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The Rock
Know as Kengal to the local Wiradjuri people, The Rock towers 250 metres over the surrounding countryside, and is thought to have been a site for initiation ceremonies. The reserve is an island of natural habitat for native animals, including the turquoise parrot and glossy black cockatoo. The Rock Nature Reserve is in the southern Riverina of New South Wales, and lies on the boundary of two major physiographic regions: the Riverine Plain and the western slopes of the Eastern Highlands. On a clear day, you can see Mount Kosciuszko and the Victorian Alps from the top of the three kilometre Yerong nature track. The Rock is comprised of a hard quartzite like stone laid down in a diagonal like strata. This leads to some beautiful and technical corner, crack and face climbing with lots of diagonally facing holds. Traditional gear is the go to on many of the routes with many good technical placements being found. |
The Towers
The Towers is the North facing cliff line that is visible from the car park and contains the majority of the routes at The Rock. Bolting new climbs is prohibited under the Code of Conduct that allows climbing to take place at The Rock. |
The Towers |
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★ Controversy
L of TL is a prominent arete with a steep R face. Follow the R side of this arete. |
25
★★★ Disorientation
Superb steep and technical climbing, packs in a lot for 20m. Line heading up R from C. Climb C till the 4th RB then head R and up the steep wall, keep L of the slab corner. |
6
★ The Ladder
An easy beginners' climb on small clifline L of where old track ascends cliff. Start at the ladder like recess. |
8
Daisy
Wall several metres L of descent gully. |
4
Descent Gully
This reserve is 6 km west of The Rock village on Lockhart Road, 35 km east of Lockhart and 40 km south-west of Wagga Wagga off the Olympic Highway. From 1st July to 31 December The Rock is closed to all 'Rock Sports', due to breeding Peregrine Falcons. A sign is put in place when the birds are nesting in this area. For more information check the NPWS website: https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/adventure-sports-experiences/the-towers Climbing is only permitted at The Towers and is prohibited in other areas of the reserve at this time. |
8
MMMM
Wall R of descent gully. |
7
★ BRCN
The nearest I can figure is that this climbs the crack on the face to the Left of Kidstuff, assuming that Kidstuff takes the line in the chimney/gully. |
5
Kidstuff
Layback crack 8m R of DG Line L of bush, then directly to roof. |
10
★ Traverse #1
Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up piece. |
11
Leeper Traverse
Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up piece. |
18
★★ The Nose
Start marked (TN). Nose to roof. Step R and ascend wall. |
10
Bill's Climb
Start marked (BC). One of the first climbs completed at The Rock. Chimney formed by large block. Veer slightly R up wall, then gully. Two alternative finishes are on wall L of exit gully. Line closest to gully is grade 10; line further L is grade 8. |
13
★ Traverse #2
Start marked (T2). Corner, then pleasantly up wall. Veer slightly R to roof. Traverse R under roof to easiest line on R side of overhang. Slight bulge, then directly up. |
12
★ Honourable Harry
Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully. |
18
★★ Harry the Fairy
Some delicate footwork whilst on side pulls gets you to an easier finish. Start as for HH, boulder up R to RB then straight up the wall to lower off on ledge. |
12
★ Mrs Fairy
Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches. |
20
★★ Temptation
A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L of Terminator. R side of face. First crux face is protected by 3 BRs. Rest of route is adequately protected by gear. From horizontal, move R to join Terminator (best finish) or step L through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R side of gully. |
20
★ Terminator
One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L using prominent hold on L wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof but don't bother) Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look) |
15
★★ Scratched Knees
Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R of Terminator (just L of large nose). R side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R, but head straight up through roof and finish up L line. |
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★ Wall Flower
Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux. |
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★★ Wilted
Start 2m R of Wallflower on the face under the roof. Up this face to the roof. Step L into WF for a few moves then traverse back just above the roof to the arête. Follow this to the top where WF joins it. |
21
★★ Staircase
The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge. |
23
★★ Incensed
Start as for Angie. Up this for 5m to a traverse line. Traverse L to join SC for about 4m then traverse L again to the arete and follow this to the SC anchor. |
15
★★ Angie
Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. Pass the roof on the left. Continue past some large, loose blocks, then up to the top of the cliff. |
19
★★★ Outside Edge
Follow Angie to roof, then follow R line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top. |
26
★★ Where Iron Crosses Grow
Steep with a difficult move to reach the lip. Start as for OE or LWF and climb either of these for the first 5m before stepping onto the arête. Follow this to the first roof, step R under this, up a move then a hard move out L to the lip. Finish up the face to the lower off on OE below the death choss at top. |
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★★ Lest We Forget
Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag.
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Secret Agent Man
First line R of LWF. Thin crack, moving R to horizontal. Traverse L along horizontal to meet LWF. |
23
★★ Chaos
Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R to overlap. Move R past a FH up thin flake and face past 2FHs to small roof. Over roof and up face until just R of large roof. Finish up closed flake past 2FHs to lower off R of LWF. (#5 stopper and 2 small cams is useful after roof). Direct finish added in May 2017, makes for more direct and fun route. |
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★★ Iron Crossed Chaos
A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG. |
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★★ Chaos Roof
Climb CHAOS past the 3 FHs and small roof then traverse L climbing the lip of the LWF roof and face before reaching the lower off on OE. |
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★ Jammer's Delight
Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L side of wall. |
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Jammer's Delight Variant Finish
Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L wall. |
18
The Brink of Misery
Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above. |
22
★ Comfortably Numb
Thin line 3m R of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place. |
14
★ Virgin's Crack
Marked corner 9m R of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top. |
18
★★ Mohammed
Follow for VC for 1m, then move R onto arête. (If you reach L into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap. |
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★★ The Infidel
Nice face climbing, a little contrived as it steps L into Mohammed. Start 2m R of VC. Pull up R onto face for a few moves then Boulder L to join M. Up M for a few moves before traversing R a few metres before climbing diagonally R over the overlap and face to the anchors of BS. |
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★★ Battle Scars
Start 3m L of CD. Make some hard moves diagonally R to a jug then up a short crack to a horizontal. Step L 2m then straight up over the Arapiles style bulge to the finish. |
22
Chromium Dog
R of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L and up into loose corner. |
24
★★ Space Junk
Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L, climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L and traverse R along horizontal to finish the line (23). |
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★★★ Cosmic Trash
Superb rock and nice face climbing. Starts 2m R of SJ follow the thin R leaning line up the wall staying approx 2m R of SJ the whole way. |
18
Instant Religion
Steep face 4m R. of VC. Take line at R. side, about 3m L. of Andrew and detached block. Veer L. with line into short corner (crux). |
23
★★ The Unknown
Fantastic face and arete climbing with a sneaky step R at 2/3s height that makes it all go. Climb the arete immediately L of A to the second break after the slopy ledge. Step R into A at the roof climb this for a 1m and then step back L around the corner to the next BR. Climb the last bit of arete and face in a spectacular position to the top. Lower off below the choss at the top. |
18
★★ Andrew
20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner. |
19
Out of Africa
Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner. |
23
★ The Hot Zone
Bouldery crux down low. Face route up wall in behind detached pillar crossing OOA finishing at the anchors ledge on the ledge of Andrew. |
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Rambunctious Flamboyance
2m R of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece. |
21
★★★ Grand Larceny
Just L of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above. |
20
The Brisbane Line
Starts at R end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner. |
21
FM (Full Manual)
Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face. |
17
April Fools
Starts 5m R of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line. |
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Benders Lane
20m Start at belay 13m R of AF (up scrubby gully). Tend L, then cracks and ledges to main ledge. |
5
★ L Plates
At the bottom R end of The Towers wall before it turns chossy is a 20m high buttress about 50m R of Benders Lane. Start directly in front of buttress and up 5m past a finger crack to a large ledge. Continue 10m up corner and step left onto smaller ledge. Up last 5m past large broken crack and block. Ascending -from the top 50m further to the R a cairn marks an easy ramp scramble back down. |
Central Buttress
Climbing is currently prohibited at the Central Buttress by NPWS. |
Central Buttress |
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Central Buttress Left-hand Crack
Start at L. side of (marked) buttress. L. crack system. |
12
Central Buttress Right-hand Crack
Start at R. side of (marked) buttress. R. crack system. |
14
Zed Crack
Start marked. Zigzag up start, then wall. |
7
Exit Gully
Start marked. Easy gully to top of cliff. |
15
★★ Mr Toad
Start Marked. Up large crack to alcove on L. Follow obvious crack to crux. Reachy move into alcove rest. Step R and up to belay on L. |
17
Friction Boots
Start marked. Start on high-angled, mossy slab about 60m from Exit Gully. Directly up slab. |
8
Easy Crack
Easy crack just R. of Friction Boots slab. |
10
★ Slippery Serpent
Start marked. Up crack past bushes, follow layback right past small roof then on to top |
14
Jeff's Chimney
On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big L. chimney |
14
Greg's Chimney
On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big R. chimney |
The Main Face
Climbing is currently prohibited at The Main Face by NPWS. |
The Main Face |
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Running Crack
First corner-crack on L. side of cliff. |
13
Maherie
'There are routes and there are routes - but this is not one of them. It will surely land on the packs in years to come'. Loose. Start about 2m R. of RC. Move up L. and scale loose rock to perch yourself on person-sized, loose flake. Continue up even looser line above. |
10
Solo Crack
Corner R. of Running Crack. |
10
January Crack
Corner R. of Solo Crack. |
14
Mossy, Too
Start in crack system just R. of arête between January Crack and Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack until arête can be gained. |
10
Carcinogenic Cloud
Corner R. of January Crack. |
16
Greg's Climb
Start marked. Corner R. of Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack and wall above. |
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Falcon's Lair
3m R. of Greg's Climb is ledge 3m off ground. Boulder to ledge and climb corner to roof. Step R. to gain beautiful finger crack. Wall. |
15
The Rock Face Route
A classic climb and the first done at The Rock. Start marked.
Exposure is grade 15 on its own. |
15 M3
The Rock Face Direct
The Rock's original 'big wall' climb. Start marked.
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13
Mossy
Start marked. Line of least resistance up mossy slab on R. side of face. |
Upper Terrace
Climbing is currently prohibited at the Upper Terrace by NPWS. |
Upper Terrace |
20
Walk Across the Rooftops
Ramble up R. side of cave, then traverse L. to base of crack. Climb crack. |
19
Tinsel Town
Blank corner 2m right of WAR. Move R. at ledge and up corners (crux). |
13
Yerong Trail Direttissimo
On the terrace above the Main Face are some interesting lines. About 100m from the L. are two good-looking lines. L. one is steep, closed corner starting halfway up cliff; R. one is saner version with a steep, blocky crack line at half height.
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