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An absolutely epic route!
Climbed with Danny who has already posted a detailed account of our accent, so won't repeat what he has already said. Would thoroughly recommend to anyone who wants an epic and unforgettable day out, however, due to the length and nature of this route this probbaly isn't the best route to do you if don't have much multipitch trad experience!
In terms of gear we took double set of cams (.3 to 4), set of nuts (although defiantly didn't need them as only placed about 3 including one over a carrot) and 18 draws + extenders and anchor gear. We went with a twin ropes as wasn't to sure how much choss there would be, and also helped to reduce drag when linking pitches.
Apart from dropping my ATC and a bit of wind and water at top of climb we didn't encounter too many difficulties.
Most of the gear we placed was bomber, however had many foot and hand holds pop throughout the route! Overall the climb was fairly easy to navigate and anchors were obvious.
My favourite pitch was pitch 10 which had some insane exposer! Pitch 6 and 7 (which we linked) were also great.
The whole climb took us about 10 hours and the whole day from car to car was just over 15 hours, however, our approach was definitely prolonged by getting lost.
Cheers to everyone that helped bolt and open this epic route! Definitely not a climb that I am going to forget!
Really nice route with good quality rock and plenty of gear. Definitely take an extra #2(yellow) cam or 2 as you often need at least one in the belays.
Tried to link first two pitches to get some more climbing in, so lowered off after a long traverse to toprope these two pumpy sustained pitches. Ended up by climbing the last pitches of sweet dreams.
Generally a nice climb. Definitely reachy for shorties. Probably doesn’t climb as nicely for those under 175cm. Crux beginning but chill climb afterwards.