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Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

slab 5 m right of Pyro. Technical slab climbing. You'll either love it or hate it!!!! Depending on your skills could be anything between 25-27!!

Looks good.

1. 35m. Start as for Diamond Dogs Direct Start. Up DDDS to its fourth bolt then straight up, through the traverse line of DD, and the headwall above (fixed hangers) to a double ring belay.

2. 45m. Step L and up into a thin flake (bolts). From the top of the flake, hard moves right up a series of edges. Up leftwards (bolts) to drop down left around the base of blunt arete and up into the gully to belay.

Hard start (dyno from cairn) into more dynamic climbing. 25M1 if clipping and pulling to first bolt.

A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.

1. Up face (FH) to the right-leaning flared crack. Up this and thin crack (many cams and wires) to where it peters out. Up bulge (FH) to a small ledge. Up short wall (BR) to gain another ledge. Follow this for approximately 20m until an exit is possible.

Start as for Soft but go up and head left.

Start beneath the overhang. Head up and left using the left side, side pull and pull pull pull. Sharp, fine holds.

Vertical seam into roof.

Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay).

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

Sit start matched on good sloper rail and head up to the highest break and traverse it left. Top out as for Soul Surfer.

Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.

1. 15m (26) Head out left past 2 high FH's and an unnecessary, rusty carrot that's pulling out, then step down and left to arete before heading back upwards again to ledge with lower-offs.

2. 12m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top for the grade 24 version, or direct for the grade 26 version (listed separately here but now the accepted finish), to lower-offs on top.

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

A strong natural line but a bit chossy in the middle.

Start: The hanging left facing corner in the centre of the crag, where the walk-in track meets the cliff, and about 10m R of PFoD.

Left hand variant to the Compressor route. Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock. Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB. Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RB’s) with some nice big pockets to DRB loweroff

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

Soft for the grade and contrived, but the climbing is good.

Up Henre Bolte through its crux to the break, traverse L for 2m into the top section of Wackford Squeers and over the top bulge as for that.

A magic climb climaxing with a shallow finger crack. Starts right of the boulder on the ledge above. Up the varied crack, then up onto the boulder. Ascend the cruciform crack at right, passing the crux in the last few moves. Some possible protection at the start, then no protection to finish. Would accept a couple of camouflaged bolts. First Toprope Ascent by Luke Hyam on 11/05/2003

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

As for Siva, then move slightly right and up past carrot bolt, then fixed hanger. A span to holds on the arete allows passage into the top of Swinging thereafter. Originally graded 24 in Carrigan's '83 guide. Incorrectly drawn up in the Mentz/Tempest Select Guide as a LH finish to The Overtaker.

A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m).

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

2. 30m (25) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this pitch.

Start at the first belay of AN. Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Finish at lower-offs above AN pitch 2.

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get. What is even more impressive is that Kevin put this up ground up - he tried it one day, it started raining so he downclimbed, came back the next day and did it. One of the most impressive first ascents in Australian climbing history.

Pitches of 23 (Trad), 26 (Sport), 24 (Trad).

P1 (23) Brilliant technical trad climbing, a fun warm up.

P2 (26) Be careful getting to 1st clip (easier for the tall)move up left side of FH then step gingerly across right to sloping ramp. Follow a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to get to the pedestal belay (13 draws).

P3 (24) Hard start with potential to fall onto belay as the 1st bolt is quite high up, place a long sling when rapping in. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.

Its helpful to rap in on a long static (100+m), makes for a quick escape if required

Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4.

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires to DRB lower off.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains. 27 in both current guidebooks.

From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this past two carrots then hard moves up right. Rap rings.

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling.

This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians.

Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.

1. 28m (25) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge (60m rope), or 38m to ground (70m rope)). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

2. 15m (26) Bring a bolt plate for the belay setup; there's a carrot which lets you get comfy in the cave and spend less time stuck on the uncomfortable hanging belay. A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts, trad, & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a FH. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack, finishing at lower-offs above ND. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

A punchy little line. Up the initial easy crack, small good gear, U bolt, then techo moves protected by U bolt to switch into the next crack to the left. Hard moves into the corner, then even harder moves up the thin finger crack, technical bridging (use the right arete).

Double U bolt lower off

Left end of cave, stick clip first bolt to protect start, up to break #1 & 1.5 camming device then up steepening wall. DBB.

Hard traverse right to the bolts

Thin stuff.

Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above.

Start up Coercion then a couple of pitches up a face trending right to the Ladies Changroom ledge, through the roof then easy to the top.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-great-roof-bluff-knoll/

Burning bright.

Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off.

Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground.

The left arete of the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

A very strenuous outing and an excellent section of flared hand jamming. The start has two options, both hard. You can start up CF for a few moves and then traverse in - possibly easier but less well protected. The direct start up the seam is nails but has good gear. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the tree on the ledge. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route by the direct.

Up chimney to ledge. Pull onto beautiful blank wall & boulder your way up the thin cryptic crack to the top.

First ascent was in commemoration to Yanick Jean-legros & Andrew Abel - both loosing there lives in the mountains

Up Credit Crunch, then join MSTK for a few meters, then into cheque your pockets.

So bold that it scared Warwick Baird. Says it all.

aka The Infected Fist - Neil needed antibiotics after his jam scars become septic whilst working this! In the vein of The Ogive or Procal Harem. The second roof crack 1m right of Adams Crack with a few bolts. Tape gloves, knee pads and cloth to soak up blood required. At the end of the roof crack traverse right along horizontal break for 6m to anchor. 3 FHs and assorted cams to #5 size, multiples of thin hand size recommended.

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

Ramon

Trad as per FDB DS to roof to gain line of left trending RBs above roof. Watch for rope wear on lip when lowering.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

Walk past main wall for a further 2 mins till you are bellow an obvious roof flake 20m above path. Gear through roof, then 3 bolts.

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs.

Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead.

Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

Mixed extension to Once You Bolt Crack. Pass the anchors and 5 bolts get you through the crux, then gear to the top. Gear is quite specific. FA placed green and yellow aliens, single set of C4s from 0.5 to 2, though more could be placed.

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.