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Paddock Boulders Guide

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Ascensões: 12
  • Aka: Hliðskjálf

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

James Rann Oliver Story Alek Gough Elliott Price

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Paddock Boulders 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sazonalidade

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -35.381346, 149.082275

sumário

An open sunny hilltop suited to a casual bouldering session. A nice view worthy of Odin himself.

descrição

A collection of boulders on a hill top overlooking the south of Canberra. Most boulders are sit starts. Good for a casual session with a nice view.

Area is quite exposed as it is on a hill top so plan accordingly with clothing and such.

questões de acesso

Mt Taylor is CNP land, the Plan of Management can be found here. Most of the reserve is classified Zone 1; so conservation is the priority.

Of particular note is the Pink-Tailed Worm-Lizard which likes the same areas we do. Impacting the rocks and vegetation under boulders will result in closures similar to those at Black Mountain.

Table 7.4: Bouldering - Best Practice:
- From the PoM:
  • Do not create informal tracks or damage vegetation
  • Do not move rocks or fallen branches
  • Do not disturb plants and animals
  • Keep group sizes small
  • Be considerate of other users Take care of vegetation when placing mats for protection
  • Brush any chalk off the rock with a soft bristled brush when you are finished
  • Carry out all waste
  • Respect regulations and closures.

Adherence to these practices should allow Mt Taylor to remain open as a low visitation crag, primarily for beginners and those in surrounding suburbs.

Notes:

herdado de Mount Taylor

acesso

Park in the carpark at the intersection of Sulwood Drive and Manheim Street in Kambah and walk through the gate and up the road (a pad may make it dificult to fit through the gap). Follow the road up the hill until another road joins from the left. Turn right off the road a bit after this into the grass. Up the hill you should see a fence. Follow this in the direction leading away from the road. After a few minutes you should see the boulders on the top of the hill.

ética

This area is a nature reserve. Take out everything you take in and be sure to clean up after yourself.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Goten

Start on the right hand side of the boulder using the obvious ledge about half way up to pull on. Using only feet on the actual boulder head straight up. Add a heel hook with the left to make the top out harder. Grade may not be accurate.

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V1 Boulder
2 Trunks

Start in the middle of the boulder on the sloper at the top, just above the small overhang) and head straight up. There are not many feet on the way up so be careful topping out. Using the big, step like footer on the right is cheating!

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V1 Boulder
3 Fusion Dance

Sit start from the obvious ledge on the right of the boulder, about half way up (same start as Goten). Move up and to the right topping out on the sloper hold (Same top out as Trunks).

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V2 Boulder
4 Karin's Tower

Sit start. Pull on at the middle of the boulder with side pulls to the left and right. The start hold on the left is a lip near the crack running horizontally across the boulder and right hand is on the slopey side pull. Then up the boulder moving to the left in the first move then topping out on the right at the sloper.

There is a rock on the ground that will make a nice starting seat under your pad.

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V2 Boulder
5 Snake way

Sit start. Start on the lower left of the boulder in the crack and follow the line along the top of the boulder to top out in the centre.

Watch out for whoever lives in the crack

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Couch Potato

Sit start. Starting on the right hand side (on the corner) on the back of the couch boulder. Pull onto the two finger pocket with the left and the big old jug on the right with feet on the holds on the sorter side of the boulder. Move along the back of the boulder to top out at the tallest point on the left.

A nice lazy one that would probably be V0 without the pocket at the start.

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V0 Boulder
7 Choda boy

Sit start pulling on the big under-cling. Moving up and slightly to the right following the good foot holds.

FA: James Rann, 19 May 2018

V0 Boulder
8 Pleazn Squeezn'

Stand start with your left hand low on a hold almost on the ground and the right up on the sloper. Use the obvious footter for the left foot and do whatever feels good for you right. This should pretty much put you at you fully spread arm span and squatting low (but not a sit start). Pull on and head up and to the right to top out. Smearing is helpful. The start is the hardest part so could be modified to be easier.

FA: James Rann, 26 May 2018

V1 Boulder
9 Dead Man's Rest

A cool and shady problem. Start with left hand on the left arête and right hand on the right arête. There is a tiny foot hold down and to the right. Bump up both arêtes and take advantage of any feet you can find to top out on the pinnacle

FA: James Rann, 26 May 2018

V2 Boulder
10 ONEnder

Sit start with right hand in the crack and left hand on the obvious hold on the arête. Not much in the way of feet but a heel on the right is helpful. Top out.

FA: Andrew Oliver, 10 Jun 2016

V3 Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0 Choda boy Boulder
Couch Potato Boulder
V1 Goten Boulder
Pleazn Squeezn' Boulder
Trunks Boulder
V2 Dead Man's Rest Boulder
Fusion Dance Boulder
Karin's Tower Boulder
Snake way Boulder
V3 ONEnder Boulder 3m
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