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Howser Spire Massif
Howser Spire, or Howser Spire Massif, is a group of three distinct granite peaks, and the highest mountain of the Canadian Bugaboo Spires. The mountain is located at the southwest corner of the Vowell Glacier, within the Bugaboo mountain range in the Purcell Mountains, a subrange of British Columbia's Columbia Mountains, The highest of the three spires is the North Tower at 3,412 m (11,194 ft), the Central Tower the lowest, and the South Tower is slightly lower than the North at 3,292 m (10,801 ft). Under the spire Howser Spire is named after the town of Howser on Duncan Lake and Howser Creek. The Beckey-Chouinard/West Buttress route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world. |
North Howser Tower
For the big boys and girls. |
North Howser Tower |
5.8 A2 V North-Northwest Face |
5.7 A2 V Northwest Buttress |
5.12 Eye of Providence |
5.11d A2 All Along the Watchtower |
5.12+ Armageddon |
5.9 A3 VI Warrior |
5.9 A3 VI Young Warrior |
5.10d VI Dodging Deanna |
5.12- A1 Spicy Red Beans and Rice |
5.11- VI The Seventh Rifle |
5.11a VI
Under Fire
Link up of 'The Shooting Gallery', '7th Rifle' and 'Young Men on Fire' |
5.10 A2+ VI The Shooting Gallery |
5.11- A4 VI Young Men on Fire |
5.11 A2 VI Southwest Face |
5.6 III South Ridge |
5.4 III North Ridge |
5.10 A3+ V Fear and Desire |
5.9 A2 V Chocolate Fudge Brownie |
5.11+ Voodoo Chile |
5.11 C2 The Simulator |
5.11+ Hey Kool-Aid! |
Central Houser Tower |
South Howser Tower |
South Howser Tower |
5.10a
★★★ Beckey-Chouinard
This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's more than 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.
From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach. |
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