Vias como sport em North Shore

Closed project

Behind the dinghies in the jungle. Up gritty, grey rock, BR, BB.

Initialled, further down track. Up past BR on orange rock.

Initialled. R at BR, up past another BRand bulge to tree belay.

Initialled start, L of HIE. Up and dyno to BR with fixed hanger. Mantle, move left then up and right (2 BRs one with fixed hanger) to tree.

Juggy wall (2 BRs).

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge. Up sparsely pocketed wall, past 3 RB's and then up flake. Chain lower off.

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Up and right at roof, then back left to lower off. Rebolted on rings.

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof to big 'pillow' hold. Chain lower off set back on left. Rebolted.

Start: As for DD. Up and left at roof. Shared chain lower off with DD.

Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height.

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Chain lower offs

Carrot retro bolt 2016, need replacing

Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

Up little corner and left into hump move. Up slab and bulge, pumpy moves out R to clip anchors

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'. Traverse R then up arete to lower off. Rebolted.

A balancy climb requiring some confident crimping and edging on a slabby face. Avoid the cracks either side to keep the grade.

Perfect route to establish a top belay using the set back gum tree with an extended anchor. Belay from the ledge above the ring bolt anchor.

Avoid the crack and follow the line of draws. NOTE: Once the third draw is clipped recommended to unclip second draw to avoid rope on sharp edge.

Shared lower offs with Snoz Saddler

Start beneath first bolt heading straight up to right side of small cave. Straddle the nose with feet either side of it. NOTE: Once third draw is clipped recommend unclipping second draw to avoid rope drag over sharp edge.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper.

Follow the rounded arete straight up the entire way.

Nothing is known about the original line here. It has been rebolted in the same way as the original. Start about 2.5m left of the first bolt. Using side pull, move up to jugs and then right to 1st bolt. Up and over lip using small, hidden chipped holds (part of the original line).

The left side of the corner about 5m r of LO. For the full experience (20) start seated directly below the first bolt of LO on a sloping edge. Move up then all the way along the break rightwards before heading up.

About 3m right of corner. Up steep flake and up to lower offs (not over).

Start about 4m right of SC at obvious scoop. No using the tree to start! Up and over, left at last bolt for slopey finish.

Left most route on final poxy/seamed face. Follow flake then then right to seamed face. Finish left at last bolt, using face to left for feet.

Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short!

Right most route on final poxy face.

Short and dynamic route over the bulge. 1 BR, 1 U and 2 more BR's to snap gate lower-off. The top is accessible.

4 U bolts to chain right of the Broom Slab. Climb on to the ledge at the tree. Up the slab and headwall. Chain and RB lower-off. Watch out for that tree! Bolts accessible from top.

Right hand side of the Slab. 3 BR's running up the sloped slab to double U lower off.

Right up the middle of the grey slab, over 2 diagonal seams trending up and to the right. Follow 1 U and 2 RB's to a double RB lower off. (Originally 19 before a hold broke, now the start is fairly difficult)

Links the start (and first bolt) of Mudstone Man into the top of Amiga Man (Sharing the last bolt). Technical Traverse over 1 U and 3BR's.

Start about 3m left of Mudstone Man. Straight up off the leafy ledge, then up and slightly right to the chains. 3BR's to chain.

Start 2m left of the tree near the right of the overhung cave section. Difficult lip to technical face. Five RB’s to double U’s. Bolted in July 2014.

Scrub-bash your way to the far right of the Aria Wall. Climb the right side of the corner chimney using only the face holds (no chimney/arete). You can climb the chimney to put the draws on and off.

Extension of Aria and probably the best route at the crag. Start as for Aria, clip third bolt with a long draw. Move right then up flake and slopers to double RB lower off. Five bolts in total, 4 of which are BR's.

Short, difficult and technical slab (crux) to start, then up breaks and flake. One RB (you can stick clip), then Two BR's to double RB lower off.

A great little climb in the backyard of the North Shore!

Start: Marked "24 Thunderbird". The first climb you reach after the walk down on the far left of the crag.

Over chossy undercut onto balancy, slabby face (1 carrot, 1 FH) up to old blue sling on RB. Out to lip of roof 1 carrot and 1 fixed hanger. Then go diagonally through roof passing 2 ring bolts. Ignore previous route info this is how the route is done.

Start just right of crack on big jug and left of Deal with it. Crux at top.

Follow line of fixed hangers start below 1st hanger, add a grade if you do the sit down boulder problem under the overhang.

Start: Just right of Deal With It at right end of cliff.

Follow the line of 3 green ring bolts to top, then single suspect gal carrot(had 2 carrots at the top)and slopy moss mantle top out. Massive tree belay, no lower offs.

Start 1m to the right of Crackit. Up over mantle and through big moves on committing crimps. This route is SHARP! Three carrot bolts, all easiest clipped overhead and a two carrot toprope anchor.

A V1 boulder problem with no name now a bolt ladder.

A pumpy number that climbs like one long boulder problem. Thought provoking moves up the face followed by generous holds through the roof. RBs the whole way.

Start up the nudist. When you get to the anchors throw for a big move right around the mossy face then follow the lip of the roof for another 5m on a sightseeing tour of bygone bolts (clip the fresh ones though). Finishes at chains, second or back-jump to clean.

Start up from the sloping rail and move quickly to the chalked jug. A series of big moves through increasingly bad slopers brings you to the roof. Even bigger moves to more friendly holds on the lip and swing on through to the anchors of the Nudist Route. 2 FHs followed by 2RBs to the anchor. Grade in the realm of 25. Stick-clipping the first bolt strongly recommended.

Link Riders of Rohan into the Nudist extension finish. Reasonably classic and good pumping fun.

Originally climbed back when the pyramids were being constructed. Now on some more friendly bolts. Start up the boulder problem 6, then do another boulder problem, followed by a dyno and another 2 boulder problems to get to the anchor. The grade is an absolute guess, and the real name and first ascensionist is a mystery. (does anyone know?)

Start on the rail, and continue up on jugs. Vear Slightly left at the crux, (blank section of the wall) and top above.

Lead / Trad Route in development.

Solid placements for a trad anchor at the top if route needs to be cleaned, bolted or top roped. a couple of small to medium cams or a good range of Nuts protects easily.

Right hand line of bolts.

Middle line of bolts. Shared lower offs with TBGF

Kats Crack On A Wing And A Prayer was quite daunting at first and I wasn't sure how to use my fingers but the further I got into it the more places I found for my fingers to go. I took my time, showed all due respect and ended up having an amazing experience. WARNING! Running man not advised on this problem. This climb is dedicated to my good friend Katherine Anderson.

At the right hand end of the wall with three prominent overlaps.

The lower offs are expansion bolts so take care.

The arete, marked with a square with a few rusty expansion bolts or carrots. Weeps when wet.

The face to the right of the arete, marked SC. Rusty carrots and even rustier chain lower-offs.

This is the route that starts at V0 "What am I doing here?" - 4 U-Bolts + Anchors.

A delicate route with some interesting moves

Start 3m right of Sardine.

Follow bolts up right leaning feature over bulge to finish. 3 ringbolts to lower offs.

Slab right of The Cheerful Giver. Either finish direct or easier out R

It's probably 8 with a V2 start. 3m R of Waving Wall. Start off the ground, not the boulder.

Up face past single BR to DBB on top of block. Thin start to sloping holds to gain the top. Lower moves offer some fun bouldering if you can find a partner.

There are several rings to abseil from the top of The Block. You may need slings to extend these rings and various carrots for toproping, as some are set back from the edge.

Start Marked. Up face past one BR to DBB on top.

Interesting line up right side of arete left of TC. Clip high 1st ring off boulder. Rap off ring on top (too much drag to lower), shares bolts on arete with Bolt Freak, plus one random ring high and right. Tag can be removed as glue is set

Nice longer face climb on southern end of The Block, left side of arete. SHares bolts on arete with LE. Clip first ring from boulder. tag can be removed as glue is set

Up steep flake 2m R of BC chimney. Funkies then lower off or dirty mantle

Arete right of Train. Slap up ignoring screeching cockatoos.

Gets harder with height. Two carrots. Single ring belay. This is really a one move wonder, with the carrot protecting the top out move.

Start: Rounded arete at the right end of YKS wall at the end of the access chimney from the Courtyard. Up arete and holdless rounded slab and right. 2 rings, optional carrot on easy finish. Carrot anchors near tree.

Euphoria, 3 funky sections with a slabby finish. 2 carrot anchor up top

Start just left of thin crack up wall into crack and layback. 2 carrot anchor at top (easily retrievable)

Wall a meter left of easy crack. Top out or lower off

Thin slab with 2 BRs, finish right, straight over blocks, or left.

Flake 1m left of Young Kids on Speed. Clip carrots on YKoS, dirty topout or lower off.

Start at shallow crack on wall up past bolts and moving left to thin moves to finish on scoops below rounded top out. Needs lower offs added.

Start 3m left of TCFTH. Lay back move to gain horizontal then traverse L to arête, then up to FH on R, and right to scoops, FH on L, (Horizontal for gear and) up on edges to Lower offs (DRB).

There are an another set of DRBs, about 1m above the Lower offs, to rap in if you like. (All bolted with stainless in Sep. 2013)

Left end of TCFTH wall. Start at shallow crack. Up to FH on R, continue straight up passing an another FH and Lower Offs to share with climb 1.

Cant remember if this one was actuakly bolted. got a feeling i ran out of glue. was a long time ago

Right line of close spaced ubolts through steep section to lower off.

Left line of U Bolts. Follows the steep left side of the cave to lower off.

Thought provoking climbing with a fun finish.

fun, one move wonder!

Start just left of "CTOB". Up past six closely-spaced bolts in 8 metres. Beginning leaders note these are old rusty carrots.

Good climbing past manky old pro: a carrot, and truly heinous mild steel round-headed coach bolt.

No top anchors.

can be done in two pitches?! funky bolts Looks like the ghastly shine of twin gold plated expansion bolts half way up ... first ascentionist beware! Also no top anchors.

The ridiculously closely spaced bolt ladder running up the prow. Probably second only to Echo Junior in its Need To Be Freed.

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Up overhang on small crimps to 2nd bolt then exit via runnel. Carrots look fair but should be tested. Some lower holds may be missing. Belay from trees or as for WWCD.

Good climbing past break, short but sweet. Chain extending last bolt to make easier clip. Top out finish.