Via em Xanthene

An epic adventure.

1. 25m (10) Same as 'Speigal's Overhang'. If 'Speigal's Overhang' is busy, 'Route One' is another option.

2. 29m (8) Up the crack in the middle until the overhang. Build semi-hanging belay right under it or left into the corner to a ledge. Very vegetated pitch.

3. 20m (17) Up through overhang. Follow two BRs to the second overhang (crux, very stiff for 17). Belay on small stance 2m above and a bit to the left

4. 20m (17) Delicate slab climbing. Traverse left then follow a thin crack to a BR, then straight up and a bit to the right to the 'Traverse of the Gods'. Move right to belay as for Speigal's Overhang. Then several options how to end this climb:

   • 'Xanthene Direct' (16)
   • 'Greg's Direct' (14)
   • 'Speigal's Overhang' (10)

You can link 4th pitch of 'Xanthene' and 'Xanthene Direct' (total linked pitch length of about 65m).