Mostrando os 91 nodes.
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Mt Gibraltar
Mount Gibraltar is an 863 metre high mountain in the Southern Highlands Region of New South Wales. The mountain is thought to have been formed from a collapsed volcano core. The rock type is called Mount Gibraltar Trachyte, or alternatively, micro-syenite. It is the most prominent peak in the Mount Gibraltar Reserve. |
North Walls
The North Walls are a group of smaller walls located on the northern descent track. These walls include The Bat Cave, 14 Wall & Flake Wall. |
North Walls |
The Bat Cave
Located on your right as you walk down the northern descent track. Just north of Skiers Crack. |
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★ Punks on the Gib
The only route in the Bat Cave. Up to BR then to jug, move right then up past 2 BRs. DBB. |
14 Wall
Small slab wall with a mixture of trad and sports climbs. |
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Skier's Crack
A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay. Obvious from the descent gully, this was surely not missed by earlier climbers, but was never described. |
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Start at tree on far left of wall. Up past BR. Requires bolt plates for carrots |
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★ Magic (2)
Original description started at tree and traversed right, but it's better to start on the ground and mantel onto the rail. Up past BR, then juggy wall Requires bolt plates for carrots (2) |
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★ Fawkes (3)
Start just right of Two. Up past 5 BRs to chain. Rebolted August 2014 on expansions. |
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4
Right again. Up past 2 BRs to chain. |
Flake Wall
The Flake Wall is immediately (1m) right of 14 Wall and is easily identified by the flake which forms a mini-roof over all others. |
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Five
About 2m right of the double cracks. Up wall past 2 BRs to small overlap, past BR and small tree. DBB. |
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Five point five
1m right of Five, start up large flake past bolt and up to break, clip another bolt above roof then up easy slab to shared DBB |
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The Great Prawn Hunt
Up as for Four to overlap, traverse right along flake to join Six. 3BRs. |
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Six
Start as for Four. Traverse right along low flake to BR, then up and past another BR to tree. |
Chadwicks Corner
From northern end of parking area follow dirt track through boulders and straight across rock platform (20m). Rap down (10m). |
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★★ Seven
Line of bolts left of Chadwick's D.S. Bouldery start to minor lip then up, 4 RBs. Double bolt belay. Rebolted 2018 |
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★ Chadwick's Dynamic Society
Where large boulder caps the cliffline. Up closed corner, through roof, up slab. 3RBs. Double bolt belay. Rebolted 2018 |
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Chadwick's Revenge
Start 2m right of Chadwick's DS. Up layback, over roof, up slab. 3RBs. Double bolt belay. Rebolted 2018 |
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★★ A Crack Affair
Hard start. Layback up arete, followed by plenty of crack. Use the tree to mantle over the top to doubles. |
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Short and Curly
Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree. |
Main Wall
Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts the highest concentration of Hard classics at the crag. Best to do the Slab Walls descent (40m south of the lookout) and walk around. |
Main Wall |
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★★ Trubl
Thin crack on left wall of main corner. |
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★ the Italian Route
Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs. |
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★★ The Anty Climb
Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner at start (ants!), stay left on slab. 6 bolts. |
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★★ Slow Twitch
Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts. |
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★★ Slow Twitch Extension
Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top. The line of the cliff. tenuous and weird |
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★★★ Slow Gulpa
Links Slow Twitch into the top pitch of Sluj Gulpa past 1 additional bolt and a techy boulder-problem to create a 38m mega pitch from the ground. Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top. A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope. |
★★ Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT
CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa. |
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★★ Gulpa’s Gin Palace
The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa. Mantel next to trees and step right back onto face and continue to the the ledge (runout to the anchor) bolt and FH |
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★★★ Sluj Gulpa
6m right of Slow Twitch corner.
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The Access Climb
Start about 12m downhill from the massive corner (Slow Twitch) in a chimney/crack system. Up system till you can step left. Continue out sickle shaped crack to ledge and tree belay. Abseil off (dodgy tree) or continue to top via one of the many other routes. |
The base of the following routes are more directly accessed by walking down the left side of the loo
The base of the following routes are more directly accessed by walking down the left side of the lookout. Be careful when it's damp and slippery. A fixed rope from the top of Big Bird leads to an abseil point above route 14 corner. 50m to the deck from here. There is a intermediate abseil point 20m down (belay for Monsterpiece Theatre). |
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All Racked Up and Nowhere to Go
Located in the Mount Gibraltar Reserve. |
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★ Monsterpiece Theatre
Start left of Big Bird at detached block.
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Route Fourteen
Up corner past 2 carrots to pod in corner, and up to rap station. |
10 M1
★ Iron Man
Start as for Access Route.
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★★ Modern Masculinity
Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.
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★★ Modern Masculinity Top Pitch
Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak. |
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★ Offal Dredger
Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner. |
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★★ Big Bird
Start at short crack with U-bolts about 80M R of the big corner, below obvious steep layback corner.
Scramble up and left to lookout. |
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★ Comyns
Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner.
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Slab Walls
Dew can make the cliff slippery till 10am or so. Hot in summer after 12. Sizable expanse of rock separated from Main Wall by large vegetated gully. |
Slab Walls |
At the bottom of the descent rope drop down one more level to the bottom of the crag.
Turn left faci
At the bottom of the descent rope drop down one more level to the bottom of the crag. Turn left facing the cliff and walk past the cracks of The Very Easy Route Etc. Blood Magic starts at the very low point of the crag, under the prow of Big Bird. |
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★ Blood Magic
Start at the very low point of the crag.
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★★ Here be Dragons
Start at the very low point of the crag. Meanders up through the old descent gully on really cool features.
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Suicidal Dreams
Offwidth corner crack about 50m right of Access Route, 20m R of big choss gully, and 50m left of base of Descent Ramp.
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★ Onwards
Nice corner 10m R of Suicidal Dreams. Belay at rings on right (belay 2 of The very Easy Route). Done before, thought to be RRD for many years. |
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★★ Nintendo 64
3 nice pitches. Start at RRD initials, about 10m L of Gripping Yarn. P1 30m 17 Start up first few moves of RRP and left up nose to 2nd belay Very Easy Route (rings). P2 30m 17 Up friction slab above belay (stay out of the crack) then up left to Gripping Yarn second belay, left end of overlap. P3 10m 17 Up arete to hidden pockets on slab |
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★ R.R.D
About 20m right of Suicidal Dreams, groove 8m left of gripping Yarn. Marked with faint yellow paint.
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★★ Gripping Yarn
Nice slabbing with a few easy run outs. Easiest to walk down the descent ramp, the route starts up a thin crack some 35m L of the Descent Ramp. Or else 30m R of the big choss gully on the R side of the Main Wall is a fine thin crack up the face of short flake.
(P1 claimed as Mark Farrels Crack in 1997, but regularly climbed in the 70s) |
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★★ The very slightly harder route
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★★ The Very Easy Route
It's possible to wander all over the wall with many variations. This captures the best easy climbing, the pitches are short so you can watch seconds. You can easily combine P1+2, and P4+5 if you use a few slings. All rings. Follow the rings. There is one ring to rule them all.
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★★ Roomba style
Nice climbing up an old fashion slab with good but sparse gear, Climb up chimney about 6m R of Gripping Yarn (sling tree), step R and onto slab and easily straight up black streak to diagonal at 15m, good wires. Easy runout up black streak to flake, step left (good baby cams now that the paper flakes have been removed) finishing up a flared seam. There are 3 good small wire placements , take a nut tool as the crack catches bit of dirt (and reading glasses if you're old) Finishes at the top of the green rope in the Access Ramp. Technically about 16, and would have been graded 17 if it was in Booroomba |
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Maur i Rompa
Original route in the area, superseded by The Mittagong Two Step. After the 3rd BR go up the easy corner |
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★ Mittagong Two Step
Start up The Very Easy Route to the first belay or walk in along ledge. Up rightwards past 3 bolts to the smooth scoop (18) then left to the corner (optional medium cam), step left and up arete past 2 bolts. Up delicately to the belay (2 bolts, descent rope tied to one)).The first half of the pitch was originally done as Maur i Rompa |
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★ On The Shoulders Of Giants
Start on the ledge directly below the descent rope. Follow the cool little ripple up the ledge to double belay anchors. Great beginners slab route, easy to protect, easy to bail. Follow the handline to the belay bolt. |
Right Hand Side
Routes on the right hand side of the descent rope. Routes read left to right looking at the crag. Barking Knuckles starts one metre right of the descent rope. |
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★ Barking Knuckles
Three good easy pitches going leftwards up the spine of the buttress
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★ Barking Knuckles Pitch 3 Variant 1.1
Left line on the slab. Use both sides of the big flake to get onto the face. Balancy moves on good holds to get to the first FH. |
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★★ Barking Knuckles Pitch 3 Variant 2
Right line on the slab. Pass the first easy bolt and up to runnel. Up runnel and trend left. Up easy slab, around bush, easy mantel to DFH. |
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★★ Barking Knuckles Pitch 3 Crack Finish
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★ Slab Dash
Nice easy (introductory) slab climbing, 2 meters left of 'Far from the Madding Crowd'. up the short black slab to DBB and lower off. |
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★ Far from the Madding Crowd
Either abseil down from above or descend the fixed rope in the descent gulley or from bottom by following cliff around until a fixed rope is found to access start alcove. Top wall tends to be wet after rain and will seep.
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★★ The Devils Tears
Pitch 1 is the nicest moderate pitch on the mountain. Start on the same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'Road Less Travelled'. Follows the cool looking water runnel up to the mini arête and slab above.
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★★ Road Less Travelled
Starts at same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'The Devils Tears', about 5m further right.
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Single Pitch Slab.
6 metres further around the cliff is a small slab of good rock bordered on each side by a crack. The next 4 routes are good quality single pitch moderate slabs. |
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★★ Look Ma, No Hands
First route on the mini slab. Pull past horizontal break and then up to the reinforced hold. Micro holds all the way to the final over lap and jugs. |
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★★ Riding Shotgun (Underneath the Hot Sun.)
Middle of the slab. Thin moves well protected. |
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★★ Paved With Good Intentions
Right hand side of the slab. Start on the conveniently positioned old tree trunk. Pull up slab into curving crack, lay back with style and surmount the head wall with care. |
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Pioneers, rebels and mutineers.
2 metres further right. Start on the flake of rock, up the clean slab and over the overlap. Romp to top. |
The following routes are a further 10 metres along the cliff.
Pass a spear of rock leaning against
The following routes are a further 10 metres along the cliff. Pass a spear of rock leaning against the face. (Start of Mad Dogs.) |
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★★ Mad Dogs and Englishmen
Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc at a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around).
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★ Orchid Alley
Great climbing,more smearing and balance than crimping, up a clean water streak. Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc to a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around) (Mad Dogs and Englishmen). Clean black streak 6m right of squeeze. Now easier as it has cleaned up.
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Unknown Routes
The following route descriptions could not be located. If you can figure it out, let us know! Afterthought 23m (9) Halfway down descent gully on right behind wattle trees. Up slab to groove/crack, up this and wall to right, to ledge. Up between cracks. N.Wilson, N.Jacobs Dec 77 Three D 29m (15) At crack about 5m right of descent gully. Up crack to block, up right of block. Righwards onto wall and up slabs to chimney. W.Newton, N.Wilson, Dec 77 Cricket Hat 50m (12) At block leaning against cliff about 15m right of Three D. Up to tree right of blade to corner, up onto ramp to right. Up crack and wall to trees. Right onto wall and up slabs to chimney. N.Wilson, W.Newton, J.Warren Nov 77 Jwan 58m (9) At corner 5m right of Cricket Hat. Up corner and loose rock to another corner, to bushy ledge. Up slab towards crack, just below bush move right onto wall and up. N.Wilson et al Nov 77 Second Thoughts 26m (14) Behind wattle tree about 20m right of 'F'. Up wall to slab, then to trees. Up wall and slab to crack in block, left to crack, up block to top. N.Wilson Jan 78 Goat Track 45m (15) At overhanging corner and wall about 4m right of Second T. N.Wilson, W.Newton Dec 77 |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering
WIP |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering |
North West Boulders
WIP Boulder field. Above Slab Walls Great potential |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering North West Boulders |
Spray Wall
The southern end of the wall right below the road. |
V1
Mountain Goat
Feet only. Straight up, top out. |
V0-
★ Warm Up Laps
Pick one course of bricks each, for you hands and feet and stick to it, doing laps counter clockwise. Pockets mark the edges. No Top. |
V0
Crack Prac
Stand start, hands can only use the three slits, top out. |
V1
The Little Dyno
Both hands on jug, start to finish dyno, top out. |
V3
The Big Dyno
Both hands on start the brick with the pocket, start to finish dyno, top out. |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering |
South West Boulders
WIP Boulder field. Across the road from the radio tower substation. A handful of climbs currently being projected. |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering South West Boulders |
V3
Gerber
On the left of 'Roadside Acracktion' Start with one hand on each side pull and a heel hook next to your left hand, traverse up the crimp crack to top out |
V2
★ Roadside Acracktion
Sit start with both hands in the crack, up the crack to top out. Base rock is out of bounds |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering |
Eastern Boulders
Two good freestanding boulders covered in chalk marks and one wall with promise. |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering Eastern Boulders |
V6
Broken Wattle
Sit start, working your way to the right then finally up and back to top out. Setter unknown, best reading of the chalk. Grade unconfirmed V5-V7? |
V5
Mudscarf
I think the best reading of the chalk is sit starting on the far right and traversing all the way along to the left. Unconfirmed grade |
V1
★ Mad Hatter
Sit start with both hands in the crack reach up with the let then work your way up and back along the flake. |
Mt Gibraltar Bouldering |
Northern Boulders
WIP The biggest and most underutilized boulders on the GIB. Lots of potential. Hard grade chalk marks and gluing present. |
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