Ajuda

Musbury Crags

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Ascensões: 29

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

13

Sazonalidade

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Descrição

NOTE: Detail taken from VCC online update 2001.

Questões de acesso herdado de Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Descent notes

Musbury Crags consists of two main buttresses. To descend from the right hand buttress, scramble to the top and either climb into the gully that splits the two buttresses or walk down behind the left one. Descent from the left buttress is via the central gully which is reached by scrambling down to the top of Cosy Corner.

Ética herdado de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Etiquetas

Alguns conteúdos foram fornecidos sob licença de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vias

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Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1991

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

FA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

FA: Tim Burke & Chris Baxter, 1991

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

FA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

FA: David Witham (solo), 1981

FFA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Heather Phillips, 1984

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

FA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

FA: Julian Oldmeadow & John Murphy, 1992

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

FA: Bill Andrews, Heather Phillips, Allan Hope & Ceri Law, 1984

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

FA: David Schirra & Chris Baxter, 1990

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

FA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Short but committing layback. Scramble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Schirra, 1990

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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