Vias como trad em Gara Gorge

Only just qualifies as a route, or a very sketchy boulder. Up the nice jam crack

High start and follow the crack

Start: Under sickle-shaped under cling in the middle of the wall.

Up under cling, then directly up to hollow flake. Finish straight up.

Start: At base of arête 2m left of G.A.S.

Up arête tending right onto slab and gear placements. Directly up groove to top. R.P.’s and small cams.

Start 5m right of Trajectory.

Up staircase blocks to top.

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

Start: Arête left of Slackers and Robbers.

Up past FH to good break for gear, then past one more FH to top, share anchors with SR

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two FH plus natural gear.

Straight up thin crack, then past FH to break with good gear, up past another FH and up to Anchors.

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers.

Up thin seam, past FH then up to the easier corner. Good #0.3 in horizontal break to the right and if using double ropes there is also a good 0.2-0.3 in horizontal break on the left. Continue up to anchors on block at top.

Start: Block wedged down right from Private Sector.

Up wall above water into thin seam to top. Small TCVs and RPs for PR9. Friend belay.

The corner crack 2m right of SW. Stem and Jamb up the corner. Belay on top of block in cracks.

Inside the boulder starting behind Toby's Corner. Cave and chimney all the way up and pop out the top. No gear needed.

The arete right of S.W. Delicately up the left side of the arête past two bolts and a #2 Friend. Friend Belay.

Pleasant and technical for the grade. Start: Right of FHA.

Up the wall past two bolts and some pro. to belay in breaks at top.

The wall on the boulder. Up the wall and hand crack to top.

3m right of Good Morning Little School Girl. Supposedly better than it looks. Up staircase to ledge, hand-traverse left to hand-crack to top.

An overhanging black corner crack. Up the corner to top. Belay chains.

4m downstream from Thick As Thieves, the thin crack near the end of the buttress. Up over bulge to the crack/corner. Up this and step right onto ledge.

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

A corner with a bush. Up the corner, avoid the tree, then up final corner to top

Start: As for Pink Freud. Looks harder than 16 and probably is!

Up as for Pink Freud, left across wall using crack, step up and climb slabby arête.

Start: 2m left of Fugue State

Up crack.

Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park.

Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top.

Start: Somewhere (?) on a boulder 200 m downstream of Pink Freud.

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start.

Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay.

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

Start: As for Reunion.

At the top of the off-width step right onto the wall and finish up cracks to top.

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the FH, then move up (crux) to the next FH. Mantle over the bulge to lower offs, optional grassy top out.

Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly

Start: At a slab at the base of the crack.

Up slab to overlap, (crux) then up crack to top.

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement.

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux.

From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out.

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles.

Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out.

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade.

Climb Springer and then change gears and bust left through the horizontal roof crack and mantle.

A bouldery direct start. Up the face on interesting moves (crux) on to the ledge and up as for 'Keystone corruption'

Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor.

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute

4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one bolt. Abseil off chain anchor.

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

The juggy wall. A pleasant easy climb. Up wall, trending left to start, then back right to finish. DBB shared with JOTF

Start: Up the crack through the bulge to the top.

Strenuous jamming. Take a #4 Friend.

Start: The edge of the Chimney/Passageway.

Layback the chimney and on up to top.

Start: The diagonal seam to the right of the passageway as you walk out.

Follow the seam out to the arête, then up the arête to the top.

Start: the first route on the wall as you come out of the passage.

Up the wall passing a bolt then up cracks to top.

Start: The arête right of S.B.

Up arête/wall past two bolts and some natural protection to the top. Belay off tree further back.

Start: A short overhanging wall that eases to a slab. One BR.

Strenuously through the little overhang, then a rising rightward traverse past a BR to belay. Walk off. Protection is difficult to place on the traverse.

Start: Approximately 6m right of Roadblock.

A wall/corner with an off-width finish. Not a good route.

Up over horizontal jam cracks, then diagonally right to ledge. Either belay or continue up offwidth on right to top. Take a large tube or better still, don’t do it.

Start: The corner near a river oak right of Another One Bites The Dust.

Up corner crack to slanting roof, right onto edge, then right up flake crack.

Start: The arête right of Jail Bait.

Up arête, finish as for Jail Bait.

Start:- A few metres right of All the Young Punks at an obvious diagonal corner. Pitch 1. Straight up the corner, stepping right at about half height then right again just above. Finish up sharp crack. (Can be split into two short pitches if desired).

Start: Details are vague but this route is believed to start in the gully on the upstream side of the buttress.

Up obvious crack to ledge, then up right-trending crack to top.

Start: 10m down right from W.t.M.

Up obvious flake to top.

Start: The very obvious horizontal line that traverses the length of the buttress.

Quite a classic, that is undeservedly rarely climbed due to it’s obscurity. Traverse left along obvious horizontal roof crack until a few powerful moves put you on a good ledge. Continue left and down a few moves to belay at water level.

Wandering line following path of least resistance to top. Start towards the left end of the cliff. Escape through the tree on the right at the top, going left up the face would be harder but more rewarding.

Start left of and link into Jump2

Start: The corner to the left of the thin roof crack.

Up corner crack to top.

Start: As for Motorhead Madness.

Up corner as for Motorhead Madness, then onto ledge. Up flake, then arête to top.

It’s all over if you can hang in there for the first 7m.

Start: The thin crack.

Through the roof and up the crack on tenuous locks until a tricky move puts you on the ledge. Left, then up the short crack.

Almost a boulder problem but bad high fall. Right trending layback crack

Start: Left leaning crack in middle of face that is capped by two boulders that form a cave and continuation of crack out through small roof.

Up crack and out small roof slinging chock stone before stepping slightly left and crimping up final face.

Start: If you got it right there should be two bolts sticking out of a projecting buttress. Rap directly in off these to the lip of the huge roof where you will find two more belay bolts. Start here!

From the belay, step right and up the finger crack. Swing around the roof and up the cruisy slab to finish up the final bulging hand-crack. Belay back at bolts.

Start: On the ledge that is reached by traversing in about 50m down the upstream gully. The clean orange corner one pitch below the obvious roof crack which faces west.

Up initially overhanging twin cracks, then a few nice moves find you back in the offwidth to finish. Belay back on ledge.

Either climb 'Pockets Full of Emptiness' or do a roped easy traverse onto the ledge. Can also be accessed via the 'Cloud Grazer' abseil.

Up a flared off-width with two carrots, ignore the choss deep in the crack. Gain a semi decent rest at the roof, then bust right for 4m before heading directly through the burly roof crack, round the lip and on and upwards through more off-width to finish.

A hidden tiny perfect hand crack. Almost a highball boulder except for the 50m cliff to your left.

“Need a little time to wake up!”

Up layback flakes until they run out. Step right to some tricky wires then crimp up (crux) to slopey ledge before finishing up the final crack.

The original approach into Dream Catcher. Scramble onto the left ledge from below or above and then awkwardly and very carefully traverse around the long cantilevered nose and along the back of the roof.

Up to low angled crack slab to a stance. Then a fun move through the roof and up the next crack / slab deep into the back of the roof.

The outrageous roof crack so steep you climb downwards.

Start: Traverse in from the left or climb 'Foreplay' then reset anchor at the back of the roof.

Through offwidth crack which slowly tapers all the way down to nothing before opening up again and then up the headwall.

Start down on very small ledge (build a semi hanging belay). Follow easy ramp slightly right to first rooflet. Short boulder through this and up easy slab crack into the big main roof. Bust out this through the lip turn (crux). Continue up pumpy headwall then tackle the final third rooflet boulder problem to topout at DBB.

Original aided at 20 M1 and exited left through vegetated alcove, must do third rooflet for the full tick.

This is the obvious chimney which can be seen easily from The Bastille.

1. 20m Up blocks to overhanging off-width, traverse right.

2. 10m Up chimney to top.

Start: 25m left of “The Chop”.

1. 28m Up over flakes then into the back of a chimney (strenuous). Then up to a large cutaway ledge.

2. 12m Traverse right and up to crack. Up crack to top.

Start: 10m left of “The Chop”.

1. 30m diagonally right from corner past one lefthand mantle-shelf to a spike runner. Up recess to roof.

2. 20m out right in off width roof, and then up from ledge to finish as for C.N.P.

Start: At the large tree under two roofs.

1. 25m Up over swiveling boulders and vines, pass to the right of a large roof, then up ramp/corner to more roofs. Up through roofs into crack with orchids, exit to the right.

2. 15m Up to roof then left at ledge.

3. 15m Up chimney to finish as for C.N.P.

Start: Mossy corner 20m down right from “The Chop”.

1. 25m diagonally right up series of corners and small rooves to belay at good stance in corner capped by a big roof.

2. 10m Exit right through the off-width onto the ledge to belay at the start of the beautiful flake.

3. 15m Up splendid crack then slab to belay at tree.

This starts off the ledge 30m below the last pitch of “Heritage Colours”. It is best to walk right from the boulders at the top of the Fortress and skirt around to tree at the top and abseil in.

Start: The ledge 10m off the ground right of H.C. at a double-bolt belay.

1. 30m Up the scoop past three bolts, up over block (small cams), and up the short arête past two more bolts.

2. 15m Finish up the crack as for third pitch of H.C.

Follow this down until you are looking down a gully, high up on the left hand wall of which is a large dead tree. Above this is the start of the climb. Abseil down from large block, tending left(looking outwards) around various trees. If you end up under a 3m roof tangled up in a tree you are in the right place. (To the left, facing the cliff, is a double roof. That is not the climb)

Helmet strongly recommended for belayer.

1. 25m Start short flakey offwidth, and up hand/fist jam crack to rest under roof. Place #3 camalot in vertical break, take deep breath, hang off knob, commit to rounded horizontal break (no footholds) 2-3m traverse to pair of nice arm bars and something for the feet. After pausing for breath, haul up into corner & a good no hands rest. Then up around a couple of blocks, slow down after these, as the natural momentum of the climb takes you past a good belay ledge to your left.

2. 20m Climb to right of trees, avoid large loose flake (the ugly chain here is to sort of stabilize the flake. DO NOT CLIP) , once above this, comfortable layback to bottom of 8m slab.(pleasant belay here if you feel like it) 4 bolts & comfortable edges, which diminish towards final body smear and top out.

Up easy vertical crack, then left along horizontal roof crack getting progressively more staunch

Start: the face and flake left of S.F.

Boulder problem start gains the flake. Up this to a final stretch for the top. Two bolts and an SLCD placement.

Start: The obvious thin crack in the middle of the face.

Up the tapering crack with a cruxy move out right and on to the top.

Start: The corner 3m right of Get Nuked.

Up the corner to the left-leaning diagonal. Along this until it tops out with “Get Nuked”.

Lead and named by B. Briner in ‘95.

Start: The obvious right leaning hand-crack.

Up the crack with a hard move to see you at the top. Belay in break.

Start: The line up the face left of Get Nuked.

Two bolts protect the upper half. Up the face (Friends in breaks) to the bolt and interesting crux, past second bolt and up to top.

A little contrived - try to ignore the temptation to step on the ledges.

Start: The incipient seam that goes up just right of the Kitchen ledges. 2m left of “Lean Cuisine”.

Up the seam with some tricky gear to the final moves. Reach left onto the ledge for a siderunner before committing to the final belly-flop.