Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Caucasian Chalk Circle - with luke dow | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Think the guide said 18, felt a bit soft, so 16 makes sense.
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12 | ★ Gillette - with luke dow | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Enjoyed this one, followed Dow up it first go and lead it after as the Gorilla area was busy.
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7 | Reflections - with luke dow | 8m | Don't Bother | ||||
Nothing left of Gillette was really worth doing, overgrown landings with average climbing.
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ A Question of Balance | 15m | |||||
Pretty cool for a 13
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow!
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Carl Schneider, Mark Charles Barnett | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Clean to the rest in the craft both times but not enough juice to pull the final moves.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
TR after failing at the bottom. Cool cool route. Worth three stars. Nice move down low with the right hip in and a right hand gaston on small crimpy flake. Launched for the RH jug at the start. The LH cross at the end is a cool cool move, and you can launch for the final jug from there too. At the LH cross you can lock your RH fingers in and go as high as you can with the L hand. Higher feet at that point helps too.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great little sneaky sport route
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Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | |||||
Barefoot
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Wed 17th Nov 2021 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress - with Karl Borg | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Pleasant after edging around the nervous start
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with Karl Borg | 15m | Average | ||||
Dropped a few nuts on Karl from half height just to keep him focused
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Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
12 | Death Dream | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I suggest to place lots of pro on this one - I fell on the bottomless corner trying to seat my No1 Rock !
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Sat 23rd Jan 2021 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Close to the Edge | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun!
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14 | ★ Catch 22 - with Cymru Rob | 17m | Average | ||||
Entertaining!
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Forgot that I'd done this before. Very nice route, has some very cool moves in it. TR only.
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Sun 3rd May 2020 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
With knotted top-rope to protect bottom but ended up using it throughout. Need to repeat lead on placed pro (where rock permits)
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12 | ★ Gillette | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Finished in the wrong groove - made it easier than 12
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Sun 10th Nov 2019 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with John Barefoot | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Used The Inverted Rasp crack
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Sun 10th Feb 2019 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell off 1m from the top. Will have to come back soon and get the lead.
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Sun 15th Jul 2018 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
On top rope, really excellent climb. That last move!
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18 | ★ Close to the Edge | 20m | |||||
Awkward move over ledge, two move wonder.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | |||||
Beautiful sequenced climbs with positive holds and laybacks
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13 | ★ The Inverted Rasp | 16m | |||||
Run out in many places.
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13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | |||||
Be careful of Bush beta
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Sat 28th Oct 2017 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct - with cameron edser | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
I didn't find any of the moves that hard it's just super sustained.
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Sun 26th Feb 2017 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV - with Samantha Klose | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is fun and a bit burly. Fell off the last couple of moves.
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with Samantha Klose | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Top is hard. Find your slab brain!
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Sun 30th Oct 2016 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Solo in the wet again cause I don't give a fuck.
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Sat 13th Aug 2016 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct - with James Sunjaya | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good workout!
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Sun 29th May 2016 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Street Legal - with Natalie | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
This feels a bit contrived but is actually quite good.
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with Natalie | 15m | |||||
Very nice
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with Samantha Klose | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Sexy crack past the rooflette.
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13 | ★ The Buttress - with Samantha Klose | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Kind of terrifying! Gear in the first half is kind of shit, on very suspect rock. Things get better up higher, but still, beware of loose rattly rock. The soft drizzle as I tackled the finishing crack just added to the flavour. The climbing its self was awesome, just wouldn't recommend this for a grade 13 leader.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Samantha Klose | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice sustained jug haul.
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Mon 14th Mar 2016 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Started off well, clipped first bolt and climbed on. Foot hold broke loose as I was about to clip 2nd bolt. Nice fall with Pendulum into rock resulting in cracked tooth and rivers of Blood
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Sat 10th Oct 2015 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
18 16 | ★ Caucasian Chalk Circle - with Petzl Basic | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty sustained for a 16!!! I'll add the Rockclimbing around Adelaide by Paul Badenoch and Luke Adams have it graded as an 18...
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Fri 24th Jul 2015 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Coalition - with Ben Phillips | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Attempted the start atleast 3-5 times before getting off the ground. I went off route to Gorilla my Dream DS LHV and had to go back (made it heaps awkward for myself) but got there in the end.
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18 | ★ Close to the Edge - with Ben Phillips | 20m | |||||
Started strong but had trouble at roof, where the rope wasn't in the right spot and was pulling.
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13 | ★ The Buttress - with Simon Barnett | 20m, 1 | |||||
nice cool down after some tough climbs.
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16 | ★ Caucasian Chalk Circle - with Samantha Klose | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
The guidebook has this at 18, which seems a more appropriate grade.
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19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams - with Ben Phillips | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Brutal, painful and oh so good.
Got a bit off-widthey in the start of the crack before jumping around to the outside.
Grunted and groaned a lot through the top, and was mocked by some walkers through the gorge.
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Sun 12th Apr 2015 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams - with Anton Steketee | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
If top roping use some directional gear if you can to reduce swing
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18 | ★ Close to the Edge - with Mick Starkey | 20m | Average | ||||
Superbelay past the roof ...
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18 | ★ Close to the Edge - with Mick Starkey | 20m | Average | ||||
Wandered left onto The Buttress to get past the crux.
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Wed 4th Feb 2015 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Thomas Boehm | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyable, nice moves on good holds.
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Sat 31st Jan 2015 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams - with Elisa Chaplin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This made me work! Not much gear down low but plenty where you need it. The wide crack stalled me for some time. Exciting finish too
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with Elisa Chaplin | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Alright I guess
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Tue 18th Nov 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Nick Chappell | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It'd be a fair way to the first bolt on lead...
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16 | ★ A Question of Balance DF - with Chewy | 15m | Average | ||||
Alright I guess.
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Fri 5th Sep 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ A Gorilla Coalition | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Everything before the crack is super sustained. The lead would be committing!
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19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a joy climbing through the crack.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Warm up.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Decided to lead it again, was going to have a chilled top rope day but temptation prevailed. You, the rock, three bolts, great moves, the top. What more could you ask for!
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Tue 8th Jul 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Coalition | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not bad, felt reasonable consistent with some nice moves in there.
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17 | ★ Coalition - with Nick Chappell | 18m | Average | ||||
Alright
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Nick Chappell | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyable enough, the glued hold on top isn't very nice though.
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Sat 14th Jun 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
In the wet with a sprained knee because I don't give a f#@$!
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Thu 3rd Apr 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★ Catch 22 | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
loved it - a must climb starting from the cave
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16 | ★ Street Legal | 13m | Average | ||||
seems like a easy 16, not many holds up the top
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Wed 26th Feb 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So close to the onsight
Got it 3rd go though
Awesome route with a great finish
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route the finish straight up is better than the other variants
If this was at boulder bridge or far crag it would see a lot more traffic.
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Sat 11th Jan 2014 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with Lawrence Krauter | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
I made it to the top, but rested on the rope.
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13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I top roped this route, without resting on the rope.
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Thu 19th Dec 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Street Legal | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
nervous after halfway with nothing to hold on to.
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17 | ★ Coalition | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Came back after 2 days, still tricky, but knew what to do.
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Tue 17th Dec 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Coalition | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
difficult
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17 | ★ Coalition - with Simon Barnett | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
All right, nothing special. Bit light on protection.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Simon Barnett | 15m, 3 | |||||
Not as strong as I used to be.
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13 | ★ The Buttress - with Simon Barnett | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
First lead since the ankle injury. Rock not as solid as I remember, gear down low fairly poor.
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Sat 26th Oct 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
No harness, no rope, no protection. Just me, my chalk bag and the rock.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another lap!
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Sat 14th Sep 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★ Catch 22 | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
felt much harder than a 14!
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Mon 2nd Sep 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Felt a bit nervous placing gear in the lower half, rock is a bit suspect
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Sun 3rd Feb 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress - with James Sunjaya | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
That carrot looks like it needs to go in a CCSA museum. No longer required due to the invention of these great things called cams.
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18 | ★ Caucasian Chalk Circle - with James Sunjaya | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Sustained and gently overhanging.
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16 | Swift Parrot - with James Sunjaya | ★ Good | |||||
Bouldery start through the big roof out of the cave is easier than it looks but quite satisfying. Watch out for the terrible disintegrating holds though. Second roof nice also.
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19 | The Company of Lovers - with Garth Wimbush | Don't Bother | |||||
Contrived indeed. I tried to traverse all the way along the lip but ran into some truly horrendous rock and so commenced upwards.
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16 | ★ Street Legal - with James Sunjaya | 13m | Average | ||||
Nothing special.
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with James Sunjaya | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Pleasant enough.
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13 | ★ The Inverted Rasp - with James Sunjaya | 16m | Average | ||||
Mediocre.
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13 | Lorikeet - with James Sunjaya | 18m | Average | ||||
One interesting bit moving across and around the roof.
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Fri 1st Feb 2013 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Darren Thompson | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Reminds me of fascination which reminds me of muesli. (Gently overhanging left facing flake with plenty of side pulling.)
1 sit on the first try, got it 2nd go. Rattly flake down low a little concerning, learnt quickly how to climb without touching it. |
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18 | ★ Close to the Edge | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed on both the L and R of the arete. Some poor rock along the way added to the fun.
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19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV - with Darren Thompson | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Up to the crack is nice but not worth writing home about. A couple of moves in the offwidth crack then caused me some difficulty, and afterwards a powerful finish.
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Fri 7th Dec 2012 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I DID IT! No more dreaming about it during my sleep. I cleanly lead it from the ground up, no extra gear and topped out at the top! This is a really, really, really beautiful climb on lead. Probably the best lead you will do in Morialta! Get on it! )
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Sun 11th Nov 2012 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting thought provoking moves through a crack.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
More training for a lead ascent.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another lap.
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance | 15m | Average | ||||
Warm up
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19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams - with Peter Arcidiaco | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First time on the full route, but I have done the harder bits before.
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23 22 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct - with Peter Arcidiacio | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Actually I reckon this climb is more like 23, but I don't know anyone else who has done it.
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Wed 7th Nov 2012 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It's been a solid 6 months since I've climbed this (last time was on lead and took a mega fall from the top). Did it clean on top rope today. Feeling a lot stronger on it. Another lead attempt at this is in the near future! One of the best climbs at Mori!
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Wed 16th May 2012 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally got this on pink after taking a 3m lob on the redpoint attempt. Really nice moves onto the mini arete.
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Sun 6th May 2012 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ A Gorilla Coalition | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Should lead this one day.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One last ascent to pick up the gear.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice. A bit run-out to the first bolt.
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16 | ★ Street Legal | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
A self belay while waiting for the others.
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21 | ★ Tally-ho | ★ Good | |||||
Interesting. My chackbag touched the back wall, so does this count? 23 in the Hills Guide, but I suspect it is more like 22. Certainly 23 if you lead it.
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21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Self belay while I waited for the others.
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Tue 15th Mar 2011 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
With Michael.
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