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Vias em Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill para uma graduação selecionada

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Mostrando os 7 vias.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Popularidade
23 The Ruin of the Cluan
1 21 25m
2 23 20m

Start: Climbs the big corner below the roof in the centre of the cliff, then joins 'Cryptic Clue' for 2 bolts before heading diagonally, and spectacularly L out to the arête of the buttress. Best done in 2 pitches. Take 13 draws.

  1. 25m (21) Climb easily up the face to the start of the very steep corner below the overhang. A terrific bit of climbing using chimney and bridging techniques up the corner. Step R at the roof to a double bolt belay on a small ledge.

  2. 20m (23) Up the corner on the RHS of the main roof to a stance below another overhang. Head L and overcome the blank hanging slab by a huge reach to a jug (crux). Continue up the L-trending overlap towards the arête, and when the holds run out, turn the small roof of the overlap with a long reach from underclings to a jug over the roof. Finish up the arête. Belay to single FH and glue-in bolt about 3m to L. Descend by abseil from the glue-in anchors to the L and rig slings over the edge.

Double ropes necessary.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Nick Hancock, 2006

Sport 45m, 2
22 Cryptic Clue

Starts in a shallow groove about 5m R of the previous route. Some thought provoking and very nice climbing up the groove and face leads to a cruxy section going through the overlaps about a third of the way up, to gain a small ledge. There is a double bolt belay here for The Ruin Of The Cluan, but unnecessary for this route.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2006

Sport 40m
22 George Clueney

Very thin stemming up short corner on rock pinnacle directly opposite the amphitheatre.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2017

Sport 15m, 6
23 Cluedo

About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2006

Sport 30m, 13
22 Blue Suede Clues

Up the centre of the face starting 5m R of the previous route. Climb steeply on some big features to a juggy, runout conclusion. A superb route.

FA: 2007

Sport 18m, 6
23 Cluening Around

On the small pinnacle opposite Blue Suede Clues. Follow right trending groove to the top.

Sport 10m, 6
23 Cluecified
1 21 26m
2 23 17m
3 23 42m

A 3 pitch, 85m climb, the only route which goes all the way to the top of the main wall. The first pitch is an exciting and unlikely traverse through the big roof, followed by a brilliant pitch of face climbing above the roof. The third pitch has two cruxy sections through a couple of small roofs with great moves. Take 17 draws.

  1. 26m (21) The first pitch of Cluecified is a remarkable journey, featuring a long but well protected traverse in an intimidating position. Start up the easy groove in the centre of the main wall for 10m, before the long traverse left above the big roof to gain the left slanting ramp. The crux is moving left past an overhang with nothing for the feet and big overhangs underneath, in an intimidating position. This pitch would be an excellent 21 to try as a one pitch route. Rap anchors at belay. 11 bolts.

  2. 17m (23) A superb face climb. 'Layback' up the steep flake off the belay, then traverse right to gain the weakness up the middle of the face. A sustained series of moves up the face with the crux just below the anchors. Belay on small ledge. 8 bolts.

  3. 42m (23) Not a 3 star pitch like the first 2 pitches, but with some terrific and challenging moves nonetheless. Up the easy face just right of the belay (18) to the base of the small overhang. Surmount the roof strenuously to gain the hanging corner (crux) and continue up the line to the second roof. Bridge steeply to a position level with the second bolt in the roof, before traversing right onto the face (crux). Then straight up the wall to jugs, then back left to finish up the easy groove. Double bolt belay on the summit. 14 bolts.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2007

Sport 85m, 3, 14

Mostrando os 7 vias.

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