Vias em Exhibition Wall

Nice direct finish to Exhibition Wall - clean and a little more exciting but not bold. Up EW for about 5 FHs then straight up wall just right of arete via a single ring, and a couple of solid medium cams in horizontals. Carrot belay over the top - walk off to exit.

"Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!" Sport climbers guidebook. "Champagne climbing.." Bold climbers comment.

Up EW for about 7 FHs then straight up the wall via some gear? and a bolt.

Either a visionary piece of bolting, or the start of a slippery slope depending on perspective. Birth of sport climbing in the Blueies. Originally homemade fixed hangers, has since been rebolted on huge, shiny mass-manufactured fixed hangers!

The long awaited direct version of EW and who would have guessed that it would be a trad line ??

Start at EW, up and right as for DF via cam breaks and optional RPs. At third break head straight up to EW rest ledge (or lower right ledge for DF) and finish up EW with large RPs for pro. Belay over the top on medium cams.

Small cams, small wires, RPs/Offsets.

A visionary piece of non-bolting to end the slippery slope...

Up to break then up and right on crimps to next break. Continue up slightly left of RTS third ring then up and right above AOR third bolt to small ledge. Up and right following subtle flake then up finishing left of tree.

Cams, RPs/Offsets, Small Wires. Belay off medium cams in wall over the top.

Very thin and technical. Used to have only 2 carrots. The line of rings beneath EW, joining Exhibition Wall halfway. The retrobolt still retains the need for small slcd's.

Perhaps not...? Definitely! Once a test piece, now forgotten, and even more testing. Take micro to medium cams, wires and optional sling for a dubious thread. Thin, technical, unprotected start eases off eventually...

Up left to slight horizontal weakness then right across to good gear in horizontal, harder direct start possible. Up via breaks and gear. Boulder blank wall and left to breaks, then up easier grade finish. Direct finish possible via clean streak, or easier to right of groove. Belay possible on small wall over the top.

Definitely perhaps ... A far more sociable version of the route. Alternate easier highball start to AoR via SF on right side of wall. Up as for SF to break and traverse left to good gear at left of break as for first gear on AoR. Continue up following breaks then up. Cams and wires. Optional sling.

Start pretty much as for SF, on face left of SF mark avoiding fragile flake arête as much as possible. Get good first gear on left at first main break. At second break instead of heading R on bolts (SF) head up to cam pod and up following obvious crease. Climbing eases towards top. Either runout or various snall/medium RPs or similar and medium and small cams. Offsets in both may help.

Route and gear placements sussed out on abseil, and climb TR'd a number of times before finally being lead. Feel free to improve on style but be careful!

Note: 2015 BM guide topo is incorrect. The line shown for SF is actually this line.

Start on right edge of wall at mark.

Up face, avoiding rather fragile thin flake edge, to break and first gear then continue up to next break before heading right and up following carrots with good #000 C3's instead Up to to break and gear; old school opposed wires or even just a hex. Continue up using as many small brass nuts as you can place to avoid needing the top two bolts.

Has be done just on gear as described after gear inspection and rehearsal, but feel free to improve on this. Bolts are in fine condition (2016) and this climb should not ever be retro bolted.

Note: Topo in 2015 BM guide is wrong, see 2010 edition instead.

Start as for SF, marked. Up to traverse then left across wall passing AoR to bolt then up to fixed hanger then bolt and traverse L to EW rest ledge and finish up EW.

Start as for Age of Rubber. Follow till bolts but ignore them, if possible, heading right to gear at third bolt and finishing up DF. Possible to use a high gear placement on Age of Reason to avoid runout. Cams, wires, RPs and optional sling.

Choss corner to arete, right side of the wall.

start on the arete below Ferny Groove up arete past 2 bolts, then up the steep bit of Ferny Groove (cams). step left and up arete past bolts to lower off

Traverse in the best of British tradition!

Start: As for RG then left and left again!

Dirty crack to rooflet.

Start: About 5m up Obstacle Course 'Gully' on the left side.

Exactly!

Start: 7m LEFT of TDotSPF.

Not well(?) protected!

Start: 20m right of the gully. Up an a ledge 20m above the track.

An apt name! Apparently better than it looks.

Start: Corner 2m right.

Start: Up the corner for 10m. 5m right of previous climb.

Layback an off width.

Start: 2m right again.

Still off the ledge.

Start: 1m right again.

Start: 27m right of PF. Chimney - chockstones and a bucket that was rusty in 1974!

Chimney!

Start: 4m right again.

Aided by Glenn Robbins, had numerous free attempts over a 5 year period.

Start: 17m right.Marked.

"Only Joe could ever concieve a route up here. A fine companion to 'Apollo' at 'Sublime Point'. Dont forget to take a plastic bucket and shovel, you'll need them."

Start: As for TMO.

Ramble up to ledge, across to corner and up.

Start: 20m right of TMO, right side of the sandy cave.

Start: 38m right again. Wide crack. Name spells it out for you!

Another Joe Friend classic - take care!

Start: As for SHSB.

As for SHSB to traverse line of B. Ignore traverse, up wall past bolt to top.

Start: As for SHSB.

The overhanging offwidth 20m to the left of the 'nothings'. Marked. Big nuts and jammed helmets!