Node em Black Slab

The first climb on the lower black slab (wall really) left of Margarine Ridge. Relatively clean rock and good protection all the way makes for enjoyable climbing. The aid move can be easy done with a long sling and will eventually go free probably at 19-21. (Note: Has been freed by Andrew Jones – single move Grade 21)

Start: About 40m left of Margarine Ridge (lower tier) in middle of black wall at right facing flack\crack.

1. 20m. (14m1) Up crack to ledge, sling bolt for aid move. Clip BR moving right on ramp to V groove. Up groove BR and left on wall. Tree Belay.

2. 12m. (14) Up wide corner crack to ledge, move right around nose. Up to small foot ledge on wall. Bomber No.3, 0.5 Camalot and high nut for belay. Take time with belay.

3. 22m. (17) Up to bolt and climb headwall near left arete. Tree Belay.

4. 22m. (10) Up groove and juggy wall. Tree belay.

5. 13m. (3) Ramble over jug city to the bushy halfway ledge.

Hayden Brotchie, Jim Croft (alt Lead) 2/8/98

Various finishes exist - The start of Middle Slab (16) is approx 30m left, Margarine Ridge (13) is to the right or simply walk back to the Mt Hay Canyon Exit (8).