Vias em Benloch

A nice juggy traverse without many feet. Stand-start on left facing hold and move right along the lip. Top out once at the good foot ledge. Rock pedestal along the base of the climb is out.

On the way in, nowhere near as good as it is pretty. SDS on lowest jugs to the right. Move left along the rail and then up to the good hold.

SDS - head left and up once at the long crimp rail.

SDS - direct up the face. Don't stray from the centre.

SDS - head right and up using the right arete.

Stand-start and traverse the scoop finishing up right.

SDS on two lowest crimps. Make two powerful moves right onto more crimps and then throw for the right-facing flake. Feet are gravelly.

SDS on two lowest crimps as per "Superficial Self Harm". Use the array of slopers on the lefthand side until you reach the jug.

Sit start off detached block with hands in the crack. Head up through shallow nothings, gain the vertical rib and top out. Nice movement.

Stand-start with left-hand on flake and right-hand on razor crimp. Would go from a sit but would make the climb significantly harder. Probably not worth it.

Stand-start with left hand on the jug and right hand on (questionable) crimp. Climb upward on sloping holds.

Stand start off crimps and high undercling and move right and up. Odd.

Start as for Scrambled Egg. Traverse low to finish on Love Egg. Wing Span will assist.

Left side of the low scoop and vague arete above. Big foot shelf at the start is out and unnecessary.

Crouch start off the low sloper and slap it out up the face. Great problem.

Name courtesy of Johnny Cash for the best song title with egg in the name!

Undercut slabby west side of the Egg boulder covered with crimp rails. Deceptively awkward due to lack of footholds on the bulge. Will go from a SDS

Lesson in high stepping on granite nothings. Standing start on high opposing crimps.

Stand-start on left arete and traverse right along the lip on good holds. Mantel once you are established on the downward trending holds.

Careful of loose flakes at the mantel. Check integrity of these holds before pulling hard. Spotter is likely useful.

Classic lowball. Despite its low stature, this climb packs a punch. Stand-start on double underclings and throw to the sloping crimp up high. Move up then right to the good arete and mantel. Right arete must be used for the grade.

Sit-start might go but it would be hard.

Surprisingly tricky... SDS with left hand on the arete. Throw to the side pull and then move up and over on crimps. Mantel up the right side of the boulder.

Notable hairline crack on the right side of the overhanging nose. Some parts of it sound hollow as well. Please do your own risk assessment of the boulder and determine whether you are OK taking the risk. It held up fine to multiple attempts but beware.

Worth the trip. Sit start under the overhang on the low break right. Move left to thin crimps and up through pinches on the vertical rail. Top out right.

jjupsidedown

Thin face on opposite side of Crab Style. Stand start (or sit if you feel the need)

SDS Right arete of Urban Struggle

The left arete of crab styles from a low sit start on side pulls. Climbs nice, crap landing.

Small boulder right of Crab Styles. SDS with left hand on sloping side pull, right hand low on the arete. Pull on, slap right until you can mantel.

To the right, a standing variant exists - LH on good arete and RH on low side pull. Mantels the same way. About V0/1.

On opposite arete to BL1. Stand start, out left off side pulls and sloper onto slab and top out in middle of boulder

On the vague arete to the right of Dodging A Bullet. Stand-start on arete and crimp your way up and to the left.

Stand-start and layback crack into crimps. Finish as per Central Intelligence.

Climb the slab on the left end of the project boulder.

Take the underclings into the crack.

From a stand down left of the shelf climb direct with no hugging around right. Probably V5 but punting the last hard lay aways could hurt.

Same line as Podcast but climbed from a neat sit start off shelf and fridge hugging the wall of Wedge. Not hard at grade but you might want a few pads.

Project no more. Amazing line on great rock. Thin and techie!

Fun arete to right of Wedge project, nice edges and a cruisey topout

Located on the giant boulder as you walk toward the end of the ridgeline (past Egg Boulder). Stand-start with two hands-on the giant side pull. Traverse left into the crack and up.

Climb the slab below the Golden Oldie Boulder on unlikely pockets

Sit start off a hidden undercling and make your way up on nice slopers

Sit start as for The Burrow then move up and left to the arete, cruising up the delightful juggy sidepulls.

On the right of "The Burrow". This climb packs about 10 hand-moves into such a short space! Sit start straddling the left-arete. Left hand on a crimp under the overhang and right hand on a crimp on the sloping arete. Move up then traverse left toward the sloping crimp and 3-finger pocket before rocking back onto the face. Don't use the massive rock on the left.

Can also be done as a stand at an easier grade.

Sit start and hug your way up the end of the boulder on side-pulls and bulges, nice and high

Sit start as for Golden Oldie but halfway swing around the corner to the left at the thin horizontal crack and use good crimps in the blank wall above to reach the ramp. Don't use Grandpa's Crack.

Sit start and head straight up the crack system

In the nook on the uphill end of the Golden Oldie boulder. Sit start from the break, up keeping close to RH arete via interesting pockets to entertaining top out.

On the opposite side of the Golden Oldie boulder to Grandpa's Crack. Sit start from the top of the ramp at the big pocket, move straight up face via cool sidepull and incuts to top out. Everything right of the big jagged RH crack is out. Bad landing, best not to fall.

Sit start

Dyno from the crimp rail to the lip and mantle

From the crimp rail head left through more crimps (will be V9 minimum when it goes)

Stand start and mantle the shelf. Note: Can be done from a sit starting to the right - not much change in grade (P. Reynolds, 28/6/2022).

Sit start and compress up the bulge

Stand start at the pockets. Nice powerful climbing.

The massive flake has fallen off. The stand has been re-established as V1.

Sit start left, finish as for Tough on Crime.

The massive flake has fallen off. The sit has been re-established as V1-2.

Sit start and hug up. Must finish standing on top with arms over your head.

SDS with right hand on good crimp and left hand on your choice of poor features. Ascend direct.

Eliminate obvious detached flakes at bottom of the climb (watch your ankles on a fall) and pull lightly on jug at top.

Sit start

Climb up the crack

Sit start and head up the slab

Stand start on double underclings, then head straight up using slopers and the rib on the bottom of the flake

(Not Pictured) Climb up the scoop right of Love Slap

Painfully thin crimps and corner arete behind Flakelicious. SDS with sharp left-hand (questionable) crimp and right-hand divet on the blocky foot shelf. Stand and mantel without using the highest foot shelf. Likely to beach whale.

Left of "Verbal Clap". Stand start using opposing crimps, paste the right foot on an throw to sloper, mantel.

Located about 50m from the Totem. Walk to the Totem, then head away from the road for about 50m. You should see this lone boulder shortly. Stand-start with hands on the beautifully smooth edge. Paste feet and lunge (dyno?) for the top. Maybe V6 for shorter people?

This boulder lies about 50 metres to the left of "The Totem" (if looking from the road). From a sit, start with hands matched on the excellent rail. Move directly upward using side pulls and crimps.

Eliminate obvious ledges directly below the start hold and to the left. Feet should be on holds above these ledges.

Stand start with a hand on the arete right, make improbable moves to the sloping lip and top out.

Short face right of the arete. Up via a crimp, pocket with poor feet and mantel avoiding the arete to the left.

Sit start on side-pull flakes and pull straight to the crimp up high. Beware of loose flakes. Will clean up over time.

Stand start on opposing side-pulls (double gaston?). Paste the right foot into the sloping pocket, stand high with the left, and launch up and right to a sloper finishing as for "Mistaken Identity"

To the left of Cutting Shapes (if facing away from the road). Stand start on the right of the sloping pocket. Paste the left foot into the pocket and throw out right to a sloping edge. Match and top out however you can.

To the left of "Cutting Shapes". The small boulder has a 3-move easy crimp line. Crouch start with hands matched on angled crimp and mantel.

Stand start and climb the crimps leftward to top. Great moves and tough at the grade.

Thin slab veering slightly right

SDS right under vertical arete.

Gravelly arete. Might eventually clean up.

Obvious arete in the cluster close to the road just before light post #19. Sit start in a bear hug then cruise up. Be gentle, don't break off the thin flake!

In the same area as Party Pillar. Stand-start with left-hand on undercling and right-hand on crimp. Traverse right, step up high and top out direct.