A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Emmanuel Madayag Blake Muir FabianSchuelke Cameron C Kate Ferguson Tomás Briones López Arthur Schultz James saunders Alie Repetto Jaime Williams
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Mudgee and Surounds
140 in Area
-
1.1.
Geology Crag 140 in Area
-
1.1.1.
Hillside 70 in Sector
- 1.1.1.1. Silicified Boulder 16 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.2. Baka Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.3. Pinch Out Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.4. The Bowlder / The Caldera Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.5. Hornfels boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.6. Crack Lovers Area / Fault Zone 7 in Area
- 1.1.1.7. Stratum 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.8. Lichen Boulder 2 in Boulder
-
1.1.1.9.
The Atoll 13 in Field
- 1.1.1.9.1. The Fold / The Chimney 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.9.2. Flatiron 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.9.3. Two Sisters 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.9.4. Tilted Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.9.5. Massive Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.9.6. The Pint 3 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.10. NorthWest Zone 10 in Area
- 1.1.1.11. Megalodon 2 in Boulder
-
1.1.2.
Plateau 43 in Sector
- 1.1.2.1. Meteor Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.2. Petrified Logs Boulder 10 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.3. Pore Boulder / PB 11 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.4. Listric Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.5. Microscope Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.6. Kinematics Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.7. Alcove Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.8. Crust Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.9. Pyritic Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.2.10. Pebbles Boulder 1 in Area
-
1.1.3.
Cryptic 27 in Sector
- 1.1.3.1. Collins Boulder 7 in Boulder
- 1.1.3.2. Perigee 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.3.3. Crescent 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.3.4. Palus 0 in Boulder
- 1.1.3.5. Zenith 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.3.6. Moon Boulders 15 in Area
- 1.1.3.7. Outer Space / Outer Moon 2 in Area
-
1.1.1.
Hillside 70 in Sector
-
1.1.
Geology Crag 140 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mudgee and Surounds 140 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.593829, 149.741835
sumário
Mudgee is a town 3 hours northwest of Sydney in New South Wales, Australia. It's known for its colonial buildings. The surrounding countryside has dozens of wineries.
questões de acesso
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
1.1. Geology Crag 140 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.429097, 149.820714
- Environment:
- Munghorn Gap National Park is home to some sensitive flora and fauna species. Please be mindful when cleaning or exploring new boulders and stay on the developing tracks where they exist (it'll be nicer for you too). Only clean areas of the boulder which require cleaning. There is no need to clean the entire boulder, only areas where holds are. Please avoid using wire brushes wherever possible so that the sandstone of the area is not damaged. Lichen in almost all cases can be removed easily with a stiff bristled brush like a grout brush with a follow up with a soft bristle brush or bouldering brush to remove loose material.
- Rubbish and Litter
- The area is currently very clean from litter but you may come across litter on the side of the road. There has also been past prospecting, blacksmithing, mining, travel and grazing in the area by early European settlers. Therefore its not unusual to come in contact with some old relics from these times. In most cases this will be old glass bottles, rusty food tins, metal or cans. These can be removed and disposed of presuming its not anything of obvious significance or importance. If you see rubbish, please remove it when you leave. It goes without saying to take all your rubbish with you.
- Aboriginal Sites:
- Munghorn Gap National Park still is and was an important location to Aboriginal people. Climbers should be cognisant and respectful of this by avoiding putting up routes/problems around identified Aboriginal Sites. Always perform a visual check of the rock first to ensure it doesn't contain any Aboriginal artwork. A search has been taken with the Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System to ensure that sectors are not being developed near currently identified Aboriginal sites. Click Here for a map of the currently recorded closest Aboriginal sites (shown with a yellow dot) which are closest to the Crag. Please give these areas a wide birth when setting up or exploring for new sectors. A map of the current sectors of the Crag (as of Jan 2022) has been overlaid as a reference.
- Fences & Private Property:
- You may come across old fence wire or fence posts. If around the existing Crag, these are remnants from when areas were previously used for grazing. Please be aware that private property lies south just of the Crag and in the case of the south side of the Hillside sector, just over the road. Please refer to the Geology Crag Noteworthy Boundaries & Sites map and avoid these areas altogether. For the latest boundaries of the area, the NSW Spatial Information Exchange website is a great reference. You can also change the map layers on the crag to show the boundaries by selecting the OSM or Terrain (Esri) option.
- Chalk:
- Please be sensible with the amount of chalk that you use on the holds and try to only use as much as you need. Many of the boulders are exposed to the weather and the chalk tends to wash off almost completely in the next good rain. That being said, it's always good practice to give your holds a quick brush to clean any excess chalk before you leave a problem. Especially if its protected from the weather or if you wont be returning to it anytime soon.
sumário
Free standing boulders of varying size and rock quality. Currently being developed by local climbers.
Note: There's patchy reception at the top of the hills/cliffs, but best to load guides/etc. prior
descrição
For a quick list of the top climbs and projects in the area, check out the list
Shoalhaven group coarse grain to lithic sandstone
questões de acesso
acesso
Follow Ulan road out of Mudgee for about 10 minutes before turning right onto Wollar road. Follow this road for 10-15 minutes. Once you've seen Cooyal Hotel you're close . Parking for Hillside is on the newly widened shoulder right next to the Silicified Boulder. Parking for the Plateau is a bit further on in the huge shoulder on the other side of the road. Parking for Cryptic is further along still, but before the left bend
Alternative: Put Cooyal Hotel into your GPS then drive 2 minutes further up.
onde ficar
Mudgee is the closest large town and is 20 minutes drive. Closer accommodation includes Cooyal Hotel and the Farmer's Quarters on Ulan road. Cooyal hotel is a classic little country pub only 2 minutes drive away with great food and free camping for customers. Visit the Cooyal Hotel website for more information
ética
All projects listed or found are open!
If you're looking for new areas, it's preferable to head to the North or East of the established sectors, to keep a distance from any private property.
história
Some historic sports routes have been found on the cliffs behind The Plateau sector but no information was available. Re-discovered by David in 2017 who put up a few routes on the Silicified Boulder. Later shown to the more boulder oriented Emmanuel Madayag .
Blake Muir and Jen M also contributed significantly, creating the maps, a lot of the photo topos, and geolocating most of the boulders. Without them, this guide would be significantly worse.
1.1.1. Hillside 70 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.431714, 149.819813
descrição
Boulders on the Uphill side of Wollar Road
acesso
Park in the shoulder near the Silicified Boulder.
história
The first area developed, predominantly by Shane and Emmanuel. The excellent easier problems on the Stratum boulder were found and cleaned by Blake
1.1.1.1. Silicified Boulder 16 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432770, 149.819630
descrição
The large silicified boulder close to the road and parking. Strangely silicified on one face
história
First spotted by David Biggs 3 years before he showed Emmanuel. Most likely climbed on before.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Southern Fried Arete
Sit start on two chunky side pulls move up to nice clean set of crimps and then traverse right around to arete. Finish matched on the large overhanging sloper block. FA: nathaniel glavurdic, 9 Sep 2023 | V5 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★★★ FIFO / The Odyssey
Sit start on bottom left of face on sidepull crimps and climb up and right into Mohs to finish as for that problem. FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 20 Jan 2022 | V9 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ Mohs / Rubik's
Standstart on opposing vertical pinches in middle of face and move up easy compression before a difficult traverse up and right on the slippery slopers to finish up some hard moves to crimps and side pulls. Top out Take a grade off if you kneebar for the mantle FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 30 Mar 2021 | V7 | 4m | |||||
4 |
Silly Con Proj
Sit start on crimps and up big/hard moves into the end of Mohs. Appropriate footholds yet to be discovered | 3m | ||||||
5 |
★★ Thunder
Start as for Mohs but exiting halfway at the triangle jug to easy topout FA: Shane Yates, 2022 | V4/5 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ Artifact / Historic Jug Climb
Sit start on huge jug and up big moves on good ledges to finish matched on jug to the right just to the left of Sheer Terror. Top out optional but adds a lot of fun and not much difficulty. Probably climbed many times and with many variations but found with chalk on it in 2017 | V3 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ Sheer Terror
Up the scoop. Weirdly off balance and scary FA: David Biggs, 2021 | V0 | 4m | |||||
8 |
★★ Attack of the froggy
Sit start on left jug side pull and lowest right crimp. Climb up and over the Arete. FA: Cameron C, 27 May 2023 | V3 | 3m | |||||
9 |
Traverse Proj 2
Mid height traverse from the left arete to the jugs on the far right of the boulder. Sharp holds | |||||||
10 |
★★ Holes of mystery
Stand start up cool moves on juggy pockets to a tough topout on juggy slopers. Make sure to thoroughly clean out the holes first FA: David Biggs, 2021 | V1 | 3m | |||||
11 |
★ Spherulite
Crouch start on broken left crimp and right hand crimp. Left into slot crimp and then up through slopers FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V3 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ Spherulite Sit
Sit start on left broken crimp and right hand on terrible sloper. Hard deadpoint into start of crouch start FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V5 | 3m | |||||
13 |
★ Healing Crystals
Sit start to the right of Spherulite Sit and up cool slopers with a cool foot cam FA: Jaime Williams, 2023 | V4/5 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★★ The Sneaky Snake
Sit start to the left of Bootylicious, climbing into the same exit FA: 2022 | V4 | 3m | |||||
15 |
★★ Bootylicious
Stand/crouch start on flat edge and include crimp. Move up through slopers to juggy slopers into slab with tufas. Very cool Located on back of the Silicified Boulder. To the right of the downclimb. FA: Shane Yates, 2022 | V3 | 4m | |||||
16 |
★★ Devitrified
Start as for Artifact, reversing Mohs traverse into the top of Thunder FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 12 Jul 2023 | V6 | 4m |
1.1.1.2. Baka Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432721, 149.819912
descrição
Boulder on the shoulder at the parking spot with "Baka" in blue graffiti (hard to read)
acesso
Park in front of the Silicified Boulder if coming from Mudgee and Baka will be visible right on the road-side in front of you. Hard to Miss.
história
Climbed by Shane and Emmanuel when the road was closed on one end and there was no thru-traffic.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Idiot
Stand start on good crimps below ledge. Up and mantle onto ledge before second easier mantle. Sketchy landing FA: Shane Yates, 2022 | V2 R | 3m | |||||
2 |
Stupid Idiot
Cramped sit start on left edge and right jug. Moving up some good edges to top out jug. Sketchy landing FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2022 | V5 R | 3m |
1.1.1.3. Pinch Out Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432226, 149.820102
acesso
Head right from the Silicified Boulder to the next big boulder.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pinch Out
Sit start on two sidepulls and move up through slopey pinches and slopers to top out straight up. FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V4 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Pinch Out Stand
Stand start on sloper FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Arete Proj / Hard as Schist
Stand start on good left hand and less good 2 finger pocket with poor feet and up left arete with big moves and bad holds. Stick to the arete as the face holds are a bit chossy | 4m | ||||||
4 |
Face Proj Direct
Direct start to Face Proj | |||||||
5 |
Face Climb Proj
Stand start on broken face hold and right hand jug on hanging flake. Up and left with interesting beta on some suspect holds to cool ironstone pockets before topping out. | 4m | ||||||
6 |
★★ Intrusion
Stand start on broken pinch. Up and left to big gutter FA: Shane Yates, 2022 | V3 | ||||||
|
1.1.1.4. The Bowlder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432311, 149.819809
descrição
Round boulder with a large bowl on the top
acesso
Directly uphill from the Pinch Out Boulder.
história
First v5 established in Mudgee
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pahoehoe
Sit start on jugs to the left of the Caldera, and up fun moves on jug rail. Very good FA: Louise Howarth, 2021 | V2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★★ The Caldera
Sit start on crimps and climb up and right to lip of the bowl to top out up FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V5 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Eruption
Cool dyno from left hand and crimp right hand undercling to jug on peak of boulder FA: Shane Yates, 2022 | V3 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★★ Volcano
Start as for Caldera finishing with the Eruption dyno FA: Shane Yates, 2022 | V5 | 3m |
1.1.1.5. Hornfels boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432109, 149.820102
descrição
Large boulder next to the Pinch Out Boulder with a tree currently leaning on it
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hornfels Proj
Big move from slopey pinch gaston to jug over sketchy landing. Topout looks very hard | |||||||
2 |
★★ Siderite
Stand start on good side pull and move up and right to mantle onto slab to top out. Pick your feet well FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 21 Aug 2021 | V5 | 4m |
1.1.1.6. Crack Lovers Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.429804, 149.820421
sumário
Smaller area with the classic Crack Lovers, and some potential for more
acesso
Park on wide left shoulder if coming from Mudgee. Parking for this boulder is 200m uphill from the silicified boulder. You can walk to this boulder along the hillside area if you are parked at the silicified boulder but for ease it's best to drive from silicified boulder parking spot to this shoulder and park. Boulder and the crack is visible from the road approx 25m up the hill from the road.
história
Found by Tomas Briones Lopez after a misunderstanding of the approach to the Plateau, who is so good at crack climbing that he did it in approach shoes.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pop Up Slab
Smaller boulder just in front of Crack Lovers facing the road. Stand start and pop up slab. Fun one mover FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 18 Sep 2022 | V0 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Crack Lovers
Sit start in crack on 2 finger jams and jam/layback up crack to some proper palm jamming up top. FA: Tomás Briones López, 2022 | V5/6 | 5m | |||||
3 |
Arete Proj
Up the blunt arete on the right of Crack Lovers. Looks moderate | 4m | ||||||
4 |
★ Offset
Stand start on jug and undercling and up big move on decent holds to a struggle in the offwidth crack to mantle. Feels desperate FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Sep 2022 | V4 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Traverse Fault
Sit start at start of The Hanging Wall Proj and traverse left on worsening crimps into the start of Offset to finish as for that problem FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Sep 2022 | V8 | 3m | |||||
6 |
Natural Science proj
Left side of the face | |||||||
7 |
The Hanging Wall Proj
Tall, overhanging, striking boulder. Looks to be vhard | 5m |
1.1.1.7. Stratum 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432734, 149.819337
descrição
Rectangular rock with lowside cave and highside overhang feature
acesso
Uphill and to the left of the Silicified Boulder
história
Found and cleaned by Blake
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Angel In Realtime
Stand start inside cave with under cling, move around to the right and up the face. Avoid using top-side edge during climb. FA: Blake Muir, 5 Mar 2022 | V1 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★★ Expert in a Dying Field
Sit start on jugs and up to finish as for Angel in Realtime FA: Blake Muir, 5 Mar 2022 | V0 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ 6th Avenue
Sit start on crimp ledge and up slab via edge ladder FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2023 | VB | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ 7th Avenue
Sit start on jugs of 8th Avenue then up slab to the left via palm press and crimps FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2023 | V0 | 2m | |||||
5 |
★★ 8th Avenue
Sit start, climb up face to top out, lots of nice jugs up top to use FA: Blake Muir, 11 Mar 2022 | V1 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Capricorn Dancer
Sit start in front of the cave on the lower side of the Boulder. Traverse up all the way up and around linking up with 8th Avenue to top out. FA: Blake Muir, 11 Mar 2022 | V3 | 12m |
1.1.1.8. Lichen Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432928, 149.819352
descrição
Cool 2.5m tall boulder with some nice face climbing leading to mantle cruxes
acesso
Uphill and slightly to the left from the Silicified Boulder to a boulder stack. Climbing is on eastern face (perpendicular to the road)
história
Found and cleaned by Shane
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Are you lichen at me / Hole of Glory
Cramped sit start on 2 pockets and up face to the right on good crimps and edges to crux move up top slapping to jug hole FA: Shane Yates, 1 Mar 2022 | V2/3 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★ Lichenthrope
Same start as Hole of Glory, but up and left to more difficult mantle. Very cool FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 1 Mar 2022 | V3 | 3m |
1.1.1.9. The Atoll 13 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.432434, 149.819353
sumário
Striking area of boulders at the base of the cliff line with a range of climbing for all levels.
descrição
Features striking highballs, arete, technical face climbs and smaller fun projects for new climbers
acesso
Up hill and slightly to the right of the Silicified Boulder. Area is at the top of the hill at the base of the cliff line.
história
Area discovered and first developed By Emmanuel Madayag
1.1.1.9.1. The Fold 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.432516, 149.819434
descrição
Interesting little boulder with a 90 degree corner/feature to start. A fun, challenging but safe and technical little climb.
acesso
Approx halfway up the hill between Silicified Boulder and the Massive Boulder.
história
Discovery by Emmanuel Madayag
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ In the Fold / 191
Crouch start on left of boulder. Traverse right and up through cool corner to mantle crux FA: Shane Yates, 16 Feb 2022 | V2/3 | 2m |
1.1.1.9.2. Flatiron 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.432341, 149.819514
descrição
Striking 5m Tall Arete style boulder.
acesso
Walk uphill and to the right from from massive boulder. Flatiron is in the Atoll area just past the Two Sisters boulders. Hard to miss.
história
Original Discovery By Emmanuel Madayag
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Flat Iron Plate
Crouch start matched on good pocket then up slab before a pretty epic palm press to finish. Don't use arete for assistance. FA: Blake Muir, 26 Jan 2022 | V2 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★★ Scandi Grind
Stand start on high side of 5m arete and climb up using good jugs on arete to top out. FA: Blake Muir, 26 Jan 2022 | V1 | 5m | |||||
3 |
Other Arete Proj
Stand start up Scandi Grind's downhill side | 6m | ||||||
4 |
Arete Trav Proj
Up right hand side arete to the underhung section, traverse left along small horizontal crack and then up the vertical crack in the centre | 5m |
1.1.1.9.3. Two Sisters 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.432366, 149.819366
descrição
Two small thimble like boulders. Larger of the two is really the only one worth considering. Probably only good for some sit start problems, orbit traverse's or general endurance loops. Most problems set on this would be in the v0-2 range.
acesso
Close to the cliff face in between the Massive Boulder and Flatiron. Hard to miss, a natural game trail should take you right past them.
história
This area was discovered by Emmanuel Madayag. The potential of these two as boulder problem recommended by Jen M
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Micro Thimble Orbit Traverse Proj
Sit start on uphill side of largest boulder. Orbit traverse the largest of the two sister thimble boulders counter-clockwise. Don't use the top during traverse. Holds have been cleaned but not yet sent. Maybe v4? | 2m |
1.1.1.9.4. Tilted Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
descrição
Moderate sized oblong shaped boulder just past the chimney.
Features off balance board climbing on slopey holds
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Tilted
Stand start on good flat (left leaning) edges and make big move up to some bad slopers. Quite an off balance climb Don't use any of the pebbles in the thin band, they're highly likely to come out FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Feb 2023 | V6 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★ Sit Down Before You Get Tilted
Sit start on slopey right and and good left hand with cramped feet. A couple hard hand and foot moves into the start of Tilted FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 12 Jul 2023 | V8 | 3m | |||||
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1.1.1.9.5. Massive Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.432485, 149.819194
descrição
Huge round boulder with a couple potential classics
acesso
Uphill and to the right slightly from the the Silicified boulder. Large slightly overhanging face visible
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Supermassive Proj
Sit start in cave and up and out arete to climb left to difficult mantle and slab. Needs some more cleaning. ~V8+ | |||||||
2 |
Semi-massive proj
Face climb. Not much down low with a decent looking hold halfway up. Holds look a bit sus. |
1.1.1.9.6. The Pint 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.432308, 149.819237
descrição
Highball boulder with several lines for bold climbers. Reasonably well featured and slightly obtuse but most problems will be very hard and dangerous due to the length and height of the climb.
acesso
Tucked up right against the cliff line on your left in between the Massive Boulder and Two Sisters.
história
Area discovered by Emmanuel Madayag
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Off Width Proj
Highball offwidth for first half then transition onto left hand side arete and up to large dish/cave topping out via the centre. Needs cleaning. | 10m | ||||||
2 |
Face Climb Proj
Stand start and straight up the face. Highball. Needs cleaning. Landing okish but needs a bit of cleanup. | 10m | ||||||
3 |
Right Face Proj
Super highball. Stand start up right hand side of Pint via the sheered face. Top out. Needs cleaning. Landing is very sketchy. | 10m |
1.1.1.10. NorthWest Zone 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.431610, 149.819761
sumário
Mix of big cliff lines and less big boulders above them
Home to a classic hard line, classic easy line, and the potential for a lot more
acesso
Sector starts along the cliff line past Hornfels Boulder. Follow this cliff around the corner and up the hill to find the rest
história
One of the first areas showed to Emmanuel by Dave. He was then too lazy to go back for 2 years
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Very tall arete proj
Up very tall sharp arete. Looks not too bad but needs a scrub | 7m | ||||||
2 |
Also very tall arete proj
Slightly shorter but still tall rounded arete proj | |||||||
3 |
★★★ Witwatersrand
Sit start on jug and undercling. Hard start to easier and interesting finish Recommend at least 2 pads and good spotter so you don't fall off the ledge/cliff FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 5 Sep 2023 | V9 R | 5m | |||||
4 |
★★★ The BIF
Stand start on right hand undercling left hand nice crimps. Up via compression and face holds to slightly tricky mantle up left. Highly suggest at least 2-3 pads and a spotted or not falling at the top FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 12 Sep 2023 | V3 R | 5m | |||||
5 |
Arete proj
Sit start on jug, up jugs on arete. Looks good and easy | 3m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Face proj
Big move from jug up interesting face feature | |||||||
7 |
Sloper lip proj
Sit start sloper lip traverse | |||||||
8 | Slab proj | |||||||
9 |
★★ Karst Arete
Sit start on left hand crimp right hand sloper on arete and move up and left FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 12 Sep 2023 | V5 | 3m | |||||
10 | Face proj |
1.1.1.11. Megalodon 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.431867, 149.820303
descrição
Shark tooth shaped highball boulder with a large sheer face on the uphill side. Downhill side features a rounded slab climb which turns vertical at the top. Very high, very hard.
acesso
From the Hornfels Boulder take the single track North (road will be on your right). You will come to a small cliff section on your left. Megalodon is just downhill to your right.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hero Climb Proj
Right up the middle of the face. Some nice features but very high. Landing is ok. Downclimb is sketchy or non existent so bring a ladder. Face needs cleaning and is a bit chossy. | 7m | ||||||
2 |
Face Climb Proj
Almost featureless face climb lower down. Lower holds yet to be found. Gets steeper towards to top. Super highball climb. No down climb visible so bring a ladder. | 9m |
1.1.2. Plateau 43 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.428519, 149.822085
descrição
Boulders in the downhill side of Wollar road.
acesso
Boulders are ~50m in from the road. They are listed as you see them walking down the path from the entrance except the Meteor Boulder, which is visible from the track
1.1.2.1. Meteor Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.427726, 149.822396
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Other Arete Proj
Looks slightly more doable but still tall and blank | |||||||
2 |
Arete proj
Looks doable but very tall and hard |
1.1.2.2. Petrified Logs Boulder 10 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
descrição
Smallish boulder on the left walking into the crag. Large amount of fallen trees and branches around it following the floods
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Easy slab proj
Easy slab up first groove | 2m | ||||||
2 |
★★ Geology is STEM
Start 2 hands on right wall and stem up corner to a fun mantle, staying in the first groove FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 3 May 2023 | V3 | 2m | |||||
3 |
Arete proj
Up side pull on arete via big moves maybe | 3m | ||||||
4 |
Face Proj / Old Amber
Start as for Petrified Crimps but moving left across face via shoulder move | 3m | ||||||
5 |
★★ Petrified Crimps
Crouch start on crimps up face FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 17 May 2023 | V4 | 3m | |||||
6 |
Mantle proj
Stand start on flat jug and up left | 2m | ||||||
7 |
Other arete proj
Up the other face of balancing rock eliminating the big jug | 2m | ||||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Balancing Rock
Crouch start on left hand arete and right hand bad sloper. Hard tension move then to the lip FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 25 Apr 2023 | V6 | 2m | |||||
9 |
Balancing rock sit proj
Sit on lower sloper then climb into terrible start position of balancing rock | 2m | ||||||
10 |
★ Coprolite
Sit start on bad sloper crimp thing and hard cross to another sloper crimp thing before busting right to good horn near lip. FA used a bicycle on the arete FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 3 May 2023 | V6 | 2m |
1.1.2.3. Pore Boulder 11 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.428335, 149.821949
descrição
Large boulder next to the Listric Boulder. Climbing is on overhanging face on other side. Features great board climbing on good rock and interesting features
Best way to get down is to unmantle above Lythophysa and drop off or bring a ladder.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Discovery
Stand start on opposing good sidepulls and up via face compression with a bit of stem feet. Mega FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 12 Jul 2023 | V5 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★★ The Sloper Prospect
Stand start on opposing poor slopers with hooks or poor feet. Up via good and bad holds to a final big throw. Mantle up left Sit start maybe possible v10+ FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 12 Jul 2023 | V8 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Pathfinder Proj
Sit start to Silver Prospect | |||||||
4 |
★★ Stone Cold
Stand start on sloper and head up and left through techy and powerful moves to top out. Sitstart adds a couple fun moves on jugs FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Sep 2021 | V6 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ You Can't See Me / The Peoples Line Direct
Stand start in heuco and head directly up via small crimps and undercling. Bit of an eliminate FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 1 Aug 2023 | V8 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★★★ The People's Line / Hollow-cene
Start at stone cold and climb up and right through small crimps to top out above Director's Special FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 22 Sep 2021 | V7 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Nutso Bongo / Director's Special Stand
Stand start on 2 sharp crimps before crux move to pinch of Director's Special. FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 13 Jan 2022 | V9 | 4m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Director's Special / Tuff Proj
Squat start on good side pulls and up burly compression on small holds. Super sick FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 13 Jan 2022 | V11 | 4m | |||||
9 |
Stone Cold Sit
Sit start at Directors Special and move up and left into Stone Cold via small sharp crimps. Hard | 4m | ||||||
10 |
People's Line Sit / Peripheral to the Zone
Sit start at Directors Special and up to the left to start of The People's Line to finish as per that problem. Hard | 4m | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Lythophysa
Stand start on big underclings in interesting feature and up big moves via compression on crimps and slopers. Very fun IMPORTANT - Beta changed after an important hold broke Emmanuel Madayag (Original FA) FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 Apr 2021 | V8 | 4m |
1.1.2.4. Listric Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.428316, 149.822043
descrição
Tall, striking boulder you see at the start of the sector
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Listric Arete
Up the awesome arete. Graded to include the sketchy downclimb (otherwise it's V1) FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V2 R | 5m | |||||
2 |
★★ Analogous Arete
Stand start left hand on bottom of runnel/jug and right hand in hole, and up the arete. Very nice moves Lower start with left hand on sloper goes at V3, but not as nice FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 1 Aug 2023 | V2 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Interesting Feature proj
Start on bottom horn thing and up interesting feature | 2m |
1.1.2.5. Microscope Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.428889, 149.821947
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ PPL
Stand start on crimps and up face FA: Louise Howarth, 2021 | V2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★ XPL
Sit start to PPL on sidepull jugs. FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021 | V3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ 80 knots
Crack behind Microscope Boulder. Sit start, then stemming and jamming to top out left. FA: FabianSchuelke, 3 Nov 2023 | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ 94 rotate
Crouch/stand start with both hands on pale patch. Establish on poor feet and move up right to rail. Finish with interesting mantle. Be careful not to fall into the hollow stump. Edge is OUT for hands and feet. FA: FabianSchuelke, 31 Dec | V4 | 3m |
1.1.2.6. Kinematics Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
descrição
Boulder with a couple good arete climbs and potential for some face climbing
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Foot Wall Slab
Up easy slab next to arete into end of Compression Strain FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2023 | V0 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Compression Strain / Kinematics Left
Start as for Kinematics but exiting just before the top to the slab on the left FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 22 Jan 2022 | V4 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Kinematics
Stand start on arete with 2 good side pulls and up good holds to top out with a tricky mantle on the right side FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 23 Jan 2022 | V7 | 5m | |||||
4 |
Face Proj
Stand start to the right of Kinematics on two decent crimps and move up and left up the lip to same mantle. v7-8? |
1.1.2.7. Alcove Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.430110, 149.822078
descrição
Large boulder with a range of potential climbs with a bit of work as nothing super obvious. 2 flat sides and a huge overhanging section. Needs cleaning and projecting. Flat faces look like they could have some really hard technical climbs. Underhanging cave, while spectacular is quite chossy and needs some projecting to see if a line is there.
Back (East) side probably has the most obvious potential with a good set of finger rails to work with. Needs a good creative climber to look over and set some projects.
acesso
Right next to crust boulder
história
Area discovered by Emmanuel Madayag
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Alcove Arete Proj
v4 ish? | 4m | ||||||
|
1.1.2.8. Crust Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.430183, 149.822040
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Shark Fin
Sit start and up small boulder FA: Tomás Briones López, 2022 | V1 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Earth's Mantle
Mantle and palm press the first lip. And then do it again. Awesome FA: Louise Howarth, 2021 | V0 | 5m | |||||
3 |
Upper Mantle Proj
Harder slab to the right of Earth's Mantle | |||||||
4 |
★★ Meteorite
Sit start on jugs and up good edges to easy mantle FA: Louise Howarth, 21 Dec 2021 | V2 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Meteor-left / Meteorite eliminate
Start as for Meteorite but dyno from the left hand crimp to the top, eliminating the right hand sloper jug FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 21 Dec 2021 | V4 | 3m |
1.1.2.9. Pyritic Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.430368, 149.821931
descrição
Very cubic boulder near the end of the Plateau sector
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Cubic Cleavage
Up the right arete FA: Louise Howarth, 2021 | V1 | 3m | |||||
2 |
Prismatic Cleavage
Sit start. Left hand on big sidepull, right hand on sloping gaston. Choice of feet on broken off detached block. Big span out to the arete and finish as per Cubic Cleavage. FA: FabianSchuelke, 4 Apr 2023 | V3 |
1.1.2.10. Pebbles Boulder 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
acesso
100m past Pyritic Boulder
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Cave baby
Sit start with left hand around arete and right hand on solid edge/crimp. Up to big flake hold then straight up. Avoid the undercling at the start, it will break. FA: FabianSchuelke, 22 Jul 2023 | V2 | 3m |
1.1.3. Cryptic 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -32.426302, 149.820825
descrição
Boulders on uphill/west side of Wollar Road
acesso
Park at asphalt clearing on the shoulder of the road as you would for visiting Plateau and cross the road walking slightly uphill. You will know you are in the right place if you see a small clearing and an old strainer post to the left as you enter.
história
Discovered by Tomas and Ivan (Moon Boulders), and Blake and Jen (Collins, Zenith, and Cresent)
1.1.3.1. Collins Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.426676, 149.820830
descrição
Boulder close to the road with large dish features on the road-side face
acesso
As you enter the Cryptic section from the road you will find a clearing with an strainer post on the left. In front of you will be a bolder. The Collins boulder is just behind and to the right.
história
Discovered by Jen M
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Tranquility Base
Couch start, handsfree inside the large lower dish and climb up the face finishing inside the cut-out/cave halfway up the boulder. A range of fun beta available to practice and try for new climbers. This seems to have almost all hold types to play on including a sloper, horn, sidepull, crimp, mono, pinch and a mantle to finish. FA: Blake Muir, 21 Feb 2022 | VB | 3m | |||||
2 |
Top Out Proj
Climb up as for Tranquillity Base but continue on up the 2nd pitch through some nice jugs and top out. Needs a clean up high. Gets sort of highball. Check the downclimb first. | 5m | ||||||
3 |
Flat Wall Proj
Very clean face to right of Tranquility Base. Stand start and up a very clean Wall and up right hand face to top out. All holds yet to be found. Crux is low down, top section easier but gets sort of highball. Looks like mostly crimpy underclings down low too so kind of interesting but wall is slightly obtuse so looks doable. Not sure on grading, maybe a v3-4? | 3m | ||||||
4 |
Side Face Proj
Up slopers via left face to top out. Needs a clean | 4m | ||||||
5 |
★★★ The Index
Stand start on left arete and right hand crimp. Move up face to top out in middle of face. Crux moves at the lip. Very cool FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 20 Mar 2022 | V6 R | 4m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Gneiss Arete
Compression up right arete and juggy flake, topping out on right side of arete. Very nice FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 17 Mar 2022 | V1 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Very Gneiss
Start as for The Index, traverse into start of Gneiss Arete with some cool moves to top out as for that problem FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 17 Mar 2022 | V4 | 4m |
1.1.3.2. Perigee 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.426742, 149.820918
descrição
Boulder close to the road with multiple flat faces on it at various angles. Pretty filthy and featureless on first glance. Needs some dev time to see if there is anything on it.
acesso
Just in front and to the left of the Collins Boulder. Closest boulder to the road when entering Cryptic sector
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Perigee Falcon
Stand start right hand jug left hand undercling. Jump up to jug lip and mantle. Very fun FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 16 Mar 2022 | V0 | 2m |
1.1.3.3. Crescent 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.428393, 149.820741
descrição
Gorgeous little boulder that presents some safe and chill low grade sit start problems with excellent landings on all sides. Could probably boulder this without a pad.
acesso
From the entrance to Cryptic, walk down the Left hand shoulder of the road until you see 3 large boulders on the edge of the road on your right. Walk up the hill behind these 3 boulder and you should see it.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Exponential Arete Climb Proj
Start position to be determined. Up the exponentially sloping, rounded arete | 3m |
1.1.3.4. Palus 0 routes in Boulder
descrição
Boulder in middle of the Cryptic area with flat face on road side featuring some good crimpy action and low down cruxes.
acesso
Slightly downhill from Crescent
|
1.1.3.5. Zenith 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.427254, 149.820955
descrição
Small boulder. Potentially one or two more lines
acesso
In the middle of cryptic between Collins Boulder and Crescent
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
El Primero
Left hand undercling right hand crimp crouch start. Up to bad crimp and jump to lip. Hard to grade FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 16 Mar 2022 | V4 | 2m | |||||
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1.1.3.6. Moon Boulders 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.425434, 149.820420
sumário
Probably the most beginner and intermediate friendly area, other than the mantle cruxes.
High concentration of board style climbs with good landings that aren't too tall
acesso
Park near 55km sign (opposite side of road has more space) and walk in at cairn.
história
Discovered by Tomas and Ivan
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Space Whale
Sit start on good slopers at lip and mantle up. Feels impossible till you figure it out FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 28 May 2023 | V3 | 1m | |||||
2 |
★ Mantle Fight
Left-hand side of the wall up good holds to mantle crux FA: Ivan Restrepo & Tomás Briones López, 25 Mar 2022 | V3 | 2m | |||||
3 |
★★ The Moontle
Same start as Mantle Fight but going directly up to similar mantle crux FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 May 2022 | V2 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Small Steps for Man
Stand start on good crimps and up cool crescent feature and good holds to easy ish mantle FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 May 2022 | V1 | 2m | |||||
5 |
★ A Moderately-sized Leap for Mankind
Stand start on good jug and pinch on arete and big move to top of wall with smear feet FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 May 2022 | V3 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★★ Calma
Sit start on two right facing sidepulls, and move up through small crimps NOTE: Original sit start right hand is now broken. Start one move in right on small crimp. Original start position goes at approx v7 FA: Ivan Restrepo & Tomás Briones López, 25 Mar 2022 | V3 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Crescent Rose
Crouch start on decent slopers and up big moves on slimps (sloping crimps). Slopey jug to the right from J Sun is out. You know which one FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 May 2022 | V7 | 3m | |||||
8 |
★★ J Sun
Start as for A Lo Bien but head left towards the top of Crescent Rose FA: Jason Wong, 26 May 2023 | V5 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★★★ A Lo Bien
Sit start on crimps and up nice incut crimps to hard mantle. Classic FA: Tomás Briones López & Ivan Restrepo, 2022 | V4 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★ Where the Sun meets the Moon
Awkward sit start with right hand pinching arete and left hand on face or arete. Directly up to awkward mantle FA: FabianSchuelke, 1 Mar 2023 | V3 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★ Beetle juice
Sit start up good edges FA: Damian Brook, 2023 | V2/3 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★★ Tranquillity
Sit start on crimp ledge. Hard move to good holds and then easy top out FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 23 Mar 2022 | V6 | 3m | |||||
13 |
★★ The Lunar Mare
Sit start on sidepull crimp and move into the start of Tranquility to finish as for that climb FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 May 2022 | V7 | 3m | |||||
14 |
Takeoff Proj
Stand start on incut crimps and dyno to top | 4m | ||||||
15 |
★ Little Moontle
On the small block opposite crescent rose Sit start on slopey edge before big move to lip and slopey mantle FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 26 Jan 2023 | V3 | 1m |
1.1.3.7. Outer Space 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.425943, 149.820715
sumário
A couple of boulders with potential and a very cool hidden gem
acesso
Walk through moon boulders and head up and left to follow the developing cliff line
história
Found by Cameron Chan on a trip with the Oz crew
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Touching the Void
Stand start in trench and climb up big moves on good crimps. A-void (haha) falling through the hole on the other side, it leads to a cliff FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 28 May 2023 | V4 R | 4m | |||||
2 | Funky Galileo | |||||||
|