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Sumário
Granite crack climbing and bouldering close to Melbourne, no crowds, great views, short walk to access, easy to top rope.
Descrição
Granite crag just over an hour from Melbourne, situated in a Flora reserve which runs along the highway. Good views north, nice rock and smattering of lines in the 17-24 grade. Short cliffline easy to toprope, highest route is only 25m, and features some interesting cracks on good qaulity granite that is kind on the paws; a good spot for beginners to granite cracks. Climbs are generally crack affairs, there is one bolted line at time of writing, but potential for more on some faces. Makes a good little daytrip from Melbourne if you are sick of the local stuff and don't want to drive to Gramps or Araps. A nice trip is to do Big Hill and nearby Tennerife. Its a lovely location with great views north, lots of wildlife and a few climbs that stay in the shade through summer.
Questões de acesso
The crag itself is in a flora reserve and there is only a thin strip of land that extends to the road. Do not cross the horse stud to access the crag there are new owners with expensive horses and they are touchy about this.
There have been issues previously with 4wd vehicles driving onto the reserve and property and shooting. Kangaroos and wallabies have been shot and left to die with some making down to the property. Because of this, the gate has now been locked so that vehicles can't get on. If climbers see anything like this happening or untoward, please contact the ACAV and contact can be made with the property owner and police to report them, it would be much appreciated.
NOTE: There have been a huge increase in the amount of snakes that have been seen – lots of browns. So take care.
Falcons nest there in September through to about November so don't access then.
There are some endangered wildflowers that grow amongst the crag boulders and cliffs (some can be found on the 'sandpaper terrace', as well as numerous wombats, echidnas and falcons, so be aware.
Acesso
This is a roadside crag just off the Hume Highway. From Melbourne, head north on the Hume. A few minutes after the Avenel roadhouse you will see Mt Tennerife on your right, keep heading north until You see a turnoff for Berry Lane. Turn right, then left onto the dirt road (Faithfull Rd) just off the highway. Before the top of the crest you will see a gate on the right, park here, and follow the fire trail up the hill to the south. The Southern Boulders are obviously on the southern side of the ridge, and the crag is on the northern face. Climbs are described from this approach.
To get to the better boulders you need to contour around the ridge and pick out the stuff with good potential.
Onde ficar
Nearby towns Avenel, Longwood, Seymour and Euroa have hotels and other accomodation.
História
In 1969, 'Trial' (6) and 'Coolu' (5) were established, as well as the other 'chimney', 'Tribulation' (14). Chris Baxter aided Dipsomania with his brother in 1970 and led the crag favourite 'Cut Throat Crack' with Keith Lockwood. In '74 those routes went free by Mike Law, who also happened to solo a second ascent of 'A smile from Julia', and soloing the FA of 'Lightstropper'. 1974 also saw visits from Nic Taylor, Reg Marron, Iain Sedgeman, Peter Watson and Andrew Bowman took most of the obvious lines. In 1975 Mike Law and Kim Carrigan returned to put of more comments from Julia. Things stayed quiet with focus moving to the bigger crag down the road at Mt Tenerife. In the late 1990's Pat McVeigh-Mcconnel and Darryl McConnel put up the nice beginner line 'Mosquito Corner', a rather difficult 10. Steve Wilson and Robin Holmes finished off the last of what was available in 2002 with 'Battle of the Bulge', the one star 'Lost for Words' and 'Gravel Rash' all on the sandpaper terrace. They also added a nice variant to the already enjoyable 'Tribulation' at 18.
In 2010 the bouldering potential of Big Hill was explored more closely, with lines on the southern boulders being developed including the imposing Shorebreak Boulder.
In 2018 with all obvious trad lines developed, Matt Brooks and others led a small resurgence and bolted a number of new routes including 'Angry White People' (10) and 'Mad Season' (14), a thoroughly bolted low angle slab. Brooks and Josef Goding also developed three new routes at the Sandpaper terrace including 'Where is Julia' (15), 'She Makes my Day' (18) and 'Last Beautiful Girl' (21).
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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Data: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
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Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Data: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
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★ Dipsomania 19 - dipsomania
Shorebreak Boulder - Shorebreak Boulder
Shorebreak Boulder - Shorebreak Boulder
Big Hill - A Grunt from julia
Sun 11 Jun
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