Mostrando os 57 vias.
Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mordor | |||||
V0 | First Breakfast
Ocean facing side of the first boulder the Mordor sector. Right hand hold and swing out left over the water to gain a solid left foot. Up through the scoop to the summit. FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 Dec 2017 | ||||
V1 | ★ Second Breakfast
Low tide only. Stand start below the bulge on the ocean side of the first boulder. Up through the scoop as for First Breakfast. FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 Dec 2017 | ||||
V3 | ★ Torech Ungol
Overhanging corner on the ocean side of Ruby Right boulder. Sit start in the bottom of the abyss, lay back up the corner while avoiding boulders below and behind. FFA: Fil Kindblad FA: Fil Kindblad, 24 Dec 2017 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Gollum, The Real Hero | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Gort
Sit start same as tramp stamp, follow the crack left and up. FA: Chris L, 4 Jan 2019 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tramp Stamp
Sit start at the two pockets and up the face. | 2m | |||
V0 | V0 (sit start)
Up the arete to the right of Tramp Stamp. | 3m | |||
V0- | VE (stand start)
Easy face right of V0. | ||||
V2 | ★ Ruby Right
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Mount Doom
Start with hands in the break, feet on the slopey overhang. Rock over, hug the block to the pinnacle. Don't fall. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Bro Code
Hang start with poor feet. Left hand in vertical slot and right hand on lowest pinch. | 3m | |||
V6 | Broner
Sit start at the arete, up to the right. | 3m | |||
V2 | V2 (sit start)
Sit start and up the arete. | 3m | |||
V1 | Left Arete
SDS. FA: Moses, 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Middle
SDS. FA: Moses, 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | Right Arete
SDS. FA: Moses, 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | Lip Traverse
SDS. Can be done in either direction FA: Moses, 2019 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Doctor Dirtbag
Contender for the best boulder at Doctors. Sit down start with arms wide on two side pulls. Big move to knobby hold and then nice flowing moves to good hold about half a metre from the lip. Committing moves to gain the lip and then slightly traverse right for the top out. Tidal dependent but an excellent problem. FA: Liam, 7 Mar | 4m | |||
V2 | 1
Sit start on the right and follow the break right round the boulder to top out up the back. | ||||
V3 | 2
SDS Up the right arete. | ||||
V1 | 3
Start in the break and top out up the slab. | ||||
V0 | 4
On the boulder behind to the left. Sit start with feet as low as possible, hands on each arete and straight up. | ||||
Emergency Medicine | |||||
V1 | ★★ Unnamed V1
Stand start. Straight up the centre of the face. FA: K. Bolton | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Unnamed Sit
Sit start on left down point. Straight up face. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Neuralgia
Start low and left with right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Move up and right, avoiding the jugs on the centre of the face, finish up the right side of the face. | 3m | |||
16 | Kitten Kong
Left line of bolts. FA: Ben Young & Moses Basset | 8m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Funky Gibbon
Centre line of bolts FA: Ben Young & Moses Basset | 8m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Punky Business
Right line of bolts FA: Ben Young & Moses Basset | 8m, 3 | |||
V2 | ★★★ Narya
On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start matched on the big rail, up to the arete and top out. Nice moves on jugs the whole way. FA: Moses | ||||
V3 | ★★ Nenya
On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start low on small holds, heel hook and straight up through side pulls. | ||||
V1 | ★ Vilya
On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start right hand on a side pull and left on perfect square sloper and go straight up. | ||||
V0 | ★ Injury blues
Easy and enjoyable movement directly opposite Neuralgia. FA: Mackenzie Lovell, 28 Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
V5 | V5 Hang Arete
Between Mordor and the main area in the middle of the boulder field there are some individual problems: Start on undercling then up left arête. | ||||
18 | Doom
To get full value on this climb start in the hole at low tide. Being two boulders stacked on top of each other this feels more like bouldering. With that and the other boulders around you a fall while clipping at any point wouldn't be nice. Still some loose rock at the top. FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett | ||||
17 | Strange
So far this route has been climbed by staying left of the bolts at the start for some fun 3D climbing between the two boulders. Once towards the top of the left boulder, step right and go up the face, don't top out. It's a bit contrived but quite fun. FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett | ||||
19 | ★ Dr Strangelove
It's a shame this face doesn't have a nice flat landing as it would be a great boulder problem at the current height. Or if it was twice as long it would be great sport route. Head straight up past the bolts for a few very thin and quite technical moves. FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett | ||||
15 | And How I learned To Love The Bomb
A bit average, really only one move. Needs another bolt, falling while going for the anchor results in a hard hit into the slab at the bottom. FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett | ||||
★ The secret garden
Sit start on the jug on the right of the arete. Climb the arete, staying mostly right and top out through the branches. FA: Mackenzie Lovell | 5m | ||||
V1 | ★ Frontier Podiatrist
Straight up the center of the face. FA: K Bolton | ||||
V5 | ★★ Osteopathy
Sit-start at the base of the triangular white wall. Up using crimpers on the face and left arête to reach a jug at the apex of the triangle. From here either head straight for some excitement or cut right to traverse off. Sit start, right of FP | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Loop Of Henle
Start round the corner on the jugs, loop round the bottom of the boulder then an awkward move on to the slab which is climbed to the top. Final move a little trickier than you would like in that position. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Emergency Medicine
Awesome highball arête. Follow the tufa feature up the arête using a small pocket on the face to gain the jugs just below the lip. Careful on the top-out. | ||||
V2 | ★★★ Rising Tide
Brilliant face climbing straight up the middle of highball face. A piker's variant can be done by exiting out left mid-height (V2). | ||||
V6 | ★★ Tidal Pressure
Just west of the Emergency Medicine area there are two quality problems together in a small depression created by the jumbled boulders: Start on the furthest left jug. Traverse the face avoiding reaching over the lip for jugs. Top-out up the headwall. Quite pumpy. With the tide coming in the water will slowly creep up the landing and this can create some added time pressure. | ||||
The Beach | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Birdman
Sit down start on rock to the left of the boulder. Move up and right to match a side pull. Continue to traverse low on the boulder on out stretched moves to the arete and finish up on "Don't Be a Darius." FA: Liam | ||||
V3 | V3
Highball, stand start. | ||||
V2 | V2
Highball, Stand start | ||||
V2 | Don't be a Darius
Stand start FA: D. Khadembashi | ||||
V4 | Be a Darius?
Sit start variant | ||||
V1 | ★ V1 sit
Sit start, up through the black scoop. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Golden Eel
Standing start between two small boulders. Left hand in jug, jump to juggy rail, traverse right till the rail ends, up and over. Fun campus traverse or feet available. | 5m | |||
V2 | Pocket Problem
Stand start at the left hand pocket. (Please Edit if proper name and FA are known.) | ||||
V3 | ★ Oscar The Grouch
Start as low and right as possible and head left through the roof and up pocket problem. FA: Moses & Ben Young, 1 May 2016 | ||||
V0 | Tinea
Start right hand in undercling and left hand on rail, bump straight up. FA: Liam, 26 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Warm up Traverse
Start on the ledge on the ocean side of the boulder and traverse around, back to the ledge. | ||||
VB- | T1
These problems are on the beach side of OTG. Follow the flake up to the top. FA: Liam, 26 Feb 2022 | 2m | |||
VB | T2
Stand start with left undercling and right on a crimp. Couple of moves to the top. FA: Liam, 26 Feb 2022 |
Mostrando os 57 vias.