Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Coalcliff Sun Village | |||||
V3 | Choss Gobblers
Block below Total Eclipse of the Start. FA: Murray & matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
Rat's Crag Rat's Boulders | |||||
V1 | Mossman
Delicate start then easy up. | 4m | |||
V3 | Heffer
Start low in the crack jug, then move out right to the massive flake, delicately work up and into the flake crack without slipping off the wall as you top out! | 4m | |||
Veyron
Surprisingly tricky and tough chimney cum off-width. | 4m | ||||
Double Indemnity
Pockets and crimps to a couple of good jugs, then a mysterious flight to the top out... | 5m | ||||
V2 | Moss Vale
Stand start and up textured seam on mossy boulder. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Up d' hill
Start on low left sloper. Head up and left via sharp under-cling, big move with right hand. Slight traverse right to top out. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Leviathan
The left hand side of the cave, at large sloper. Straight up through undercling then gaston move in roof. Stop at the jug rail or continue to top out as for SFTJ . | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Straight for the Jugular
A classic fun roof problem. Big, powerful and straightforward moves. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Domain Expansion
Start with right hand on the pinch and left hand on the undercling, traverse inside the cave until spanning out to the undercling. Throw for the finish on the flake that ends before you top out the V4 FA: Lachlan Thomson & Jake Schwenke, 3 Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
★ Warriors come out to play
To the right of SFTJ in a contrived low start, through decent jugs growing farther apart then a committing top out over rough slopers. | 5m | ||||
★ Rats Link
A strenuous traverse from the left corner of the cave, out right then loop up left. Set: jason link | 10m | ||||
V3 | Changing Lanes
Under the roof up left across some crimp rails. | 3m | |||
Lift off
From low down work your feet up then launch a sweet dynamic move to the top of the ledge. | 2m | ||||
V9 | Punks Labyrinth
The first king line completed! Bring your knee pads to make good use of the two rests because this is looong. Links Prehistoric Punk -> Renegades of Punk -> Nirvana -> Punk Soccer then escapes out the chimney. FA: Matt Hoschke, 9 Oct 2021 | 15m | |||
V5 | ★★ Prehistoric punk
Make use of toe hooks and it becomes alot easier. FA: Kai Buckman | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Glory Days
Start at jugs just left of 'Bored Gecko' start, traverse left and up. The correct finish is to bunch up into the small cave matching the undercling. FA: Matt Hoschke, 11 Aug 2021 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Bored gecko
Short boulder with some big moves with big holds. Finishes at the obvious jug | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Renegades of punk
Start at the same big jug as Bored gecko. Go right making a massive move to traverse past the crack. Keep going right to Nidorian's knee bar and make another big move to big jug flake. FA: Kai Buckman & Leeham.B, 15 Aug 2021 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Spunk
Start up Pumprocker for a few moves, then head straight left reversing the crimp crux of Nirvana, and finish up the big undercling move of Renegades. FA: 4 Nov 2021 | 6m | |||
V6 | Illawarrior left variant
| 5m | |||
V6 | Illawarrior
| 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Nidoran's knee
Start at any of the circle of jugs at the base then at the end a knee bar helps get to a huge holde up and to the right | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Nirvana (as in the small indie punk band)
Basically the most obvious link from nidorans knee into pumprocker | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Pumprocker
Starts two hands on the undercling, using a toe hook off to the right makes the middle moves alot easier, finish at the jug rail at the top | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★ Punk soccer
Starting at the pump rocker finishing jug, trending up and right until finding a jug at the top of the bulg. Mantle up and left then finish up the committing slab. FA: Finn Tregurtha | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Punk Rocker
Pumprocker into Punk soccer. The full value FA: Finn Tregurtha | 8m | |||
V7 | Thirty-Three on Friday the 13th
Deep lying start, through the hard stuff then all the way out the chimney FA: Matt Hoschke, 13 Aug 2021 | 6m | |||
★★★ Paul's Slab Project
| 4m | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Lord of the leeches
Straight up the slab located to the right of the punk cave. | 5m | |||
V4 | Crunching pebbles
Sit start on nice ledge and head right and up. Via left-hand side pull pocket, slap for the top and top-out. Might be a bit harder for shorter climbers. | 5m | |||
Entrance project direct (V5?)
starting on the nice ledge and going straight up to top-out. | 4m | ||||
Crunching pebbles traverse project (v5+)
Sit start in the 'figure 8' looking pockets and power right into the end of crunching pebbles. | 9m | ||||
★★★ Pocket highball proj
Hoes up a few pockets and a few very small holds with nearly no feet. All moves have been done on top rope but yet to hear of an actual send. | 6m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Veins of Gold
The crack. Runs out. Commitment. FA: Dylan Hill | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★★ The Great Wall
A surprisingly technical ascent, more of a sport route. A committing final high ball sequence from a rest ledge to top out! | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Dreamers
The steep and ever shrinking ledge. Commitment. | 5m | |||
V1 | molecules
Located ~20m past the North flat wall. Sit start in pocket and up left to top-out. FA: The360guide, 29 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V3 | The Gnome
Start in the under cling and head right to top-out. FA: The360guide, 29 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
slab project
Needs a good clean. | |||||
V7 | ★★ Hidden Rain
Stand start on two good edges, high step to Gaston then lunge for that lip and hold the swing. FA: Finn Tregurtha, 29 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
project
Needs a good clean. | |||||
Chicken Pox
| 4m | ||||
Rat's Crag Rat's Sport | |||||
V2 | Armadillo
Plenty of good holds for a easy power boulder, but very exposed. | 3m | |||
Mount Keira West Face | |||||
21 | ★★ Grim Death
BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right). FA: Jon Muir | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Dr Cameltoe
Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft. Essentially climbs the wall left of GD without using the obvious holds on the routes either side. FFA: Graeme Hill & Muir Prehn FA: Johan Szabo, 2006 | 4m | |||
12 | Water Closet
Initialled. Climb the flake. FA: T.Ogle | 5m | |||
20 | Greasy Dog
An improbable overhanging red wall. No protection. FA: Ant Prehn | 5m | |||
15 | Bottle Bender
Face left of DSOTT. FA: Jon Muir | 6m | |||
V3 | Safety First
On the wall immediately to the right of The Arete By The Left Hand Side. Very thin up wall to the top. FA: Jon Muir & Graeme Hill | ||||
V2 | ★★ Arete by left hand side
Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem. | 5m | |||
10 | Egotistical Ratshit
Initialled. Up right to join BSOTB. FA: Graeme Hill & Graeme Hill Senior | 5m | |||
V2 | West Face Grand Traverse
A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh, 1976 | ||||
18 | Thin Death
14m Boulder problem. The arete left of HFBI. FA: Jon Muir | 14m | |||
V4 | ★★ west face grafffiti boulder
West face graffiti boulder. Located above main west face climbs. Such a obvious, superb line. Surely this has been climbed. Start just right of choss. Sit start, left hand in little low pocket. Right in perfect side pull pinch. Top out right of corroded water line FA: Daniel McKinnell, Sep 2020 FA: Luke, Sep 2020 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ Bowled Over
Sit start middle of wall. Left hand dimple pinch/side-pull (bowling ball hold), right hand finger pocket. Straight up and delicate top out left of middle bulge FA: Jason Capenecas, 9 Dec 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Hip Flexor
Far right side sit start. Start with either 2 side pulls in the lower crack section or left hand out on crimp. Get those starting feet dialed! Straight up and top out at plant FA: Daniel McKinnell, 9 Dec 2020 | 3m | |||
Mount Keira West Face Boulders Nitro Wall | |||||
V2 | ★ Happy Gas
Sit start on the big jug FA: Max Gordon | 4m | |||
V4 | Sweet Air
Sit start. Trending left up the vague arête FA: Dylan Tubaro & Finn Tregurtha | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ NOS
Sit start on the two underclings. Then up through sloppers to a tricky mantle FA: Max Gordon & South Coast Cucumber | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Gassy bum
Start at same holds as 'Nitro Wall Leftside' (V5), then climb left along until you reach happy gas and finish up this. FA: Bec Haisman | ||||
V5 | ★★ Nitro Wall Leftside
Sit start on the arete. Up the lip to top out same as the next problem. FA: Steve Bullen | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Untitled Route
Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out. FA: Steve Bullen, 2000 | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ Double Blower
Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill. FA: Steve Bullen | 4m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Comfortably Numb
Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle. Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's FA: Nick Montague | 5m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Redline
As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required! FA: Steve Bullen | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sinn Fein
Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0) Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone. FA: Unknown | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Brighton Hotel
The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip. Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top. FA: Oliver Kerr & Brett Heino, 2012 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Caffeination Fixation
Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it. On the holds right of Sinn Fein Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out. Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder). FA: Brett Heino, 2012 | 3m | |||
Mount Keira West Face Boulders Book Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ A Very Thin Book
Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start. FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Mr. Marsupial Learns To Read
Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC. FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ A Very Long Book
Do Mr. Marsupial, but instead of topping out as for the V1, traverse the entire upper slab of the book boulder to top out as for TBBOE. Set: Zachary Tynan FA: May 2020 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Hoschke meets Orwell
Sit start on obvious jug, then move up and left to a slopey top out. FA: Brett H, 23 Dec 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Book of Cracks
Sit start on the obvious two jugs as for Keira Sutra, and head straight up the funky crack to top out directly above starting holds. Feels very hard until you get the right beta. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Book of Cracks Stand
Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Book of Crackpipes
Sit start on jugs as for Keira Sutra, then head up and trend right to top out about 1.5 metres right of Book of Cracks. FA: 22 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Keira Sutra
Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of! FA: George Broadfoot, 15 Aug 2019 | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Lockdown
Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle. | ||||
V9 | ★★★ The Jungle Book
Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE FA: Paul Rattenbury, 10 Jun 2019 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Big Book Left Hand Variant
Instead of moving right hand to the lip, go with the left to a shallow pocket then RH bumps up to the good edge and mantle. FA: 8 Aug 2019 | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Big Book of Everything
Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle... FA: matt hoschke, 1 Jan 2018 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ The Big Book of Slabs
Start at the jug as for TBBOE, but instead of reaching for roof jugs move right around the lip via good (but sharp) crimps, mantle and top out as for TBBOE. Set: FA: Paul Rattenbury, 21 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ At the End of a Big Book
Start at the same jug as "the big book of slabs", then follow the crimp sequence around the lip and up onto the slab. Split from the "the big book of slabs" by moving right, away from the arete, to then mantle and top out. FA: Kell Lenehan, 5 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
Mount Keira West Face Boulders Jam Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Chilli Jam
Start low, hugging the boulder with left and right arete, use the arete on either side to progress. Trend left using crimps and slopers to top. FA: Isaac Gray, 25 Jul 2021 | 3m | |||
Mount Keira West Face Boulders Tick Boulder | |||||
V2 | Pie of sorrows
To start, match on the deep hold to the left of the boulder and bump right hand to the upper slit. keep traversing to the far side. Top out through the side of the boulder via the holds at the side and the top. Mind the footwork at the start, very cramped but fun. FA: Mazzie D | ||||
V1 | Aunt May's foot jam
Start wherever feels comfortable on the rails below, left foot jam into the hole, right foot on the lower rail. Span left hand up to the crimp, palm the start hold and move up through the crimps to the top out. FA: Mazzie D | ||||
V2 | ★ Fish Cake
Start matched on obvious right rail, move to left crimp and top. FA: Samuel Eschler | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Cheese Cake
Start matched as for 'Fish Cake', big move out to right crimp and then top out. FA: Isaac Gray | 2m | |||
Mount Keira West Face Boulders | |||||
V1 | Local Special
FA: 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Bowlo
FA: 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Traino
FA: 2020 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Snake Eyes
FA: Matt Hoschke, 2020 | 2m | |||
V7 | Snake Eyes Left
Sit start on pockets, slap out left to slopers and then up and over with small crimp. FA: Mark McGivern, 1 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V3 | Skink Eyes
| 2m | |||
V7 | ★★ Split Tip
Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles! FA: May 2020 | 4m | |||
Arêde
The hard Arête project to the right of Split Tip. Maybe V9-10? | |||||
V4 | Quiet Mice Arete
FA: paul rattenbury, 2020 | 3m | |||
Mount Keira South Face | |||||
21 | A Dream of Pat's Horses
Traverse high line from Ganglion to No 1 Crack. FA: Graeme Hill | 9m | |||
Mount Keira Pox Crag | |||||
Breach
Further still around. Nice slight ramp with delicate features. Don't use the chimney. | 3m | ||||
V1 | Those aren’t berries
A very short climb with potential to lengthen and upgrade. Start low on the jug with a foot up on the underside of the overhang, complete a few moves to match on the tiny ledge feature. FA: Josh Zylstra, 10 Nov 2023 | 2m |