Mostrando os 10 nodes.
Node |
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Choc Chip Chai Sector
The first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams). |
12 R
Pawn's Leap
Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge. Apparently an excellent hangover climb or relaxing afternoon, back in the day.
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16
ES
Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay. Grade is a total guess. Anyone repeated this? |
20
★★ Choc Chip Chai
A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. |
21
★★ Vlad the Invader
Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag. |
12
★ Defaecation
Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss. Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.
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12 R
Defecation Direct Start
Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse. Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route. |
21
Caractacus
An old aid route now free. Major line on the right side of alcove with appalling choss at the start. The steep corner crack on the third pitch is the good bit. Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.
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11
★ Queen's Shift
1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway? Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.
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21
★★ Little Jug of Happiness
A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.
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Mostrando os 10 nodes.