Ascensões em Australia por Harrie Van de Linde tendo trad-cpr or ascent-date

What a Beauty of a climb, wanted to get on this for ages!!! It's very underrated being at the far end of the crag, most people miss it. Book says 18, crag says 20. 20s about right, some hard finger crack laybacks n whatnot really get you thinking. I Was sooo close to the top with a double pinch move, but just rushed it and missed a simple foot spot. Easy enough second go, will come back another time. all the other roofs on this end wall look pretty cool too. no one else wanted to try, rap down to clean.

while the corner was wet, climbed this arete to set another anchor.

just set a TR for the group to get everyone on the wall. (multiple newbies) bit hard to see/hear the climber from the bottom but big group, meant someone could be much further back to watch.

had a great time on this with Khush, both got a few leads, something different to doing Cornerstone for a 3rd time!! some cool moves, good gear and topped at a similar time to the party on Cornerstone, had chats on the way up. down in the dark but at like 9pm ish.

what an absolute MISSION this climb was. ever since seeing Dyl and Lee on it, the same time last year, we knew we had to Do it. it just looks at you when walking up from the carpark, its a must do for anyone brave enough. with Khush And Sam in the other pair, the 4 of us set off around 8am for the mega line climb of the weekend, with the hot sun coming up, it was going to be a long day. bashed around and finally found the start about 1030 I think. as Ashton wasn't leading I had to do every pitch, which was a struggle after a while, but well worth the push on. i was in front so some of the pitches I left gear in the climb for the others to lead on, which helped them, but made us all quiet slw together. first 4 or 5 were pretty good with the pitch 6 traverse being super exposed, I was told I took the line to high but except for the heinous drag, ended quite well. after that I think I did part of Pegesus, some sick corner finger crack, that Ashton really struggled on, but everything else was cruizy. until we got to the top in the dark and didn't remember where the rap was, took quite a while to figure out it was on the other summit. and then 1 hour turned to 2, then 4, then we were at camp at 2am. soo when you're out of water for 4 hours and not thinking too clearly, time just goes on. but all went physically well, and we got up the next day for another one!!

pretty good, Jordan got on his first lead for a while, then I finished the rest in a 55m and 15m pitch. after the epic the day before, getting off was super easy, and got back to camp at like 4pm.

always a good day out on the wall!! only a few pitches up and then called it but got Chloe back on the cliff and absiel practice. (for anyone else, first 3.5 pitches are all sport, bring 12 draws if you wanna link P2 & P3, couple of extenders too.

awesome hand crack, one for the learners. bit of thinking needed for the middle section with good jams to be found. khush gave it a red hot go, but still trying to work out the best way to jam for powerful moves and high foot steps.

I found this quite tricky for a warm up 13. gear was good but the techy feet and undercling moves felt hard

think its this one, old book is a little vague. middle climb, between both caves, easy lay backs

dont know if i got any FAs in this area, being so close to main walk. buuut is quite mossy, dirty and vegetated in crack

Pretty good route, still had a heap of snow at the belay that we had to walk across. Harder than 12 in sections but all good gear.

did this last pitch instead of finishing counterbalance, looked much better, and it delivered. the undercling flake is fun, good gear and solid.

great route, a couple of different methods used, but a while longer than anticipated, so only got the 1 multi done. did another pitch at the top, from Balance, well worth the variant finish.

nice but quite hard to find, this area is just massive boulders all piled on top, with lots of little caves and squeezes. starts at #6 and finishes on micros. Yes final move is quite hard, I definitely finished the route but the topout was the crux.

pretty cool ramp, that steepens. gear is fine but with flaring cracks at points.

khush had first lead, easy just getting back into it.

way out left of the crag, also pretty av but a couple of hard moves. tried to stay on the face as much as possible and make it tough for myself.

feels very forced, up through the middle of the slab, without using the jugs on either side. not the greatest, but may as well do the hard climb of the crag.

wasnt going to get on this one but Dyl convinced me with his pshyc to climb hard!! think this deserves more than one star even though I didnt finish it. great moves up through the roof up to the dyno. tried the dyno a few times and was close but didnt land it, then bailed off bolt. headwall above prob gives this climb the grade, looks techy AF. ill come back another time.

1 cam is definitely necessary, but could be changed to a sport climb.

pretty sick climb, first 2 P are great hard friction slabs, featured with crimp flakes. Third crux pitch was not a slab but some cool vert moves, locks and crimpies. last is standard blocky runouts.

just did something while we were there anyway.

an absolute stunner of a climb, which definitely makes up for the shit approach through the thick bush. 3 interesting pitches, P2 is super run out for sure buuuuut, its only like grade 12 so just dont look back till you make it to the ledge. khush started off well, then i finished the rest. got a nut stuck on P1 so i climbed up once we got to the bottom again, will be sure to return here, for the harder slabs PSA; Road will be open after winter!!!!!!!!

whoever graded this either has very small hands or doesn't know what 17 cracks should be, maybe it's just old-school 17 idk. It's mainly green size (which is too small) and pretty steep and it was getting late, so only got 3m up and decided to down lead the crack. also the walk-in and belays had snow so fingers were freezing.

ill come back in summer again and try these then.

pretty sweet line, this is for sure. couple of real hard locks i had to think about and placing gear in a rush while shaking and slipping out of a jam is always fun. real technique type operation it was, but seams like one of the only fairly graded hard cracks this place has to offer.

would say the grade of this is a bit easy. perfect jams and a bit slab off vert. did it in hiking boots and cruized up for first climb of the day.

Real cruizy type Operation here, just a meander up the slabs, but did break it up into 4 P so easy to see Chloe, she had a love/hate relationship with this one!! would smash out 3-4 of these with Dyl I reckon, if we rap on an 80m fixed line, and link/solo a lot of the easy slab sections.

faaaar out, this gets the heart racing with the position youre in. right from the rap down you are in free space. the belay is on two carrot bolts, feet hanging over the edge 50m above the crahing ocean. one of the scariest belay stations ive been on, needed a cam to back up the anchor, as the carrots just dont give full mind security, (found out after, dyl thinks one of the bolts is a bit loose!!!!! AHHHHHHHHH. climb is real short and pumpy, jugs for most of it, couple insecure jams thrown in there but its just the 10deg overhang and fulltime exposure that gets you goin.

super sick climb, very exposed traverse over a MMAASSSSIIVVEE drop. coming round the corner even on second is gnarly cool, love it!

could write a long story and the epic night that was had down on that cliff. with some close calls and some things not working out as expected. thought I tore my MLC again, 3m from the top, through a crux roof. still dislocated (heard a pop) but ended up being ok, not too serious, more annoyed I didnt get the route clean and had to aid the last couple metres.

did non direct 4 years ago, so dont remember it, this starts much lower and first half is all sport, again, great exposure up the left side of the wall and finishing on the arate withy a few cool moves.

Khush had a good lead on this one, getting used to the jamming techniques and placing gear in crack systems while hanging on a jam. I ran up on second in hiking boots

what an unreal line, this place is one of my favourite crags in AUS. there is soo much variation in routes, with heaps of cracks and face climbs, but the mega exposure and overhangs, straight to the sea deck is what makes this place sooo spectacular. I mean, seeing whales, dolpins and seals all within 300m of the cliff is a glorious scene in itself.

Not really worth the walk out here, but if you must do the whole crag at once. Maybe ok for a very first time leader, 6m crack

Big gear, single rusty bolt on top

This thrutch fest is harder than it looks

First time using #0 RP leading, very small gear on top half.

First lead of the day, pretty harsh rock, can’t stem with that angle of rock

Quite a hard start for a 16,but once you’re up on the wall its good. #5 for start would be good

great mission with the whole crew up this thing. was going to do an 8 person simul train up, but decided best not to, with some of the guys being their first Bungles climb here. was a full day and got back late, but its only a true trad mission if youre back at camp in darkness, with the moon lighting your way home.