Ajuda

Ghidrah

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 1
  • Ascensões: 12
8
AU

Sazonalidade

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Descrição

The most powerful, the most mysterious monarch in all the world. Guarded by a fighting force that never sleeps, That never relaxes its vigilance. For none is as feared, none has as many foes as.....

Questões de acesso herdado de Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Ética herdado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

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Please contact if you find the location of this cliff.

Built from the ground up by a malevolent child.

A cliff splitting crack that passes through three roofs and some sporty moves. Three bolts keep things sane, but you'll still need a double rack in the finger to hand sizes. A few nuts and hexes can supplement as needed.

Can be climbed as a mega pitch with some serious drag, or split at a semi hanging belay after the difficulties and below the final roof if you want to see the second.

The route starts from the major ledge underneath an obvious crack in the low roof. Trad anchor in the crack and or stick clip the first bolt to avoid consequential falls from the opening moves.

  1. 30m (21) Suck it up and commit to some powerful sporty moves out of the opening roof with two bolts and gear to the delicate thin crack (crux). Follow this up through two breaks to the shale break and final bolt. Pull the roof and over into a stance and semi-hanging belay.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the widening crack up into a few chimney moves to escape the final roof (all gear). Follow the crack system as it becomes increasingly easy and chossy to a final large cave (belay possible) or continue to the rap anchors and belay from here.

FA: Gavin, Clare, Will & Paul Frothy Thomson, May 2024

Gabara is a Kaiju that doesn't actually exist -except in the mind of a child, as the monstrous manifestation of his real-world bully. Heavy stuff, indeed.

A proud-looking left leaning seam crack with oodles of exposure, and very sporty steep cruxes. Starts on a small ledge above the main ledge (access by ascending a short fixed rope).

Bring a full rack 0.3-3, wires, and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75.

  1. 30m (23) A hard start through the roof (feel free to build a cairn if you can't reach the first holds), then powerful moves past 3 bolts to gain the crack proper. This is followed by technical and varied gr21/22 crack/face climbing to a bolted belay below a huge roof.

  2. 15m (23) Up to the big roof past 2 bolts, punch through it, then powerful moves to turn the lip. After this, moderate technical face climbing on gear leads to a good ledge and bolted belay. This pitch can easily be combined into the next one.

  3. 10m (16) Up the face with spaced gear to ledge. Belay bolts at the back of the ledge.

FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Match, 1 May

A giant mutated bird. Pronounce the name with a Japanese accent whilst doing the crux moves for full value. Long draws good + at least two single length sling runners. Starts off the middle of the middle ledge. Short powdered wall start to small dirty ledge - then swing out roof leftwards (chain permadraw) then up long sustained face. The hardest stuff is in the first 20m but there are still some things to think about up there somewhere. Belay on small ledge about 20m below the top of the cliff - scramble off to the left as per standard exit (ropes/rungs/radness etc).

"Render unto ghirdrah's, what is ghidrah's"

The King of the Three Monster pitches.

A punchy Roof boulder start (The first ascensionist ripped off the jug and decked after the FA) leads to endless climbing on the excellent orange rock into the technical flake and mono crux.

Pack 30 quickdraws and an optional red cam or green cam. longer draws after the flake crux greatly reduce the drag.

Can also be climbed from the crimps at the lip of the roof at grade 24.

FA: Mitchell Stewart, 7 Mar

Take me to your leader.

Multipitch adventure - described by first ascentist as "I think there's a few scary runout bits in the middle that I thought might spice it up. And a hard move at the bottom- I'd rapped from the top so I might have cheated with some extended draws at the start. I remember the glue wasn't really dry on the first few bolts so I might have tied them off to the rap rope "just in case"! Probably worth bringing some trad as well then! Starts up black arete (ubolts and rusty carrots). Grade is suspect until further repeats.

Olá!

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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Mon 29 May
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