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Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte".

Up the short arête clipping BR's to chain belay.

Second and Third pitch of the Art of Meditation

Memorial climb for my Mother, Robin Utopia. Flying with Angels. Fourth pitch of the art of meditation

Start 6m right of B.Y.S. Pull up left into the flake crack system. Follow it up then trend right to sub pinnacle. Avoiding loose rock ( pull down not out ) . Decent by sea saw abseil, or down climb Die For Gear.

small crack line on lower wall

strange ramble.

Climbs the left side of the falls.

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

climb wall to the chimney.

Good beginners lead with a tricky start.

Crux at start, then easy up hanging corner.

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

Up flack and through bulge

Direct start to Happy Lama.

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

1m right of PS

Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. Up onto ledge then easy rock to corner then head left past a bolt to the ledge above Whipping Boy. Trad belay.

Fun first time trad lead great pro and flows really well. Up crack on the right hand side of the arete 20m right of Ready! Tree Belay.

Corner Crack right of Abbot Lover. Tree Belay

Put up after two abseils to the river and 15 minutes of rain put the best climbs out of condition. Two obvious left leaning corners 45m high, starting at the river level at the upstream (southern) end of the gorge. The climb follows the easy corner system 40m to the left. 1st pitch (35m): Up the right veering slabs to corner, up and left to belay. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow slabs and grooves to large ledge. 3rd pitch (20m): Up the right edge of the slab to ledge. 4th pitch (15m): Easy choss to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

Sit start and to the top

Left hand side of the most northern face of the crag

Start at small corner with obvious line. Up and through small overlap to head wall where climbing eases off. Joins diagonal crack line of SWW and top-out through V-slot at obvious stance. To walk off go R along blocks and grassy ledges until you are above the main wall from where you descend as per normal down the juggy descent corner at the far R.

Starts on obvious line 1m R of RFID. Follow line straight up until small overlap where line then trends L. Shares the same top-out as for RFID. Build anchor to rap or walk off R (see RFID for descent details).

Start 2m R of SWW at arête. Follow obvious blocks up arête until you reach the small wall at top. Mantle wall to then join up with SWW crack for the last 2m. Build anchor to rap or walk off (see RFID for descent details).

1/2 way between Top Hat and the next water tanks, head right and down, to the small promitory over the little bay, to the tope-rope anchors. Panama is on the south side of the anchors

Same anchors as Panama, but Fedora is on the north side of them

Up the centre of the slab facing the ocean, viewpoint is just to the left

Greens A,B and C all use the tope-rope U bolts at the nth end of the ledge. Green A is on the arete just below the anchors. At low tide, rap down and climb up

About 3 m's south of Green A. Use long slings or setup rope to reduce rope drag

About 30m's Sth of Green anchors, there a anchors for "G", set low

The corner 2m right of Free Wobbegong. Some loose rock nearer the top, climb with caution.

Start just left of the white streak. Follow the carrots which stay to the left of the white streaks over an overlap to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers.

Interesting pockets and large cobbles. Start by hole in block, follow 3 fixed hangers up face to DBB.

Easy face with plenty of holds up to the cave. To get off down climb to the left in the corner.

Low tide only.

A glorious scramble along untamed coast leading to a single easy boulder problem (VB? V0?). From the east edge of Number One Beach scramble 500m towards Boat Beach via jagged basalt slab formations.

When you find yourself above a narrow channel that heaves with the tide, you'll be funneled into the boulder problem. Grip the overhang and pass over the channel to the rock platform beyond. You'll be at Boat Beach in seconds.

Directly up wall, 2m left of the Battle of Rahmizies to an old carrot bolt, then follow slabby corner left to tree belay.

The RH Corner and jamb crack start to the M1 to gully.

The chimney/cleft on the dark side of the central buttress.

Short slab past 2 carrots

Lower slab/arete on hex bolts.

Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon.

Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt

Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave.

Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap

A start in the vaugue corner right of Joe’s Climb leads to the obvious chimney, the exit from which and final wall constituting the crux.

Boulder up the arete with no gear until half height, to join "Centennial"

You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree.

Wall past a bolt.

"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack.

The other worthless peg crack.

Start just left of DUBB on ledge. Up past 4 RBs and a flake to DBB.

The hand crack in the corner / groove bounding the right hand edge of the Smear Slabs. Head left to the anchor on ABTF.

The steep corner and problematic groove.

Classic right facing corner to DBB.

Short pillar then V groove right of Aggro Bat.

The arete of the pillar right of 'So'.

Climb the left wall of Pickle's Retreat.

Up the finger crack, past pod, to tree belay.

The awkward and obvious chimney.

A good line. The arete right of Kryptos is approached from the right and climbed past nut and friend runners to a double bolt belay

A companion route to I'd Rather be Canoeing, starting a metre right and heading directly up the wall, with sparse protection, trending toward the arete to finish.

10m right of Obscurity at the bottomless right sweeping cracks. Climb the cracks being careful of loose rock on exit.

The orange corner behind the tree 3m right of Stravinsky.

Thin seam to ledge then corner as for Jim. Appears to have been poorly retro bolted with alternative finish up face to DUBB on right. Do yourself a favour and don't clip them, there is enough pro without them.

The classic open book thin crack. NB since 1980 if the snake hasn't been seen its been felt. (it was seen in september 2003 and was approx 5ft long)

Start at the cracked groove 8m right of Glen. Climb the groove for a metre or so before boldly climbing the left wall directly.

In the centre of the Connie Buttress, immediately right of Rash (Middle Crag) is a crack/corner through a small roof below a thin yellow corner. Climbs the cracks and corner to a problematic exit and tree belay.

Climb the obvious right facing corner, 20m right of the access gully. Step right to a groove finish.

The original route up the wall, climbed Paul’s Peril to the bulge then moved left to finish up Fore Arm Jolt.

Starts about 15m right of the Sunset Strip wall at a yellow cave with a corner above it’s left edge. Climb the corner to belay at a prominent tree. Swing left across the exposed wall, traversing left and up to the cave. Climb out of the cave then directly up the centre of the wall to finish.

Start a the flake 8m right of Holden, just left of a prominent arete. Climb the flake and wall above.

Start at the crack a couple of metres right of Glacial Aboration. Climb the crack to the cave then continue up (common with One Armed Bandit).

Corner left of Quietly Qantastic (still be confirmed)

Start at the diagonal crack, then follow crack systems upward

Start 25m right of "Pom's Crack" at crack below prominent tree. Up crack to tree. Cross ledge to a rightward trending traverse above a block to an overhung corner. Up corner and right to a deep V crack to exit.

The twin cracks to bolt protected offwidth ( hangers needed). Trend left at top ( anchors above Copacabana)

Offwidth left of VC, trending left to tree to belay. Cams or tubes to BD #5 essential though it will take larger gear.

A vegetated ledge corner just right of ampitheatre