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Nodes em East Face

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Mostrando os 46 nodes.

Node
East Face

The cliff on Keira lost to time and the jungle. Mostly adventurous trad routes with a few good sports routes thrown in. The climbing areas are split in a few clumps along the long East face ranging from fairly simple to access to downright arduous bush bashing. The furthest routes along are quite difficult to access with lots of gear, and rappelling south from the main lookout should be considered (e.g. above Desperado). Some old carrot bolts feature but they should be treated with great caution!

24 Dead Ahead

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

11 Manic Depressive

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

17 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall to double rings

18 Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3)

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors

24 Frustrations

Start 2m left of MgTO3. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top.

23 Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors.

21 Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors.

21 It's not a Tuna

Left of tree. Up to double rings. Feel free to use tree as aid, drop the grade by 10 tho..

24 Bangers & Pash

Start on the face right of warhol. climb up a few meters and transition to the right side of the arete. grit stone style climbing up to the shared anchor with warhol. (Keeping on the left side of the arete the whole way would be excellent and exciting / hard 27? Open project)

25 Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

20 Mystery Achievements

The rock is pretty poor and the bolts badly need replacing! Leading this climb would get you into a maggot factory! Start 10m left of Warhol the shitty looking wall following the bolts to the lower off chain.

20 Five Bolts To Nowhere

4m to the left of this climb there is an unfinished project that starts just off the small corner. The bolts are pretty sus and it would give 21 a solid nudge

Warning! From here on in its pretty rough going. The next batch of climbs are a squeeze through thic

Warning! From here on in its pretty rough going. The next batch of climbs are a squeeze through thick vegetation and loose footings. With the exception of a few quality ring-bolted climbs most are dubious 'adventure climbs'. Watch out for old rusty bolts!

20 Hughes Spews

A climb for those addicted to adreneline! Start at the skinny crack. Up past the old creaking bolts.

17 Fools Rush In

A good climb to hone your human wedge skills. Climb the flared off-width groove. Start 3m to the left of Hughes Spews.

23 The Crap Stops Here

Nice hard wall climbing. You'll need 5 of your brackets. Start to the left of the center of the wall, opposite Fools Rush In. Pull onto the wall and up the old bolts to the top.

15 Bills Bumhole

We think its probably a 16. Here is the original description: The climb is unique in that you can get a rest (tsk tsk) by climbing up into a big black hole (fuck that!) in the roof before doing the crux. It is also unique in that it is probably the hardest 15 that you will ever climb. Start at the huge chimney at the left of The Crap Stops Here. Up the groove then go right when you get to the roof. Lots of rope drag (doubles are nice here).

24 Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

24 PRO

Strenuous climb. Start 1m left of Ringwraith. Follw the overhung scoop out left along the weakness, passing ringbolts until back to vertical. Up wall to double ring belay. Unclear if this project was ever completed?

11 M1 Hammer Head

The unpleasant corner crack. Up the crack using a hammer for aid. Still awaiting a free ascent!

20 Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 4 rings to double ring belay.

The next series of climbs are a short walk through the scrub.

The next series of climbs are a short walk through the scrub.

11 Jay

Marked with a small faded 'J'. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

14 Mangy Donkey

A nice crack. Starts left of Jay at the initials MD. Up the crack to the ledge, then follow the final moves of Jay.

15 Gourmet

One for us botanical minded! Start 2m left of Mangy Donkey in the right hand corner. Climb the corner.

14 M1 Andy

An old aid climb. Line of rusty carrots.

20 Gallows Tree

8m left of Gourmet at the thin crack. Bouldery moves then up the crack to ledge. Right traverse to groove then up to next ledge. Final moves follow the bulgy off-width OR follow the crack at the far right of the ledge.

16 Windy

Start in the lefthand corner 3m left of Gallows Tree. Up the flake and to the ledge. Layback (crux) around the roof then up to ledge above. Your choice of the cracks above.

20 Desperado

Start 4m left of Windy, under the overhanging corner. Up the corner to the smallish roof and traverse to the left to those jugs. Up to a belay in the groove. Follow the cracks up just right of the arete above the overhang and on up wall following your nose. Mixed trad route with carrots to start. The line of ringbolts left of the arete is a totally seperate route.

21 Super Creeps

Starts just left of the starting corner of Desperado. Up the arete and wall passing 9 RBs to double RB anchors. Worth the deathwalk, or an easy long rap in on a spare rope.

15 Sacrifice

The big chimney 10m left of Desperado. Climb the chimney until you're level with the traverse line. Traverse out to the right and belay at the smallish ledge with the rusty bolts. Continue right until you hit the groove of Desperado.

14 Death's Head

" A typical death lead of Muir's ". Start as for Sacrifice. Up the chimney to the traverse line, then out to the bolt belay under the small corner. Head up the weakness through the overhangs to the ledge. Rap off.

13 Sacrilege

Staright up the chimney as for 'Death's Head' and keep going.

18 Grouples

A thin face crack. Start 3m to the left of Sacrilege. Up to the ledge past the bolt on the right. Up the arete on the left to get to the base of the crack. Climb the crack to the ledge. Climb the wall to the larger ledge and rap off.

18 Fashion B

WhooHoo a chimney! Start 3m to the left of Grouples. Climb the chimney and off right to the ledge. Climb the crack to larger ledge and rap off.

17 Bog Spavin

4m to the left of Fashion B under the small roof with the corner crack. Up the corner past the rooves. Right to the ledge, climb the wall and rap of larger ledge.

14 Wind Galls

3m left of Bog Spavin. The off-width corner. Climb the corner and rap off ledge.

14 Chunder Crack

Start 3m left of Wind Galls at the cracks in the wall. Up the wall to tree, rap off.

11 Competition

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

20 M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

18 JK

Cool layback at top

These last two climbs are by themselves a short walk around in the next cliff area.

These last two climbs are by themselves a short walk around in the next cliff area.

19 Satan Sorrow

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

17 Hammer Horror

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

Beyond here is underneath the the South lookout and the massive rockfall scree field - beware!

Beyond here is underneath the the South lookout and the massive rockfall scree field - beware!

Mostrando os 46 nodes.

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