Nodes em The Sporting Complex

A fantastic morning out. Rap in-climb out.

This area is located on private property owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel. Access could be removed at any time. Please respect the land.

If you want, it is possible to do all the routes off the ledge. You will need a 60m rope or longer. All the routes start off the same small dirt ledge, so it can be cosy if more than one group is here.

The sun hits the crag at about 1:30pm in summer.

Great sustained face climbing. Better than you might think from appearances.

Start as for P1 of Being and Nothingness: Up the easy slab a few metres left of Life of Riley, left at ledge, then up via technical and steep face moves to first anchor (optional loweroff/rebelay here). Now up, trending left via pockets and slopers, to easier finish at top of cliff.

Optional topout anchors are located back from the edge, if doing this route to exit the crag.

This route has recently been re-jigged by the FA. The lower pitch is now the easiest route here, and surprisingly great climbing. The upper pitch has had some bolt positions moved, and a broken pocket repaired, and consists of some wild cranking.

1. 25m (21) Start up the easy slab a few metres left of Life of Riley. Left at ledge, then up via technical and steep face moves to first anchor.

2. 12m (25) Trend right to vibrant orange streak over the void. Very hard moves up pockets in the streak (easier with small fingers) to a fun pocketed finale.

NOTE: THIS ROUTE HAS BEEN CHOPPED BY THE FA AND IS NO LONGER CLIMBABLE. This historical route will remain listed here for the sake of the existing ascents.

Super-sustained climbing, tackling the most intense bits of Being and Nothingness and Buckley's Chance on the best rock.

Start up Life of Riley and continue up Buckley's Chance. Put a long sling on the 10th bolt (where the corner arches back right), step left and put a long sling on the bolt under the rooflet of Being and Nothingness, and blast up the mega headwall with increasing difficulty to a final reachy and very committing finale.

Long sweet wall route with no shale bands or ledges. Start up Life of Riley for two bolts then break left and up face. At 8th bolt step left into major corner feature (vegetated). Stem up this for a few metres then finish up juggy headwall to join into Life Of Riley at last bolt. 14 bolts in total.

The grand classic of this wall. One of the best routes of this style in the mountains. Rebolted 2004.

Rebolted 2004, and much appreciated. However, be aware that the first bolt was moved lower, unfortunately into some very hollow rock.

Start: Start where the abseil lands you.

Start up Smoko, at the 2nd bolt head directly R to the 1st bolt on Leviathan, then up via power-crimping moves to gain the black streak that runs the length of this wall. Follow the black streak around the first steep flake, and up the wall staying between Smoko and GABDUY through the surprisingly steep final bulge (moving slightly R up the flake to gain a series of pockets, then back L up the line of bolts) to topout on top of the boulder.

Can be climbed easily and more pleasantly in one long pitch - take several very long runners.

1. 15m (19). As for LACS, belaying on triangular foot ledge on the arete.

2. 20m (24). Directly up arete (as for up LACS pitch 2 past two FHs) then, where LACS's FHs trend R, head a little left and up following rings to finish on the right side of the block above the bulge, where anchors/loweroffs have been installed.

Exposed and exciting. Do not try and combine the pitches.

1. 15m (21) Step R and up off the ledge, then follow the traverse line 5m R to near the arete. Up face on jugs, then step R to finish on the arete on triangular foot ledge. DBB.

2. 20m (21) Follow the RBs up, then hard R under overlap (some long runners helpful) to super exposed arete conclusion. Belay on small ledge. To exit either climb up another 7m to rings just below the summit, or traverse off right past clusterf&*k of anchor bolts on the mystery route. Either way stay roped up.

About 5m R of p2 of LaCS is a mystery rap-in climb-out bolted route where every bolt has both a ring and a crap bolt right next to each other. Fix a rope to the top anchor (there is 5 of them!) and rap down to tiny ledge stance about 25m down. Anyone know any info about this route?