★ Smooth Dancer 9

Up the left crack to the apex, continue up the crack stepping left into a wide groove.

Although these days there are a number of excellent sport climbs, the original ascentionists were staunchly traditional, having this to say:

"We, as discoverers and first ascensionists, have not and will not tolerate the use of bolts, pegs, shady aid or chalk. Attempt to use any of these and be prepared to answer to us. We have respected the natural state of the area and expect that you will also."