Ajuda

Lower Cliff

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 6
  • Ascensões: 29
12

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Descrição

The main face below the clifftop. Routes vary from ~70m to ~100m in length.

Routes described left to right

Questões de acesso herdado de Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Acesso

A complex series of abseils from below the main cave (the Upper Cliff).

Ética herdado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

Closed Project.

  1. 45m (24)

  2. 25m (21)

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

  1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

  2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

  3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

Closed Project

Closed Project.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.2, #0.3, #3, #4, and Doubles of #0.4 to #2.

  1. 40m (25) - Bolt, #2, #2, #0.5, #0.3, Bolt, #1, #0.75 + #0.2, #1 + #0.75, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.4, #0.5 to 2 Bolt anchor.

  2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #1, #0.4, and 4 Bolts to 2 Bolt anchor.

  3. 15m (18)

A steep uber exposed line up the steepest section of the wall

With not a single bad pitch and bolted belays. It highlights that we are only scratching the surface of climbing development in this area and there is plenty of lines for the Rookies of the Future.

P1 - 17 15m

P2 - 22 20m

P3 - 20 20m (my favourite pitch)

P4 - 22 33m

P5 - 18 30m

FFA: Match & Paul Frothy Thomson, 18 Dec 2022

A gymnastic alternative to Pitch 4 of Passion in Progress, taking the line directly through the roof crack above the belay. Very strenuous and gymnastic. Originally climbed ground-up. #1 cam (out left) in a shallow horizontal, then #0.75, #2, #2, #1, #0.75, #0.4 to Bolt belay.

FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Gavin & Simmo, 12 Mar 2023

Significantly harder than its righthand neighbour.

As for Gaze a Gazely Stare to the #3 Cam slot above its 3rd bolt, then take the lefthand line.

Gaze, then: Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #0.3, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.3, #1, #0.3, #.75, Bolt, #1.

Entry level at the grade -but very involved, despite the objectively soft grading.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #4; 3 x #3; 4 x #1; and at least 7 Long Runners.

  1. 45m (26) - Gear in Order: Bolt + LR, #0.3 + #2 + XLR, Bolt + LR, #1, #3 (Optional), Bolt, #3, #0.5 (Optional), Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #4 (Optional), #1 + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + XLR, #1 (Optional), #0.4, #0.75/#1 (Optional), #3, Bolt, to 2 Bolt anchor.

  2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and Bolt anchor.

Climbed ground-up in some extremely wet conditions.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #4, a single 0.2 and set of wires.

  1. 25m (18)

  2. 20m (20) - Save a 0.2 cam for the thin crack at the top! Originally climbed on the face to the left as 21R.

  3. 30m (18)

  4. 15m (10) - Continue doddling up the easy crack trending left. This pitch can be linked into the next one (or even the 6th pitch if you want). Originally climbed by taking a rightward line on jugs through the roof above the belay at 22R.

  5. 15m (12)

  6. 15m (10)

A proper long and overhanging monster. The money pitch is 65m long, and overhangs more than 20m!!! Surely there isn't much like that in the Blueys at the grade? Suffice to say, you will get pumped.

Rock quality is Bell-esque, so adjust stars accordingly.

  1. 65m (27) - Intimidating! 11 bolts to join Gaze a Gazely stare just above the roof, then continue upwards forever. Strategic long/giant runners, and roller biners essential ! See Gaze for necessary rack for this pitch.

  2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and bolt belay.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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