Mainly awesome Porters Pass style rock. Cruxes often involve heel hooks, dynos or long moves. 15 min from carpark. Shade till late afternoon in summer, all day shade in winter. Stays dry in the rain, but can seep after a few days of rain.
Jan 2017:
Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2
Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.
This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.
Park as for Mt Boyce carpark one. Follow the walk down track for about 10mins until you reach a fork in the track, 100m from picnic spot. Veer left into bush along ridge for about 100m following stone cairns. Follow track down left below small cliffs to last cliff, then turn left down to crevasse gully with big chockstone. Be aware there is a big drop below you here.
Climb down onto and past chockstone on rungs, then down gully, being mindful of the overhang. Also note that the rungs/chockstone section can be mossy and quite slippery in wet seasons. Consider using your rope to lower your gear down into the gully before you climb down the rungs.
From Crevasse Gully walk left (facing out) for 98.3m, the first climb you get to is Unstuck in Time.
To get to the top (e.g. to rap in to do Soak up the Atmosphere), don't go down rungs next to chockstone, use short rope and rung on top of chockstone and follow path along the cliff.
All routes have lower-off anchors. To get off the very top either abseil off over face (55m) or abseil over back off rings 5m below top. 10 metres to anchor, then 36m to ground or 20m to mid way anchors. (Clip some draws on the way!)
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Você sabia que pode criar uma conta para registrar, rastrear e compartilhar suas escaladas? Milhares de escaladores já estão fazendo isso.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Data: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
Author(s): Simon Carter
Data: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
24 | ★★ Pokahontas | ||
26 | ★★★ SpiderPuss | ||
27 | ★★★ Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller | ||
29 | ★★★ Unstuck in Time |
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stephan meng em Waterfall Wall - B7E6FC9D-6D33-420A-98A7-5A951DC8DF33.jpeg
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