Vias em Mt. Greville

A fairly sustained climb of good length (940 feet). the rock is very good apart from the first two pitches, but the runners are few and far between.

NOTE: This route was originally measured in feet, take lengths in metres with some salt.

Start: In middle of main north face, left of yellow overhang, D on rock.

1. 35m (11) Up 25 feet [7m] to tree, traverse right 40 feet [12m] to larger tree, up right to small ledge and peg belay (left in).

2. 20m (5) Tend right up dirty corner to large blocks and platform, cracker belay.

3. 30m (8) Left around corner into chimney, up chimney, exit right to block belay.

4. 40m (11) Up right to smooth slab, traverse right then bridge up steep corner and tend left on beautiful rock to bush belay.

5. 35m (16) Over easy rock for 30 feet (10m) to base of wall, straight up on small holds to blank wall, strenuous move up using peg for direct aid, now climb straight up until level with tree on right, then desperate traverse right to ledge.

6. 25m (14) Straight up for 40 feet (12m) then hard traverse left to little gum tree on small ledge, peg belay.

7. 40m (12) Down 15 feet (5m), traverse left for 20 feet (5m), now straight up slabs and small walls to tree belay on 2nd veranda.

8. 20m (5) Up terraced slabs, short layback tending left below block and tree belay.

9. 35m (9) Right and up to corner, tricky move then straight up over easier rock to tree belay. Scramble up 50 feet to the summit

An easy two pitch at the left end of the main face to the first verandah.

1. -m (10) Up a groove to ledge and good tree belay.

2. -m (10) Left and up groove to tree belay on first terrace.

Follow the obvious seam in the middle of the streak with OK pro.

It is a bit run out past the 10 meter mark.

Climb on to mallions.

A little caution should be applied to this one.

Start: This climb runs up a crack in a dark streak of rock.

It is directly off the track 150-200m downstream from the actual Grey Wall on the right.

Up steps to slab and FH. Step right and up to FH then continue up passing another 3 FH. A couple of tricky moves for the exit and balance to mallions. Start: The first climb on the left at the Grey Wall

Up wall on good edges to jug and FH. Tend up and right over ramped ledge to FH. Continue up into corner passing 2 more FH. and jug over lip. Mantle and on to mallions.

A more logical variant to the previous line. Up on sloppers to black FH. Continue up to Pokey's second FH and on.

Up onto ramp using ordinary holds to FH. Fight gravity to get into the narrow corner and 2nd FH (crux). Climb above the 2nd FH out of the canopy and enjoy the view. Bridge and mantle some more past another 2 FH. Another mantle and up easy slab to mallions. Pretty stiff for the grade.

Up fine seam left of bulge to FH. Then up corner above passing another 2 FH. Exit right under small roof to FH and big jug. Then run it out a little up to mallions.

A line of FHs between Scorpion and Fast Cars. More info would be great!

Up wall on sloppers to high FH and onward. Mantle ledge to FH and up headwall tending left past 2 FH. The large rings are to your right.

Bouldery start. Carefully to 2nd FH. Go left? to hidden bolts, corner and mallions? Start: Starts in shallow corner

Start as for 'Bongo' for the first few clips, traverse right into 'Pick Pocket' to clip, then up greasy corner to mallions.

Thin holds to start, up over pocketed face. Crank over ledge to 3rd FH and up greasy short bit to mallions.

Up wall on thin pockets and edges to low FH. Staying out of the low corner climb the face on excellent edges and pockets past 7 FH. Then on to mallions. Wandering up and left with great moves on good holds Past final 3 FH and tend left around into a well hidden corner. You will find the mallions here. Can be done as a single pitch. Start: On the opposite side of the gorge roughly in line with 'Scorpion'

Belay from the ledge and not the ground, it's a long 30m. Without clipping any FH on Ain't No Sunshine. Stay in the corner and climb it on good holds passing 2 FH. Continue up tending left on quite thin edges and pockets. Past another 5 FH. Continue up and left. Another two FH and good holds up to mallions. Start: Left of Ain't No Sunshine

Swing hard left from the belay to FH and up into corner to FH.

Committing moves to FH and good rest.

Sustained layback and gaston moves straight past 5 FH.

Exit right on jugs to rings.

Long standing project.

Many more routes in this area. Some info would be great!

Accessed via Fast Cars

Short and silly trad route on the very far left of the crag. Up to chockstone trying to avoid using the tree, find the jugs to get onto the ledge and stroll on up to the trees.

Start: First ugly loose crack as you walk in.

Start on strong moves to a hidden rest, then it’s a technical pumpfest to the finish line.

Through the brutal overhang on a variety of holds then fight through the difficult bulge to the top

Bolt line to the right of quicky mart, uses all its own holds. Tricky beta to a brutal exit out the roof.

Right hand side of the quicky mart overhangs.

Start on the yellowy green streaks, then tend slightly left to our super scary indescribable crux. You have to be Homer dumb to take this trip as it will leave you a little mentally disturbed.

Climb through a small overhang in a corner on some crusty holds.

Make your way up just left of the first 2FH’s, then continue straight up to the anchors.

Up easy slab past 3 FH to chains.

Start: Left of "Maggies Dummy Spit".

Up face of detached pillar on good holds to FH. A bunch of brutal moves takes you past the final 2 FH. Carefully exit left over easy terrain to find a pair of mallions.

Start: Near the large boulder.

Another brutal little unit up the right hand side of the small roof.

Start: 1m left of Lisa, in behind the tree.

Stunning corner in the center of the crag

Very technical bridging up to the 3rd bolt.

Followed by scary and brutal face climbing.

The impressive line up the arete.

High first bolt, start up corner just right of homer. Uber thin face climbing.

Up the corner over ledges passing 2 FH's. A brutal move or two past a 3rd FH gets you up to the anchor.

Climb 'Snowball' to the 3rd FH, then swing around the arete. Forget about the bolt in front of you (creates brutal z drag) and just go up over easy terrain to chains.

A brutal little affair. Climb up the arete passing two FH's. A few exciting moves takes you to the 3rd. Head right to the final Fh and easily up to anchor.

Nice moves on jugs up into corner. Scramble up fern grotto to finish up 'Marge' from the 4th hanger.

Start: Start 1m left of Itchy & Scratchy

Brutal ugly thrash onto ledge. Up fern grotto to finish up 'Marge' from the 4th hanger.

Start: Left of 'Marge LHV'

Fairly brutal for the grade. Ramble up the ledges on the left side of 'Marge'. From the 4th bolt go left to find the mallions.

Start: Left of 'Marge'

Originally graded 19. Work the thin and technical sequence on the right side of the bolts.

Start: Far right of crag

Start: Just right of the impressive rock spire housing The Imperial Wizard. Thin fingers needed for the thin crack at the top. Stick clipping might not be a bad idea. Chains beneath the overhang.

Start: 1m right of The Warden.

Start: 3m right of TM. Up corner past 4 FH's. Trend right past 5th FH to chains.

Start: 2m right of The Excavator. Up passing 5 FHs, to same chains as TE.

Start: Directly below the impressive finger of rock (see cover photo), about 8m right of "CK". Both wizards share the same 2 start bolts.

Up to 2nd FH, then trend right up the wizard. Take some long runners.

You can lower-off using a 70m rope with a few meters to spare.

Start: Directly below the impressive finger of rock (see cover photo above). About 8m right of "CK".

Up the left side of the impressive and rather phallic looking wizard.

13 FHs to the top, chains and U-bolt at the anchor. Lower off using a 70m with a few meters to spare.

The crack 8m left (up the slope) of IP, initialed "CK". The only trad line here. Follow the crack-line up. Tree belay. Recommended you use tape or gloves, due to the sharp crystalline nature of the crack.

Start: 10m left, up the slope, from "CK". A solid little unit.

Start: A few metres left of The Navigator, the big crack & root below the fig tree. Monkey up the tree root to very high first FH, then past another 3 FHs to anchor at tree. There is a plethora of trad gear + you can sling the tree root.

Start: 3m left of RC. Up passing 4 FHs, then diagonally right under the orchids towards the fig tree root, clipping the last FH on RC. Shares the same chains as RC. A few long runners for the 3rd, 4th & 5th bolts would be advisable to reduce rope drag.

Start: just around the corner as you arrive at the block/cliff.

(Note: there are trad options available on this route, if one so chooses.)

Start: 5m left of The Communist, below the column in front of the tree.

(Note: there are a plethora of trad gear options on this route, if one wishes.)

Start: 5m left of The Fascist, behind two bushes, has a vine running up half its length.

10 FHs to anchors and heaps of trad gear options available, in addition to the vine.

Start: 5m left of The Capitalist, just right of a small bush.

Up to the chains. The blank section above cuts this route short.

Note: the 2nd bolt is in decking out territory, but there are plenty of trad gear options available, if one so chooses.

Start: 2m right of Short Ganged, on the other side of the bush.

Note: there is a bounty of trad gear placements on this route, if one so chooses.

Start: 2M left of AFITF, next to the fig tree root.

The temptation to use the tree root is great, but it soon runs out, and then you have to show your true colours in any case.

A thin crack on the left, offers some additional protection for the first 8-9m.

Two well spaced FH and mallions on steep, slightly overhanging wall. (bolts have since been chopped, only the first FH remains)

From start of waterfall gorge scramble up onto vegetated ledge and walk to the rock From the ridge proper walk R approx 10m to grey water mark Up crack system left hand side of grey water mark over ledges At deep V groove head around to the L and up easy slab to small hollow Over hollow and L to tree belay Scramble up onto ridge proper and traverse narrow ridge to top