★★ Blabbermouth 16

Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away.

1. 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. Most parties choose instead to climb 'Blabbermouth VS', which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.

2. 34m (16) Traverse out L (FH) for about 10m before heading up past more FHs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay shared with 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

3. 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past 2 FHs. Up past lots of slots then more FHs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).

4. 20m (13) Straight up past 6 FHs.

5. 28m (14) Step L off belay. Up corner (FHs and gear).

6. 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at 5th belay of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

7. 20m (10) As for last pitch of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

Rack: to #3 friend.

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.