Sugarloaf Principalmente Escalada trad 54 vias no local

A traverse / girdle from the lower slabs of Sugarloaf, across flypaper wall, main wall and eventually finishing at the very top of Sugarloaf itself. Most of the climbing is easy grade 2-6 traversing, with the sections from baghdad to black streak being slightly harder grade 8-10. There are many variations and belay oppertunities but would be best simul climbed.

From the lowest slabs, or you can even start from the 'Left Route' and climb up and over some blocks, start traversing 5-10m above the ground until onto the main face. From here trend a bit higher and try hit the bolt on baghdad. From here follow some seems and breaks over Cherry flake and black streak. Follow your nose and you will likely find yourself just above the black streak DBB. After this there is a bit of jungle bashing before a very nice clean streak of rock to the top.

Likely done before but recording here for budding adventure climbers. Probably worth 1.5 stars due to novelty and length in a nice position.

1. 18m Start 10m L of BDO and follow juggy face to ledge. 2. 40m Straight up wall behind to belay as for BDO. 3. Move the belay 7m up to the right below the obvious shield. 45m Climb the face directly to a ledge near the left arete. 4. 10m Climb a layback flake and face to top.

Starts at bottom of Fly Paper Wall and heads all the the way to the top of main wall. 1. 18m Right side of FPW to stance. 2. 40m Follow slab past overhang then down to belay. 3. 35m Begin up main face to arete, then right to belay ledge. 4. 20m Follow arete all the way to another belay ledge perched above an overhang. 5. 10m Up the wall behind you.

Starts on top of boulder mashed against wall to the left of where the trail meets the main face. 1. (24m) Straight up to big flake. 2. (33m) Continue up till you reach a rightwards weakness and follow to top.

Starts in front of boulder to the right of where the track meets the main face below the point of two ramps. 1. (35m) Straight up till you reach the flake. Follow left till you reach the diagonal ledge. You should be able to see the FH identifying the Baghdad belay further up to your right. 2. (45m) Continue up and Right till you see a L facing flake. Stay to the right of this all the way to the top.

Begins where the track meets the main face. 1. (35m) Up to ledge then follow left groove to spike. 2. (35m) Continue up to R of cave, over, out and up to top.

Starts 13m R of Mesopotamia under where a boulder leans against a flake. 1. (35) Up to the boulder. Pass interesting holes, up over buldge, then left to the diagonal ledge. (1 FH). 2.(45m) Keep going up and L till you merge with Mesopotamia.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

Shared start with Cherrys Flake. 1. 25m (5) Up to spike, then step R to gain small ramp which is followed L and up past BR to a DRB belay. 2. 35m (4) All the way up.

Shared start with Cherrys Flake.

1. 30m (15) To the small spike on Lavers Route. Follow black streak R and past 3 BRs to ledge.

2. 40m (5) Follow easy weakness to top.

7m Left of Plaque at entrance to Wells Cave.

1. 40m (12) Follow the crack using various techniques and the arete to find yourself in a belay hole.

2. 22m (9) Up wall to top.

Wanders up and left from the start of Elixer to a ledge and first belay. Then on up and right towards Webb's crack and the second belay. Finish up this route.

Start at the left of Well's Cave entrance.

1. 24m Up and left to the chimney and following overhang before transferring R to secondary chimney.

2. 18m Up the chimney.

3. 21m Webb's Crack to finish

The route begins at the base of the slab which forms "Well's Cave" and tops out above the cave chamber. Descent can made by down climbing the northern section of the slab.

Starts about 3m L of Speigals Other Slab. Balance up the line directly up the wall, crossing the L diagonal to the thin crack through the L hand side of the overlap. Pull up on delicate edges, then reach and pull onto the slab. Up to belay wherever.

Starts almost in but just L of Speigal Slab. Follow the fault line diagonally a little then on up to the overlap 2m L of Speigals Slab. A hard move over this then up to the ledge.

Exposed. Goes thru the minor roof on the buttress R of and above the finish of the preceding climbs. I t exits dirctly onto the The Razorbacl itself. Start from the ledge and balance up the wall until under the roof. Clip the bolt, and make the move through the roof.

Start at the R edge of the slab on the R side of the large fallen tree.

1. 25m Up the edge to the overhang. Pass the R side of the overhang and up the faint corner till it stops (not the mossy corner) L across the slab, up to the flake on a ledge L of Speigals Roof.

2. 20m Up jugs to a ledge L of an inset cliff at the base of a L leading groove. Finish up the groove to The Razorback or straight up the wall above the ledge.

A short distance down the access ramp, a tree grows out of a horizontal crack below a couple of mossy lines (they were clean in 1980) Up the cracked wall L of the tree to below the L hand line. There are no anchors and the stances are poor. The hardest bit is the start.

Starts up the shallow groove at the L hand side of the main face. Up the scoop (jugs on the L are out) to the ledge, and on to the bottom of the triangular hole (hard to see from the ground). Up L and take the thin crack to the ledge.

Not great. Starts off the the half height ledge R of the 2 previous routes. Up the pock marked wall to the disintegrated overlap. Through the choss and up to the top.

Starts down the bottom of the access ramp. LBW is the obvious groove.

1. 25m The groove, L at the top and onto the belay ledge.

2. 25m Up the thin cracks, to the bulge. Directly through this to the large ledge. Climb the face above this at its hardest point to the Razorbacks.

Scary for the grade. The L leading line 6m R of LBW. The line to the halfway ledges. Straight up the the flakes, and past these with caution and dubious protection to a large ledge.