | ★ Strapping
Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up. Start: Start 1m L of H. FA: Kieran Loughran & Mark Walters, 1985 | 15m | |||
23 | Deep Blue
Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think. FFA: Eddy Mofadin, 2014 | 18m, 1 | |||
24 | Handshake
The flared handcrack. Start: Start 4m L of DF. FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980 | 15m | |||
27 | Chill Pill
Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish? FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Deep Freeze
The leftwards diagonal. Not well protected at the start, but a great little route. It can also be done starting up Deep Throat. FA: Mark Moorhead & Eddy Ozols, 1980 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Deep Throat
The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially. Start: Start 1m R of DF. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 15m | |||
Mari Buttress | |||||
14 | Penny Lane
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017 | 20m | |||
14 | Meanwhile...
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss. FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985 | 20m | |||
26 | Purgatory
Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Evans Above
Start as for Megalomaniac. Up Megalomaniac a little, L to sickle crack, then over roof. FA: Mike Smith & Dennis Kemp, 1981 | 40m | |||
23 | ★★ Poly Evans
Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy. FA: Bradd Jimmink & Geordie Webb, 5 Feb 2019 | 28m, 2 | |||
26 | Polygap
As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR. FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994 | 36m, 3 | |||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac
Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor. FA: John Moore, 1967 | 28m | |||
21 | ★ Power Crazy
Start up Megalomaniac then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy. FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Rees & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 28m | |||
24 X | ★ Run It Out, Sucker
Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge. FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985 | 36m | |||
26 | The Best of Hollywood
Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds. FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m | |||
17 | ★★★ Mari
Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in. FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 35m | |||
22 R | ★★ Devoid
Initial moves poorly protected. Bring micro cams, RP's and also some large wires, a 7or8 can help if you're creative. Start 3m R of Mari. Thin flake then R into corner, then stay L of the gully. The RHF takes the groove on the R (21) for the last 10m. FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian (RHF by Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher), 1985 | 35m | |||
23 R | ★★ Vacancy
Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior. FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979 | 25m | |||
24 | Another One Bites the Dust
Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack. FA: Mike Graham, 1980 | 40m | |||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior
An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top. FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976 | 30m | |||
21 | ★★ Droop Street
Sustained arete, ample gear but you need to be able to hang on to get it in. Start a few metres R of Electric Warrior. Step left into line then up and right at 10m. FA: Andrew Thomson & Nic Taylor, 1977 | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Femroc
Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall. FA: Louise Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1979 | 20m | |||
22 R | IPD
Poor pro up wall with large scar at 10m. Start 2m R of F. FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1984 | 20m | |||
22 R | Copper Seven
Wall with poor pro. Start 2m R of IPD. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 20m | |||
10 | IUD
The diagonal line. Start 4m R of CS. FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 20m | |||
23 R | ★ Moving Right Along
Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D. Start 8m L of D. FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980 | 14m | |||
25 | ★★ Dyslexia
Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan. Start just L of the arete. FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979 | 10m | |||
26 | King of the Jungle
"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 10m | |||
19 | Up In My Bedroom
As you walk off the top of Mari Buttress you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down. Up righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top. The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank. FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999 | 10m | |||
21 | Maman! Maman!
Up to pin, step left then up headwall. Start in the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall. FA: Jon Bassindale, Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 10m | |||
18 | Don't Do This
At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top. FA: Nikki Sutherland & Deb Sweet, 1999 | 10m | |||
16 | Lets Do Lunch
See arapiles.net for a photo. Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland & Jon Basindale, 1999 | 12m | |||
Cecilia Wall | |||||
6 | Stepping Stones
Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge. FA: Keith Lockwood | 18m | |||
6 | Skipping Girl
3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge. FA: Keith Lockwood | 18m | |||
12 | Humpty Dumpty
Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge. FA: Keith Lockwood | 18m | |||
8 | Merry Go Round
Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner. FA: Keith Lockwood | 25m | |||
13 | Slippery Dip
Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner. FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford | 25m | |||
7 | Wool socks and galoshes
This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way. FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 5 Dec 2016 | 25m | |||
12 | ★ Pure and Simple
Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8! FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984 | 30m | |||
16 | Flying Foxes
Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple. FA: Keith Lockwood et al. | 30m | |||
22 | All Day Sucker
Up the slab, going R and L a bit. Start just L of FotR. FA: James Falla...with 5 on the blunt end!, 1985 | 20m | |||
13 | Fox on the Rocks
From the block step L and up frictional slab. Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976 | 20m | |||
22 R | ★ Show Us Your Scabs
The slab, scary up high. Start just R of FotR. FA: James Falla & Dave Mudie, 1986 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Bestiality
Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue. Start 2m R of SUYS. FA: Dave Mudie & James Falla, 1986 | 20m, 1 | |||
22 | Fun and Games
The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over. Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Johns Corner
Start off the top of the detached pillar. Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up. FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson (DF by Lincoln Shepherd & Anthony Ryan), 1990 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ John's Corner Direct
From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route. | 25m, 1 | |||
24 R | ★ Split Level
Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join Cecilia. It's worse to second than to lead. Start as for JC. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 30m | |||
22 | ★ Wall of Horrors
Another traverse which needs a strong second. May have been somewhat sanitised by the later bolts of GftP and BE. A very noteworthy ascent for the era by a young Lindorff. Start as for JC.
FA: P1 Kevin Lindorff, 1976 FA: P2 Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 50m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Guide for the Perplexed
Start 3m R of Johns Corner at RB, face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness. Lower off. FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990 | 25m, 4 | |||
25 | ★ Buddhist Economics
Reachy start past 2 RBs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness. Start just L of C. FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990 | 25m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Cecilia
Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap. Then follow the crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. 1 good FH, 3 manky carrot bolts (don't trust these). Bolted anchor at the top is back from the edge so if you want to lower off them you may trash your rope. It's also ok to step R to the GoB anchor and deal with a bit of sideways swinging. FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Hancock, 1970 FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1976 | 25m, 4 | |||
26 | ★ Clap Hands
Crank up the line past FH to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove. Start 1.5m R of C. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 15m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ I-GoB-BA Link-Up
Really very good link up. Intransience's initial steep moves to a rest, then L and up as for Blind Ambition, to the chains. (There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent). FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997 | 27m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★★ Intransience
Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall. Start 10m R and down from Cecilia. Trad anchor on top. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Blind Ambition
Start on ground level 10m down R of I. Short crack past RB to ledge on I, and up I drifting R to jug on bulge. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up past final RB as for GoB to rap chains. FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★ Girls on Bikes
Start 1.5m R of BA. Bulging white crack and steeply onwards until the angle eases, then traverse L to ledge on Intransience. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to (original:) finish up Cecilia or (better:) stay a few metres R of Cecilia past final RB, to rap chains. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981 | 40m | |||
6 | Space Corp Directive 703472A
Involves a rubber chicken. On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left. FA: Greg Pritchard & Deb Sweet, 1999 | 10m | |||
19 | Change of Plans, Leg it!
Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face. FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999 | 10m | |||
20 | Entering the Gelf Zone
On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear. FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
17 | Nanobots
On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete. FA: The Cat, Kryten, Lister & Kochanski, 1999 | 10m | |||
8 | Emohawk
Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete. FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996 | 10m | |||
Skyline Walls | |||||
20 | Piece of Shit
Start as for F. Traverse L past F and up the Intransience face (see the Cecilia Wall area). FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985 | 35m | |||
19 | Frontispiece
Start at the far L end of Skyline Walls about 20m L of Copyright. Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the Intransience face. FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 30m | |||
19 R | Trademark
Start just R of F. The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Thin Air
Start 1m R of T. Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982 | 20m | |||
26 | ★ Fists of Fury
Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of Exodus II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Exodus lI
Well chalked line left of Copyright. Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Mass Exodus
Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original. | 20m | |||
V5 | Outrageous Coincidences R to L
| ||||
26 | ★★ Copyright Direct
Takes the line immediately right of Exodus II and left of Copyright. Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of Exodus II. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Copyright
An exhausting undertaking up the major line on the wall (left-trending crack). Once graded 20! Steeply left to left leaning flake and poor rest. Step left then up. FA: Colin Reece & Rod Young, 1979 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Bit Torrent
Start as for Copyright and continue up crack direct to top half of Bootleg. FA: Wendy Eden, Anthony Pattison & Nic Kiraly, 2010 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Bootleg
Start just R of Copyright. Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the thread to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bit Torrent is better. FA: Kim Carrigan, Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979 | 20m | |||
16 | Boot Off
After the bouldery start of Bootleg, continue up wall right of that route. Some poor rock and gear. | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Revolution Rock
Start 10m down R of Copyright in small gully. Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left and up to an old wad of cord to lower off. There is also a few more FHs 2-3m R of this line - anyone know what this is? FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 18m | |||
24 | ★ Revolution Rock Low Start
Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets. | ||||
21 | Rasputin
Located on the level down and right of the Exodus ledge. Starts up poorly protected corner with hard climbing and poor rock to ledge. Continue up corner to roof, then exit right past bulge and then L to finish up arete. FA: Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979 | 30m | |||
23 | Clash
Starts just right of Rasputin. Short problem past ancient fixed wire. Climb groove to the wire, then using a flake, up to roof and onwards to ledge. A good anchor can be found on the wall above this or there are chains at the top of Tres Hard. FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983 | 10m | |||
25 | ★★ I'm a Mess
Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 15m | |||
25 | ★ Tres Hard
Starts right of I'm A Mess. Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to chains at top. Powerful. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 15m | |||
25 | ★ Playing With A Different Sex
Starts 2m right of Tres Hard and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear. FA: Roland Foster, 1982 | 18m, 3 | |||
11 | Freckled Duck
Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of Tres Hard. | 26m | |||
24 | Guns of Brixton
Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of On High and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins On High near the top. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ On High
Well chalked bouldery start to large undercling, then up into groove, finishing above little roof. Well protected and classic climbing. FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Non-Stop
Right of On High are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 20m | |||
25 | Cuddly Fat
Just right of Non Stop at slight corner. Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness. FA: Chris Shepherd & Allan Wilkie, 1982 | 20m | |||
19 | Hassan
Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave. FA: Rod Young, Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979 | 20m | |||
14 | Next Horizon
3m right of Hassan is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above. FA: Rod Young, 1979 | 20m | |||
16 | Cream Puff
Start 2m R of NH. Grotty corner. FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd & Kazimierczak, 1990 | 8m | |||
24 | Slip, Slop, Slap
Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably. Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements. FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990 | 12m, 2 | |||
26 | ★ Blast Off
Starts 5m right of Slip Slop Slap. Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above. FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990 | 16m, 2 | |||
24 | Smithereens
3m right of Blast Off and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above. FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 10m | |||
22 | Moins Hard
The next 3 routes are on the upper level, access by scrambling down gully from the top to fixed rope and plank. Directly above Tres Hard is this slightly less hard crack. FA: Wendy Eden & Jess McMahon, 20 Apr 2016 | 10m | |||
25 | Wastemaster
Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket. FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988 | 10m, 2 | |||
19 R | Into Darkness
The looming arete in the gully climbers left of Starless Buttress, covered mostly in Lichen. Line goes direct up the right side of the arete, find whatever gear you can. Committing final move up overhang to jugs. FA: Michael Lehmann, 4 Apr 2021 | 15m | |||
26 | Pull My Strings
Start 7m R of W. Stick clip the bolt then up the wall. FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988 | 10m, 1 |