Vias em Donutland Rightside

One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it.

Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot.

Thin stuff.

Start: Start on the left hand side of the wall almost on the arete. [The topos for the routes on this wall are a bit of a guess, to give the gist of the wall. Please update the topos if you know what route goes where].

Head up right at mid height.

Start: Start as for CC.

Start: Start a few meters right of RRRB and climb into that route.

Wanders a bit down low until you pass a small pocket.

Bouldery start, up past overlap, then straight up.

Up to a vague groove and then through a small headwall.

Up, then head right at the flake, then up.

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

Awaits a direct start.

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

Start: Start just left of the corner.

(AKA ,Lattanzio Corner Crack, Chrome Poisoning.) Recently retrobolted to half height, originally done to full height, trad, taking the right hand line from half height. The obvious corner at the right end of The Green Slab.

The first half of Coneheads: climb the awesome pumpy corner crack to the cave. There is no proper anchor, lower off a ringbolt or old carrots (or permadraws if you're lucky), or top it out another 15m on trad.

One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here! The start slab often seeps but it's an absolute gem from there to the top. Start up the steep pumpy 15m corner crack to sitdown rest in cave, then launch out onto the awesome overhanging wall for 15m of bouldery brilliance to the top.

Liam McIntyre (2021)

The hardware up the incredible arête on the R side of the Conehead wall. 30m of 30 degrees!

The greatest Nowra layback there is. Tricky at mid height. Can seep very heavily even when the rest of the crag is dry.

Has been rebolted? It's 5m R of Chinese Water Torture.

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

The mega crack up the side of the mega block (20m opposite Chinese Water Torture). Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

Chimney climbing.

When you get to Spiderbait, don't continue on into the massive echoey cathedral area (Aptogen/Eptogen inside). Instead go right (towards the river) down a short slot, descending a few metres, then walk left (Eastish) for 15 or so meters under a large high arched roof. At the Eastern end look up for the obvious chimney/cave. The topo is more an indication - you can't see much of the climb from the front, but without 3D I thought tracing the actual route would make people think it was a face climb.

The first bolt is about 5m up a pretty friendly scramble, then continue up into the cave, then squeezing left to 3 belaying bolts about 15m (half-way) up.

Use them.

Running a >60m rope all the way up to the top is possible with your belayer on the ground but unwise. There are so many twists on the way, so much rope out, and most importantly the final anchors are pretty much over the top, so the rope drag/friction means the belayer can't give any slack at all - to get down the climber has to pull the toprope up all the way to be able to descend. And then it's impossible to pull the rope once they're down.

Instead put yourself on protection and belay your partner up (a little cramped, but there's enough of a ledge to stand on near the mid-point bolts). Finish the climb from there worming up though several meters of chimney, and then some easy slabbing back out on the face to finish. Even belaying from half-way there's still heaps of resistance after cleaning because of the unhappily placed final anchor bolts, but at least it makes it possible to get your rope back.

Just make sure you're comfortable with belaying from above and then lowering yourself from the midpoint bolts to finish after you've dropped your partner back down. Also the climber is often out of sight.

Easy enough moves on a long novel climb, but you have to manage all this annoying friction just for the small reward of a few unmemorable metres after the chimney.