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Mostrando os 70 vias.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Popularidade
Slab World Spider wall
18 Potato Thrower

Up tending left following the streak to bulge at top. 4 U bolts to Ring / U anchor

FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002

Sport 12m, 4
17 Fosters Buckets

A bit runout at top. Up following white orange groove. 3 U bolts to Ring / U bolt anchor

FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002

Sport 12m, 3
Slab World Main Wall
18 Knuckles

4m right of CR.

Line of ring bolts up orange streak finishing at double rings above bulge.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2001

Sport 10m, 3
17 Elmocize

Line of ring bolts on left side of 'Arete', finishing up WW on slab. 4 ring bolts + DRBB

FA: Rod Wills, 2002

Sport 10m, 4
17 Communal Fisting

Hard start jamming up crack, getting easier after the second bolt to shared anchors

FFA: Rod wills, 2013

Sport 9m, 3
18 Another Fine Product From The Nonsense Factory

1m rt of AGS, balance and smear up tricky slab and then layback to glory.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

Sport 12m, 4
The Heights Purgatory Wall
17 Pebbles in fear

To the left of ABD with DBB on the top. Easily accessible for top roping. Crux is near the start then through jugs and pockets. Boulders left and right of the route are out.

Top rope 6m
18 Totally Testicular

2m rt of S, over small overlap over the sloppy nose to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

Sport 8m, 3
The Heights Bull Ant Wall
18 Frenzal Rhomb

Up 2 RB to shared lower offs with 'Forever Malcom Young'

Start: 1 meter left of 'Forever Malcom Young'

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2006

Sport 8m, 2
18 Probalator

Steepish terrain on good holds to the right of small cave. Crux move after second bolt, keeping off large boulder on the right. 2 bolts + DBB.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2000

Sport 8m, 2
18 The Hollow Chocolate Bunnies of the Apocolypse

Around the corner up right side of cave,Up right side of the big cave, traversing left above lip of cave. 6 bolts + DBB.

FA: rod wills, 2004

Sport 12m, 6
17 Solution One

2m rt of THCBOTA. Straight up slabby bulge. 3 bolts + DBB

FA: kevin van tilburg, 2004

Sport 8m, 3
Norton's Basin West Side Crag
18 Arrival
Trad 12m
18 It's a Fine Line
Trad 10m
17 Pain
Trad 10m
17 False Start
Trad 15m
18 Red Hot
Trad 15m
18 CK
Trad 12m
18 Ribald Rebellion
Trad 7m
Norton's Basin East Side Crag
17 Nepean Belle
Trad 20m
17 Kerridancer
Trad 12m
Norton's Basin Riverside Crag
18 Out for a Duck
Trad 12m
Lapstone Confluence The Lost Woods
18 Korok Climb

Sections of thin, technical slabbing. Climb direct up the line of the bolts (don't stray towards the crack, or too far right) with a few tough moves.

Set: Philip Barker, 1 Jan

FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 3 Feb

Sport 15m
Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Upper)
18 Jasper's Jaunt
1 16 25m
2 18 20m

An adventurous line offering panoramic views of Glenbrook Gorge and the Nepean. Mostly bomber but belayers beware loose rock. Bring ten draws including a few alpines.

  1. 25m (16) Slab to hidden rail under roof, left onto ledge, behind boulder, up enormous flake to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (18) Peculiar moves from boulder to face. Identify reliable holds and pull up and right through crux. Through gap then stem up final corner to ledge. Can belay here, but remain roped up for slippery scramble to rap chains a few metres above.

To exit walk down faint path on right starting about 10m away from cliff edge. Alternatively, a 70m dynamic rope reaches the ground from the rap chains with stretch - use a rope protector at the lip (same deal if top roping).

Set: John & Philip Barker, 5 Jul 2023

FFA: John & Christian Pilarcik, 8 Jul 2023

Sport 45m, 2, 17
Lapstone Confluence Right Side
17 Easy Street

Easy looking crack. Don't be fooled! DRB anchors, can walk off.

Set: Greg Ducky

Trad 10m
Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Lower)
18 Psych In

Several broken holds at the starting boulder problem have upped the direct start grade significantly, so it is now linked into the start of 'Psych out'. Downgraded to meet the new route. Will update when new beta for the direct start is sorted out.

Set: Philip Barker

FA: Philip Barker, 15 Apr 2023

Sport 20m, 8
Glenbrook Gorge South-Eastern Wall
17 Pig's Bladder

At the very left end of the main area/cliff, short grey and orange wall at middle of large rock platform, with broken blocks at start. Up wall, BR.

FA: T Williams, 1985

Trad 25m
18 Unknown sport route

Originally thought to be Stone Mason, but turns out it's not. Please claim if you bolted this route. 2 stainless carrots to ledge. Two further carrots to DBB. Really fun climb on surprisingly good rock. Could use a name, grade and info from FA.

Sport 14m, 5
18 R Master Blaster

Twin water-streaked black wall with large turpentine tree at middle of base ledge, start 2m left of tree, directly below triangular orange patch. Good route up impressive black wall. Long leadouts with minimum protection makes it a serious lead. Up wall to groove, left to line of holds, to detached block then to break, right to water streak (crux). Cams needed.

FA: W Moon & F Moon, 1980

Trad 50m
18 Master Blaster Direct Start

Up short overhanging groove to PR, join MB.

FA: W. Moon, R. McMahon & N. Smith, 1982

Trad 50m
18 R Past Masters

As for MB to horizontal break. No protection, exposed. Good climbing. Left and up thin wall/slab.

FA: W Moon & B Moon, 1982

Trad 50m
18 M0 R Black Jack

Just right of Jack Murphy's Climb, just left of orange streak. Steep and exposed. Protection down low is inadequate. A serious and dangerous lead. Up rotten corner, right to ramp, use BR as hand hold, leave ramp to good black rock and 3 BRs to small chain belay at ledge. Abseil off tree.

FA: B Cameron & F Moon, 1993

Trad 30m
18 Blank Mank

Corner 5m right of TV, immediately below a pair of Angophoras. A fair climb following the longest natural line on the cliff.

  1. 10m Up roof.

  2. 20m Up to roof, along roof to alcove, into layback corner, up right to ledge.

  3. 20m Follow easiest line heading to base of black chimney. Belay.

  4. 40m Into chimney/crack, good exposed climbing to top.

  5. 10m Broken rock to top.

FA: B Cameron & T Williams, 1980

FFA: T. Williams, 1983

Trad 100m, 5
18 Master Blaster DS

Up short overhanging groove to PR, join MB.

FA: W Moon, R McMahon & N Smith, 2000

Trad 50m
Glenbrook Gorge Main Wall
17 Paradise

Direct start is to the left, a thin crack about 17. An enjoyable climb but not much protection down low. Up as for PPR for 5m then left via small bulge to corner, then to black wall, straight up to FH (crux) and on to DBB.

FA: B Cameron & M Chapman, 1982

Trad 25m
18 Puddin Puller

Left corner in squarish gully that has a Bloodwood at top of middle or rear wall of gully. Scramble/climb to top of fused pedestal. An excellent climb up steep crack and corner. Poor protection at start. Right to thin crack/bulge, up to join twin thin cracks, up corner to tree belay.

FA: B Cameron & R McMahon, 1980

Trad 25m
18 Fiddle

Several metres to right of PP. Nice down low. Up slab to BR, thin flake to join SC at 'V' roof.

FA: B Cameron & F Moon, 1986

Trad 25m
18 Bonk

Thin cracks and steps around right of SC. Harder than it looks. Limited protection. Up the steps, limited protection.

FA: W Moon & B Cameron, 1982

Trad 35m
17 Comes a Time

Thinnish crack a few metres left of KC. A PR can be seen about 4 metres up. Reasonable. Up crack, over huge loose block, right up wall passing 3 BRs to join KC.

FA: B Cameron & F Moon, 1982

Trad 30m
17 Camoon Corner

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Right side of overhanging corner with huge white roof, immediately above recent rockfall! The middle of this climb is now on the river bed. Take care!

  1. Up steep wall BR to 2 PR, right to arete.

  2. Up corner (could be harder now with lower section missing).

FA: F Moon & B Cameron, 1982

Trad 35m
18 Tangerine Dream

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. In orange alcove about 15 metres right of CC. Rotten cave just left of start. Great climbing up an interesting line. Up alcove/crack, left around small roof (small wires needed) up good crack. Up nose/crack then left to black corner. Tree belay.

FA: T Williams & B Cameron, 1982

Trad 25m
17 Ripsnorta

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Look for thin Casuarina tree that is up against rock. Deep red flake is behind top of this tree. Climb is directly under Tunnel View Lookout. One of the more popular routes in the Gorge. Varied climbing on good rock with good protection. Up short wall behind Casuarina tree, to flake, right to wall then corner and up over roof to tree. Abseil off tree.

FA: T Williams & B Cameron, 1981

Trad 30m
18 Wanton Winging

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. A fine line flawed by sections of poor rock. 1. 25m As for Ripsnorta then right across ledge to tree. 2. 35m Up nice orange arete, through rubble then through roof.

FA: T Williams & S McDowell, 1981

Trad 60m
18 Eric Bloodaxe

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. "Like a drunken Viking, it could either do you in or fall down of its own accord." 1. 25m As for Ripsnorta. 2. 10m Right to flake and up to ledge. 3. 25m Up corner to unusual suspended block. Around this with care then right through roof and up to tree belay.

FA: T Williams & L Closs, 1981

Trad 60m
18 Gormenghast

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. 5m right of Ripsnorta, immediately below Ripsnorta's upper corner. A strong line on left margin of buttress. 1. 12m Up to ledge, right to base of yellow corner. 2. 24m Up corner past block, swing left to belay as for Ripsnorta.

FA: T Williams & S Moon, 1981

Trad 36m
18 Sepulchre Start to Gormenghast

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Loose roof just right of normal start of Gormenghast, rotten wall below. Not recommended! Up crack with extreme care.

FA: T Williams & R McMahon, 1982

Trad 10m
18 Gunhilda

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Details vague but apparently goes through noxious roof 10m left of RR, then line obvious. Strong, independent line right of Eric Bloodaxe, with committing (unprotected) moves down low.

FA: T Williams & A Teague, 1982

Trad 55m
18 Remote Reaches

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Thin corner with black and red roof, about 35 metres right of R. A fine line, could use more protection. 1 and 2. 35m Up to top of corner, diagonally right across black wall then trend left on poor rock past PR, some rope drag. Belay on loose ledge.

  1. 10m Up steep cracks to top, obvious exit crack seen from ground.

FA: T Williams & A Teague, 1981

Trad 45m
Glenbrook Gorge Lower Cliffline
18 R Controversy Corner

Poor Protect. Start: Sharp corner directly below second pitch of Annelid Crack behind three thin trees

FA: F Moon & B Cameron, 1979

Trad 12m
17 R One Perfect Day

Some good moves but no protection. Start: on black wall just right of Controversy Corner. 1: up from blocks then black wall, up centre.

FA: B Cameron, 1986

Trad 12m
18 R Last Grasp

Fun, but not much protection. Start: rotten looking groove on nose. Cave at 1/2 height.

FA: T Williams, N Smith & R McMahon, 1982

Trad 10m
17 Pox

Start: left of double cracks up sort of nose. Small sandy cave at bottom.

FA: W Moon & J Smoothy, 1980

Trad 12m
17 Artist's Crack

Some good jambing. Start: right of double cracks. 2m left of large Blood wood.

FA: W Moon & P Chalkley, 1980

Trad 10m
Glenbrook Gorge Upper Cliffline
17 Twentieth Century

Up arete left of Ape Flake, clip bolt with stick, BB.

FA: R Le Breton & A Mason, 1985

Trad 10m
17 Crack of Value

1m right of Ape Flake. A nice little climb, finger locks all the way. Up crack. Tree belay.

FA: W Moon, F Moon & B Cameron, 1982

Trad 16m
17 Chicken in a Casket

Roof/crack/blocks above abseil tree above S ie four-pronged Bloodwood. "Best be a chicken, and you won't finish up in a casket!" Up the horror show.

FA: T Williams, 1984

Trad 10m
Glenbrook Gorge North-Western Wall
18 Dog

As for VM, start in cave. "It's bound to bite you!" Scramble up from rock platform near LR. Out along roof, lip, crack to tree.

FA: W Moon & B Cameron, 1980

Trad 8m
Glenbrook Gorge Boulders River Blocs
V0+ Smoked Sprats

The first problem on the LHS of the Sprat Boulder - over shallow water, take care

Boulder 3m
High Voltage Mini Cliff
V0+ Gout legs

North end of the mini cliff, slight over hang down low and with the crux establishing feet above that.

Boulder 4m
Steep City Heather Gully Owl Roost Twisted Tree The Crèche
VB- - 0+ Not a Toddler Anymore

Small line up obvious features on the left side of the downside of Crèche boulder.

How do I delete this route???

FA: SiennaBelle Parer, 2013

Boulder 2m
Backyard Basic
17 Black Max

Great crimpy wall on good edges until the top flake that isn't as good as you hope.

Set: Ben JengA., 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

Sport 7m, 6
18 MoBe.

Super top moves that require a bit of thinking and crimping.

Set: Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

Sport 6m, 5
17 Sand wedge.

The right glue in carrot route, details unknown? Funk up the steep start to an easy finish. Home to one of the best holds on the wall.

Sport 9m, 5
Booker Jam wall
18 unknown

Far left on the wall starting on the face then moving left then up. 2 carrot bolts. 1st is a bit high.

Sport 11m, 2
17 point break

On the rounded nose left of 'Pump up the jam'. Get past the cave by propping up off boulder.

Top rope 8m
18 Toe Jam

Up crack right side of bulge slab. Layback start. Reachy balanced top moves. Lots of fun with some cool holds and footwork.

FA: Guru, 30 Jun 2014

Top rope 8m
18 book it in

Cool climbing hard moves pinching and crimping

FA: Guru, 6 Jun 2014

Top rope 8m
18 Horn dog

Up crack left of 'random climb'. Easy start with a forest of holds to the 2 horns. Thins out slightly with some balancy moves, keep pumping through. 2 carrot bolts. Can be done as a sport, mixed trad or top rope route.

FFA: Guru

FA: 30 Jun 2014

Mixed trad 8m, 2
17 Random climb

One meter left of old pumpy, fun features and some cool moves

Top rope 8m
18 old pumpy

Starting in the little cut out in wall climb using tiny cave. Some good pumpy moves to the top. Stick the gaston up the shallow vertical crack or bail right for a lower grade.

Top rope 8m

Mostrando os 70 vias.

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