Nodes em Main Crag

This Cathedral, named after the “holy” feature in the centre of the main crag, is a rare find for Sydney suburban climbing. Firstly, it's 25 meters high and the rock is not your average Sydney sandstone which makes for some variety. Secondly, the weird location, the tall trees and the huge mosquitoes give this place a Jurassic Park adventurer like feeling.

People, including Joe Friend, were known to have climbed here way back in the 1970's but in the most part it went underneath the radar. In 1990 two puny teenagers, Kent Heffernan and Graham Fairburn unearthed the place establishing many of the classics. They soon attracted the sharks, Dave Barnes and Mike Law and his band of merry men (and women). Bruce Stevens and his local crew also were working on some hard projects here. There are some wicked cracks to jump on and some technical face and slab routes sprinkled throughout. My favorites are Ozone Action (17) and Hercules (22). There is also a slabby bouldering area on the walk in, described in the SRC guide (below).

There is now a good access route from Menai at the top. P.S. Sorry fella’s, I lost the padlock key to the bracket on Jaded Cravings (23) Doh. However, the padlock does add character to the climb. Have fun. Barnsey

Routes are described left to right as you face the crag.

The first route on the crag. Funky start up corner to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit.

Start in centre of slab 5m R of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Clip 1st bolt (use tree) then left and up easily to loweroff on boulder above (or continue up P2 of S.A.)

3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011.

Start in V corner just Right of CS. Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor.

An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle.

Blunt arete with strange carved tank strand and date 1/1/1941 at the base. 2 rings, open project

Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete.

Flared layback seam 10m right of Layback Crack with humiliating boulder start. Maybe 21 V4.

Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete.

Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds. Can continue up Young Bumblies for the full experience.

Start: Below corner crack.

'Layback' up the corner passing new bolts. 'Access' pitch for the other climbs.

Climb HI or TQX and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too)

Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate.

Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..

About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt. Without bridging 23!

Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney.

RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (22 if you go into it for a move). Rebolted 2006

LH variant of ‘Failure is your Friend’ Interesting boulder finisish.

Up JC to 2nd bolt, vere right, tricky moves to gain break. Launch out to the headwall above and take the right line of RBs to top.

Start up 6m left of Hercules to cave and step right onto face and rising traverse into Anticoagulant, finish at these anchors for 27. Finish up Bordella de Merde for the real deal. Long draws help with rope drag.

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Desperate! Retro bolted 2011

A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'.

Start: 10m left of 'The Cathedral' Cave, up easy corner and step right into thin line. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off.

Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008)

Sustained and way cool. The rounded arete just left of the Cathedral Cave. Do not stem up the wide corner ('Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start', grade 21); climb just left of the first two bolts (grade 23). If you stickclip, then better to clip the second bolt directly as the first one offers little protection.

Thin cranking, DF to Imogen. (Do not stem right at any point)

Aleksandra Balyanova

Stem up the wide crack to reach the third bolt of 'Imogen'.

Stick-clip second bolt to keep you from hitting the ground if you fall, but it still may be an awkward swing.

The original bolts for this route were to the right and better protected this version. It was only when these bolts were chopped and moved left did it become dangerous (and less popular)

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is closed project.

Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure

The obvious extension to BBB that now has an extra bolt and strangely enough it now seems do-able. CLOSED PROJECT

Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top.

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' bolting, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The apparent grade depends a lot on when you started climbing: if you started in the 60s it's be 10; 70s = 13, 80s = 14. This century somewhere between 16 and 20. The obvious left leaning chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chockstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Has been lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts

Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings).

Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots.

Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off.

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town!

Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing.

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

closed project up thin layback seam/crack to slab

Start as for CF and break left once you establish yourself on the top slab. Finish at anchor to the right of the corner crack above obvious feature (.4 can dilute the finish).

As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off.

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

climb wobbly tree and then finish up one of the routes above Tarmac Traverse.

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN.

Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA.

One more accross, 3 BRs.

The next one along to the left. Another fun climb !

Start just right of the chains, and up past three RBs.

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain.

The tricky looking Chimney

Start below flake just right of chimney groove. Can be done without tree (at about the same grade ) Or step off tree and up the flake and dynoSlab (TM) with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011)

Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011)

Start: 25m right of the main wall and Tarmac traverse routes, the first line on the smooth black wall.

Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves.

Start: 3m right of Isis.

Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks.

Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear.

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall.

Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

start as for Moss Ghyll.

Can get dirty. Up MGG then traverse right and up. Good crux move

Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.

10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and pull boulder problem, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top.

Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall.

Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt.

Stick clip high Ubolt and go

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite.

Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

4m right of MS.

Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

Start: 5m right of Ms Pat.

Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake past a bolt then the slab above using friction smearing: "nose over toes, rubber on the rock, stand up straight". If you're leaning over clutching at crystals or desperately hauling with your hands you're making it harder than it is.

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

A wild collection of Sydney's finest offwdiths. Something here for all sizes. Bolts abound and make it accessible to all, but if you are lucky enough to have a size 7 cam (aka Merlin), many a delightful greenpoint experiences await you at... MERLIN'S BUTTRESS.

Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base where I lost a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack.

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux (I'd pull up on the bolt above the ledge to clip the higher one, or even bring the second up to the big ledge to belay. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it, judging by the number of loose flakes removed on the top wall, I don't think it had been climbed..

Short arete right of WB&D. Energetic starting moves with a delicate finish.

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall.

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roof and up. Wide.

Up the thin crack feature on small gear, avoid bridging across to face on left. Once ledge is gained move left into squeeze chimney with more small gear in the back. Move up and right back into crack on face and top out. Walk off or abseil off tree.

The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.)

Easiest sport route in town? A good beginner's route. Walk down and R 10m from Wire Brush and Dettol, then down the Right side of a boulder. Walk climb the ridge.

Another easy beginner's slab climb up the slab right of Gumboot Ridge: Start at the lowest point of the slab and follow the line of RB's trending left to the single RB belay at the top.