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Basement and Hollow Principalmente Escalada trad 14 vias no setor

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Ascensões: 2
14
AU
15171921

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Descrição

Two small varied sectors on the north end of the crag, on the lower level.

Questões de acesso herdado de New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Acesso

Easiest to walk along the base track 140 left of "Crack 'n' Up wall".

Alternatively, rap in from the L end of "The Hall of Horrors" from an angophora tree with its root curling over the cliff edge.

Ética herdado de Joll's Bridge

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

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Alguns conteúdos foram fornecidos sob licença de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Conteúdos

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The Basement Wall Voltar a conteúdo

This slabby, compact, 20m high wall is located directly below the "The Hall of Horrors". It is also located on the same level as the "Crack 'n' Up Wall" and can be reached from there by walking left for about 140m.

Alternatively, below the L end of "The Hall of Horrors" is an angophora tree with its root curling over the cliff edge (directly above "Cool Street"). Rap in here.

All of the climbs here start off a ledge about 5m above off the main level. Gain this ledge at its southern end via a step-up under a small cave.

2
16 Full Body Fluff Mixed trad 12m, 1

Above the step-up. Nice warm up to Basement Wall. Climb steepening slab on edge of cave to small corner, clip BR and finish it off.

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1995

3
21 ★★ D9 Lust Mixed trad 20m, 1

10m L of FBF. A little grubby in the middle, but still worth the effort. Up 4m to #1 friend. Over small overlap (#4 friend) then on to a perfect #3.5 friend hole. Continue up and right to the base of vertical crack (#0.75 friend) and up this (wires). Move L 1m to swing out to clip BR and finish up thin slab moves. Belay/rap anchor at stance.

FA: Andrew Powell & John Codogen, 1995

4
19 ★★★ Hot Black Light Mixed trad 22m, 2

4m L of D9L. Great moves on great rock. Thin climbing for 4m to first pro (#2 friend). Onward passing small pro (#0.5, #0.75 friends) just under lip of small black wall. Up this (2 BRs) and continue up small flake (small wires) to horizontal (#3 friend) and swing up right to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.

FFA: andrew powell & paul

5
20 ★ Horny Bugger Mixed trad 22m, 2

5m L of HBL next to grass tree. Kick in the end of this one. Up wall with pockets (range of friends) to horn (sling this). On to small ledge (#0.75 friend), now some fingery moves up clean orange rock passing 2 BRs to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1995

6
21 ★★ Cool Street Mixed trad 20m, 2

Full rack of cams plus two U-bolts.

FFA: paul & andrew powell, 1995

7
19 Uncle Clouse Trad 17m

12m L of CS. A nice bouldery pocketed start. Up 4m to first pro (#1, #2 friends). Grunt through bulge then up easier wall with wide range of friends and a medium hex. Good climbing finishes at tree (clean rap from here).

FA: Andrew Powell

8
15 Bondi Trad 17m

8m L of UC at broken orange wall beneath cave. More sand than Bondi (at least at the start). Up edge to horizontal edge, move right to clean rock and mantel. Good rock begins. Up corner and flake system behind tree to top. Belay off tree located up the hill a bit.

FA: Tim Maroney & Andrew Powell, 1997

9
22 ★ The Box Under The Stairs Mixed trad 15m, 3

4m L of B. Pump start - slab finish. Up to first BR, then snap for the next couple of jugs and bomb proof #3 or #2.5 friend placement. On to second BR on lip then up slab (3rd and final BR) to belay tree atop block.

FA: Andrew Powell

10
20 ★ Holding down Two Lives Mixed trad 23m, 3

8m L of tBUtS. The bottom and the very top gives this one its grade. Up flake veering right slightly to get on top of big block (good #0.75 friend in horizontal). Another move or two gets you to some more holes and a bomber #1.5 friend placement. Balance your way up a bit left to the first BR (crux). Cruise up easy slab (BR) to final stiff moves (BR). Grunt over the little roof to finish at good belay tree.

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1997

The Hollows Voltar a conteúdo

Size isn't everything, but in this case a bit more sure would be nice. Still, this is a nice little set of slabs of about 11m.

It can be found tucked away 30m directly down hill from HB (on "Basement Wall").

12
15 Nobody Home Trad 11m

At lefthand side of base. Pleasant climbing. Up the middle of the slab with adequate pro.

FA: Andrew Powell (solo), 1996

13
15 Timbre Trad 11m

Very much the same as NH, but keeping to the left hand edge of the wall, through overlap and onto top. Once again not bad pro.

FA: Andrew Powell (solo), 1996

14
20 ★ Gate Keeper Sport 10m, 2

Left of slot opening at grey streak. Nice moves on compact grey streak. Straight up streak (2 BRs) to bolt belay 3m back on block.

FA: Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney & Paul Riviere, 1996

15
22 ★ Thin Skinned Sport 10m, 3

0.5m left of GK. Thin just thin, good though! Trend left up black rock on massive edges (3 BRs). Tree belay.

16
17 Glass Snout Mixed trad 10m, 1

4m left of TS. An easing slab. Pad up past BR, #1.5 friend and small wires. Tree belay.

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1996

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