Vias em Flake Crack Area

Up past difficult mantle then up right to break. Traverse right to edge of arete then up to top passing several carrots on the way. Belay just below top out on stainless carrots. Belay leader from top belay to rap chains for Angular Crack.

Re-bolted with stainless glue in carrots in 2016.

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney',

Start as for TW to break. Up staying left of the arete.

Start as for TW. Then up and left.

Start 2m left of TW.

Blocky corner 3m left of TW. More popular as a rap line than a route, and probably rightly so.

Start 3m left of AC. Up thin crack and arete for about 12m until the crack disappears, then up wall past two bolts to ledge. Clip the first bolt off this ledge and step left to finish up On Edge. Three carrot bolts and trad + a ring or two on On Edge if climbing the route this way. Rebolted 26/5/2012.

Climbs the crack then the top head wall above. 6 bolt brackets for the climb and 2 for the anchor. Rebolted 26/5/2012.

Start above AC.

Start 3m left of HB.

Stunning technical arete 2m left of GW. Bolts are spaced and can be supplemented with cams (#2 & #3 Camalot).

Start 2m left of On Edge. Old carrots but eminently convenient to TR now that Flake Crack has got lower-offs.

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge. Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added 2016.

Not good. Start at chain on Faith.

The corner crack 4m left of Flake Crack.

1. 15m Up corner to chains.

2. 15m Left up corner and gully.

3. 22m Walk left, up into chimney.

Starts as for Faith P2, go to second bolt, then step down and traverse left until half way across the wall. Up flakes.

The arete 2m left of Faith. Minimal gear.

Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

Start 2m left of Hope. Slab climbing up orange face between Hope and Charity. Step right and finish on Hope when it gets hard. Direct finish is much harder.

Start 2m left of Sincerity. The wide crack in the corner - take big cams. Double hangers with rings lower off at the top.

Start from belay 1 of Charity.

1. 17m (23) Traverse left. Up, around arete and up to ledge.

2. 19m (-)

Start from TOtG belay 1. Traverse right out of cave, to flake, ledge.

As for Charity for 10m, left to flake, left to cave.

Pumpy. Up Charity to obvious traverse line. Hand traverse left past a bolt about half way, to bolt on wall. Up to cave and lower offs or head on up past two more pitches.

Start 2m left of Charity.

Start 4m L of C (marked below fixed hanger). Stick clip fixed hanger then thin balancy moves up and slight left to hand traverse ledge. Hand traverse left past bolts and up to medium cam placements on arete, then easily up and right past another cam to cave and rap chain.

Undercut arete 6m left of Charity. (Marked TGSDS). Stick clip. Old carrots.

You can rap off after pitch 1 (traverse 8m L to tree) for an awesome 1 pitch outing. Start 8m left of RC.

1. 21m (19) A brilliant pitch. Corner, through roof and up to tree/ledge.

2. 9m (-) Traverse right to blocks.

3. 18m (-) Wall.

4. 21m (19) Up the weakness to ledge. Left and up.

Start 3m left of Forward. 3 pitches.

Bulging diagonal 3m left of Preface.

1. Up and left to ledge and new Prologue P1 DRBB.

2. Originally described as "16 Sustained. A grand pitch." Up the fine square corner directly above Prologue P1 with plenty of gear and rests to tree on left.

3. Rap off belay tree or bash up Prologue final gully.

Start as for Introduction then left across wall and up. One wire at the start then all carrots.

Start 3m left of Introduction.

1. Thin corner crack.

2. Thin cracks on left arete of Introduction (right side of Addendum groove?)

3. Bash up Prologue final gully.

Start 1m left of E. The start was previously described as "ungradeable" and the whole pitch is more like 15.

1. 8m (11) Crack to ledge with new DRBB directly above. Original route continues 5m up and right across grey slabs to R side of cave.

2. 21m (11) Corner to cave, left up to big cave. Traverse right (old BR) and up to ledge.

3. 21m (11) Left along ledge, up small black wall into gully filled with dead trees and dirt.

4. 23m (11) Up.

Thin corner 2m left of Prologue.

1. 8m (15) Up to tree.

2. 21m (15) Left side of groove to bush.

3. 18m (15) Left and up to bollard.

4. 13m (-) Up.

Start 2m left of A.

1. 15m (18) Up thin crack then straight over bulge to tree.

2. 20m (18) Follow 'Ballrace' to end of its P1 (threaded slings in rock), over roof to ledge.

3. 15m (-) Up.

3 pitches. Crack 1m left of Kim.

Start 1m left of B. Arete and wall.

Arete 8m left again.

1. 15m (23) Crack to arete.

2. 20m (16) Right, over bulge and up to ledge.

3. 25m (-) Crack, slab to the left. Corner.

The climb was cleaned up considerably before the fist absent, and still climbs better then it looks. There are a few unnecessary bolts that were decommissioned in the '60's. "It may be done safely on purely jamb protection" J Ewbank 1967 guidebook.

The black V-chimney 1.5m left of AA.

1. 26m (16) Chimney.

2. 21m (16) Up to corner.

3. 20m (16) Up the corner.

Start 7m left of OU.

Aid at M3. Start 5m left of M. Sebco's finest hour: probably never repeated, and with good reason.

1. 15m (-) Aid roof, up the scrubby wall to ledge.

2. 15m (12) Up right through jungle to join OU.

Start below roofs 4m left of AGDftI. Small corner.

Again a tricky and strenuous first section.

Start at a dirty jagged crack 20m left of Orang Utang, marked.

1. 25m (13) Up 10m then fall onto thick scrub on ledge. Continue more easily to tree anchor on next ledge.

2. 30m (15) Up easily to top. Tree anchor.

Could probably also be done as one long pitch.

Left hand variant to Brumby. Start as for B.

1. 38m (18) Up over fern? To shelf, left to mantle. Wall right of tree to block.

2. 22m (15) Left to bollard, up wall.

A hard first pitch, strenuous and tricky. Starts at a square groove, marked.

P1. Up groove, (missing) peg runner, move out at top to left, and up to tree (and block) anchor.

P2. Up easy slab to top.

Can also be done as one long pitch.

Blocky arete about 11m left of Mustang.