★★ Antares 19

Sustained climb on good rock. Original point of aid (19,M1) at top of pitch one has presumably been eliminated by Keith Bell. Start 50 m R of Northern Groove.

1. 15 m Crack through bulge, then R to thread belay at foot of groove leading to roof.

2. 35 m Groove, then fine crack on L. Round blunt arête, then slab to roof. Follow roof L to base of groove.

3. Groove past ledge, then up R to stance below corner.

4. Slab R of corner then up L above corner to sloping ledge.

5. 40 m Slab on L, then through crack in bulge to big ledge. Scramble up.