Vias em The Promised Land

Up the left arête of the downhill face of the boulder via 5 FHs. 2FH to belay.

Start below a left-leaning closed corner line, right of centre of the face. Up to the base of the corner, then up a couple of body-lengths until able to pull up right around the arête and onto the face. Up. 4 FHs.

Start a few metres right of Ground Effect. Step up to reach the top of the huge flake/block and up onto this to the first fixed hanger. Move up and left past a second FH to the nose/arête. Step left around this and up past two more FHs to belay off double rings.

Start as for Gravitrix. Up to clip Gravitrix’s first FH, then straight up past two more FHs to belay off rings.

This route is on a separate small cliff 40m up and L of the descent route from the main cliff. Middle of cliff [or start up obvious crack and step L] past horizontal breaks.

Start at the LH end of the main cliff at the left side of the yellow roofs. An obvious little thin flake. Up flake to overhang then traverse L to belay in gully. Good climbing but the pro is a bit dodgy.

1. 30m 22 Climb the prominent arête L of Loose End past 3 bolts

2. 40m 22 Step onto wall from small tree, up steep slab past 2 carrot bolts to a ledge. Traverse R then up to a pin, up and traverse R to exit.

Sustained and enjoyable climbing with interest on every pitch. A bit mossy. Takes the main big corner and crack line on the L side of the cliff, finishing just R of some massive ceilings.

1. 22m 17. An awkward start up the corner on the L leads into the large cracked corner. Up this to a ledge.

2. 16m 17. Step R and climb sustained corner to ledge on L.

3. 14m 17 Up wall to a tricky diagonal crack which leads up L. Finish up line above.

1. 20m Up offwidth crack 10m right of Loose End, then slab to overlap. Treverse right and join Puff The Magic Dragon just below its belay.

2. 15m Continue up Puff The Magic Dragon.

Starts 30m R of Loose End at the discontinuous corner system. Spaced pro and gritty rock make this feel a bit insecure.

1. 25m 18. Up to ledge and climb the corner above. Turn the small roof then the slab to pass the overhang. Traverse 4m R to belay at foot of corner.

2. 15m 13. Up the corner and flakes above and then traverse R to ledge with trees. Abseil off or scramble to top.

R of PtheMD is a steep wall. Around R from this is a wall facing the road. It has a climb with 2FH in the middle of it [Blackbeard]. This climb takes the arête and buttress at the L edge of this wall. Start around the L arête on the South face directly below the steep arête with the two orange streaks to its right.

1. 35m 18. Up easily to foot of arête, climb steep wall L of arête moving R ward to front of buttress where the angle eases. Shallow groove on front of buttress then up until level with roof on R.

2. 15m 9. Up as for Unknown Nuts.

An old nut and a threaded sling were in situ on this climb.

1. 35m 12. A steep, wide crack a few meters R of the L arête of the East face, starting 10m up above a vegetated start. Up to and up crack exiting L ward where it runs out. Up past L hand end of overhang to ledge.

2. 15m 9. Up arête until level with next large ledge, R along this to abseil bolts.

1. 35m 15. Start 1.5m R of UN. Up seams [fiddly small cams and wires] and good cracks to below the overhang. Step L and up to step back R and swing through the overhang at an obvious crack. Up to ledge.

2. 15m 10. Up LH crack in wall above, then R to abseil bolts.

1. 35m 12. Start 2.5m right of Blackbeard’s Ghost. Up the short wide crack then the right facing flake. Take the face to the short orange corner below the overhang. Up the corner and swing right steeply through the overhang. Up the crack to a sloping ledge.

2. 15m 9. Straight up to and up the short headwall to the ledge, walk right to the abseil bolts.

1. 35m 13. The chimney line on the L of the Blackbeard buttress [2.5m R of BG]. Once above the chockstone move into the crack on the R wall and follow this through the steepening to large ledge.

2. 15m 10. Up RH crack in wall above, then R to abseil bolts.

The best way to climb this buttress is as described, stepping L at the 2nd bolt for an excellent sustained outing at around 14/15. A good selection of wires and small/medium cams required. Deserves to be popular. Start: 1.5 R of CS. Up cracks to ledge. Up wall past 2 FH. Step L at the 2nd FH [continuing direct is 17, but less pleasant] and up to stance near arete. From here up and R climbing the middle of the sustained buttress following the best gear and holds to a ledge at 35m [possible belay]. Continue up more easily to belay bolts. Abseil off.

Note [and mea culpa] This buttress was filthy and dangerously unprotected for the first third with no evidence that it had ever been climbed. We abbed down, cleaned it and placed a couple of bolts low down. We then climbed it direct past the bolts at about grade 17. We had assumed that the Blackbeard’s Ghost buttress was that of Blackbeard and that this was a completely new route. In fact we seem to have climbed a direct version of Blackbeard [PA].

The chimney on the R of the Blackbeard buttress.

Takes the steep corner and roof 3m R of GDWTS

1. 30m Up the wall and squeeze past a large gum tree. Out R to groove and up to roof, though break and on to belay.

2. 30m Traverse L for 2m then up through major fault in the overhangs above and on to belay.

Climb the rib R of TT then step L onto blocks below roof. Straight up through this. Probably very undergraded.

This is an orange wall with a black streak and a crack up its centre.

1. 30m Up the short corner to the orange wall. Up this [crux] then through a small overhang. Up to belay

2. 30m Straight up to overhang, traverse L with difficulty then up.

Walk R across the ledge at the top of V8s and then behind the native pines. Up the slab to the top.

80m R of V8s is a black slab. Left of this is an obvious large orange roof, start down below this at a crack a few metres L of a corner coming down from the R side of the roof. The traverse under the roof is excellent

1. 45m 11. Jam the crack then up to the roof, traverse L and belay.

2. 15m 8.Step onto wall and up. Walk right to chains above Journalistic Licence to abseil off [2 x 50m] The old belay and abseil tree is long dead and gone.

Takes the crack and L arête of the big black slab. Up the initial crack to ledge, L along this [possible belay]. Climb the corner/flake and up slab near the arête until angle eases. Head up R to the belay/abseil chains [2x50m].

From the block on the ledge 3m L of JL go up on cleaned holds [RPs] to ledge on JL, finish up this

Start as for JL but continue straight up crack system and nose of slab. Not as well protected as JL

Midway between Serengeti and the RH edge of the black slab. Up slab, then trend diagonally L after half height. Poorly protected.

This route as described seems to be a bit contrived. Up for 5m from RH end of black slab with large gum tree half way up, then step across offwidth. Up to roof then L to gum. Off width to bush then exit L across slab [no pro] to belay as for JL etc.

You can just climb the wide crack at the R edge of the slab direct at about grade 12.

A bit indirect but has some interesting climbing. About 40m right of Journalistic Licence is an easy angled recessed bay with orange and black striped rock on the left wall and a steep head wall.

1. 30m (crux) Up the easy corner forming the left edge of the bay for about 15m until two metres below the horizontal break and orange bulge in the corner. Step out left and up the wall to below the large chimney/groove in the roof. Traverse right under this to the arête, up this to the bushy ledge. Move the belay 15m right.

2. 20m The crack line throug h the centre of the steep orange and black striped rock then left to large tree (abseil)