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Mount Victoria Area
Once the focus of Blueys climbing, it's now seen a fair bit of regeneration. Mt Piddington is our premier trad climbing area. Lots of variety from old school mixed climbing through to state of the art sport climbing and even bouldering. Mt York has free camping and is the 'end' of the Blue Mountains - it's also the Blueys instructional area. Mt Vic has a great pub, an old art deco movie theatre, a museum and many fine bushwalks for the non climbers. It's 6km from Blackheath. |
Mount Piddington
This lovely and varied crag is the home of modern rock climbing in NSW. |
Mount Piddington |
Hornes Point
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Mount Piddington Hornes Point |
14
★ Yellow Crack
The obvious crack starting in the cave. |
18
★ Yellow Wall
Climb the wall on interesting rock 2m right of Yellow Crack past new carrots. Top out and look for rings set well back from edge. |
17
★ Yellow Fever
Start just to the right of Yellow Wall on the jug, move right then follow line of rings. |
Mount Piddington |
Pindari
The shady side of Mt.Piddington. More recently developed than Wirindi, 'Pindari' contains some great multi-pitch climbing (mostly on bolts). Many of the gear lines are good they just need a few more ascents. The routes in this area are listed LEFT to RIGHT. |
Mount Piddington Pindari |
Pindari Far Left
The base of the cliff is densely vegetated and covered in various moss, lichen, ferns and other plants, but dryer and cleaner higher up. |
20
Unknown
Short wall with carrots in the descent gully |
10 R
Ease
Middle of the short black wall in the gully. |
16 R
Bare Essentials
Scooped arete down from E. |
Sporting Sector
Commonly accessed as a rap-in-climb-out sector where you can easily knock off 4-5 nice pitches (although can also be accessed from the ground via pitch 1 of TSL). For easy rap-in access, from the base of the Yellow Fever route on the Horne Point buttress (this is the first bolted route you see on the Mt Piddington descent track) walk 30m downhill and south to the top of the buttress. Locate DRBB on the ground 2m from the edge, fix a 50m rope and rap in to flat ledge with triple bolt belay. |
21
★★ Rampaging Roy
The left hand line of rings through steepness from the belay ledge of TSL. Wandery. Good. Belay as for TSL off rings. |
20
★★★ This Sporting Life
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22
★★ Much of a Muchness
Rightmost line of rings off the belay of TSL. Tree belay on top. |
23
★★★ The House of Meat
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Pindari Proper |
22
Bets over Boredom
Start: Block in chimney 6m right of House of Meat.
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17 R
Houdini
You may wish you were a magician at some point on this one. Start: Chimney crack
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project
Project 1
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
12
★ Rimensky
Start: 9m right in chimney.
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18
Lord Jim
Start: Flared crack 4m right of Rimensky, marked.
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19
★★ The White Lion
Start: Thin crack 4m right again, marked.
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19
★★ The White Lion P1
Two right staggered finger cracks, cracks run out at about 21 metres and you transition to an adjacent climb. [Route will be merged] |
20 R
★ Holly Golightly
Start: As for TWL until it veers left. Up right side of arete and up. |
project
Project 2
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
★★ Beserker
Start: 4m right of TWL.
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27
Off–Roader
Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker. |
11 R
Pyreaugh
Start: 40m right of Beserker, beneath very broken roof and chimney, marked.
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20
★ Mirage
Start: 20m right again.
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18
Lay Lady Lay
Start: 5m right of M. Below obvious roof crack, marked. The start of the first pitch was originally aided on the FA. The 1974 description read: "Flick nut 5m up into crack, climb rope then free to ledge". But, the entire route has since been free climbed from the ground up. Route Description:
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Nostromo area
Here the cliff changes direction, the rock is dryer and the vegetation more open, with a fine view back to Mt Boyce. |
16
★★ Nostromo
Start: 125m right of LLL. Corner with parallel crack 1m right.
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14
Xenon's Son
Variant start to Shugar. Start: Broken crack on face 9m right of N.
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18
★★ Shugar
Start: Curving crack 5m right of "Xenon's Son".
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18
Gargoyle's Mouth
Start: 5m right again.
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18 R
June Day
Not sure of the grade on this. Start: 'Arete' right of GM. |
18
Gross Crack
63m right of GM. Start: Wide crack just left of corner. |
18
★ Bandalero
Start: Corner 8m right of GC. |
24
★★ Jets Over Jordan
Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.
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25
★ Vets Over Verdon
Variation of JoJ second pitch. Start: Straight up the arete to anchors. |
18
Golden Years
Start: 40m right of B.
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18
★ Cripple Corner
Start: Thin corner crack 13m right of GY. Can be done in one pitch.
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22
No Action
Start: 20m right of CC.
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26
★ Pussy Strut
Needs a rebolt! Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.
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25
★★ Voyage for Two
3 pitches rebolted 2004 Start: 'Arete' just right of Pussy Strut. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts. Pitch Descriptions:
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22
★★ Blind Ambition
Start: 6m right of Voyage for Two.
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21
Death Syndrome
Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.
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16
Zagen
Start: 100m right of DS.
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Mount Piddington |
Descent Gully Area
The first area you come to when walking in down the Horne's Point Fire Road. The climbs are listed RIGHT to LEFT as you come to them. Many are marked. |
Mount Piddington Descent Gully Area |
11
★ The Bonatti Crack
Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully. The obvious crack - good intro to jamming |
22
Chris' Climb
Start: 3m right of TBC. One old carrot 6.7m from the ground. |
23
No Fingers, No Fun
Start: 1m left again. |
16
★ Taurus
Start: 1m left again. 'Diagonal Crack'. |
21 R
Accuracy
Start: 5m left of T. Distinct lack of pro and goundfall potential. "Kill you without trying, that's ... accuracy" - The Cure |
20 R
Up and Coming
Start: Arete 3.5m left of A. One ring replacing original carrot 7m from the ground. |
14
★ Great Unwashed Direct Start
Start: Up the crack to the right of GU. |
9
★ Great Unwashed
Start at parallel cracks 3 meters left of direct start. |
25 R
★★★ Shango
Start: Right side of the arete left of GU. Has been rebolted with a direct start. |
19 R
Problems
Start: Short chimney 2m left of S. No pro!! |
Mount Piddington |
Helen Boulder
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Mount Piddington Helen Boulder |
18
★ Spastic Octopus
Start: Nth facing wall 30m down from 'Last Chance'. |
15
★ Helen
Start: crack 3m right of SO. |
19
★ Intermission
Start: Traverse line 1m right of H. |
15 R
Bolt Upright
Start: Blunt arete 8m to the right. Solo! |
23
★★ The Loch Ness Whippet
Start: 5m right of BU. One of the bolts is hidden inside the large half-height break. |
19 R
★ Salem Super Direct
Start: Blunt arete 2m right of TLNW. Nice enough climbing but sketchy old fixed gear and negligible trad. |
19
★★ Zany
Start: Thin orange diagonal crack 4m R of SSD. Re-bolted December 2015. Take bolt plates, wires & small-med cams. Lower off. |
20
★★ Pandemonium
Start: 1m right of Z. |
22
★★ Mandelbrot Set
Start up arete under fixed hanger between Pandemonium and Hot Water, finishing up HW. |
17
★ Hot Water
Start: Chimney 1m right of P. |
11
★ Guinevere
Start: As for HW. Chimney and corner. |
15
Doughboy
Start: Left arete directly below G. |
15
Crocodile Tears
Up grooove 3m right of Doughboy |
Mount Piddington |
Slape Area
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Mount Piddington Slape Area |
19
★★ Last Chance
Start: 11 left of P. |
17
★ Think Kink
Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and 2 glue-in carrots. Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC. |
20
★ Toucan Café
Start: 1m left of TK. |
17 R
Slape
Start: The middle of the wall. |
22
★ Rad Fem
Start: 2m left of S. |
22
Glass Asylum
Start: 2.5m left again. |
20
★ Turkey Patrol
Start: 4m left of GA. |
6
Their Finest Hour
Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches. |
12
Tyrannasaurus Rex
Start: 10m left of TFH.
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15
The Last of the Dregs
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
18
★ Masochist
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
20
★ Wizened Young Lads
Straight up from WYL initials. Step right into Masochist corner for a few moves then left onto face and up headwall to lower offs . Watch rope length. (Alternately just climb the thing on trad as a variant to Masochist as was the custom 30 years ago, recently revived by Macca) |
15
Whatever You Like
Start from the massive initials and left along ledge and up past bolt to fist-sized cam break (ignore old bolt in scoop on left). Up easier ground past good runners to big ledge. Poor sling then big cams on lip and fixed hanger. Pull lip, good sling runners, then left up wall past 2 bolts, more slings another 5m then easiest to move left to Merlot Madness rings, |
17
★ Merlot Madness
Harder and better than it looks. Start: Left of WYL at MM and CH initials. Straight up wall with carrots, FH and small/medium cams to DRBB. |
13
★ Chicken Hearted
Start: 7m left of WYL, just left of CH initials. Traverse left about 4m and up past 3 bolts (last on ledge) then overhang and straight to top, or Merlot Madnesss DRBB lower off at 28m. |
11
★ Cider
Start: Vegetated chimney marked C.
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21
Gog
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
8
★ Chimney and Wall
1m left of Gog. An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.
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19
Marantha
Good but take care! Start: 2.5m L of C&W
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19
★★ Corinthian
Pleasant Start: Start as for Maranatha
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13
★ Armageddon
Better than it looks! Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian', marked with evident ‘A’ with a faded ‘BV’ above it.
Exit: From tree head up faint trail to meet access path which leads to decent gully. |
21
★ Bon Voyage
Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base |
21
The Athenian
Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)
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16
★★★ The Spartan
Classic roof traverse above great space Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A
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19
Twister
Hostile, good second pitch Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)
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