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The Cave, Left

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Ascensões: 3

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Descrição

It resides in the Banff National Park, and has it’s own parking area, thanks to a few things, but about 2 km from the park gates, heading west, turn right into the parking area. The main function of this parking area used to be for the Banff Waste Disposal/Dump, but many people forget this and decide to ignore the fact. The park service covered and filled it in and did a very nice job, put up a new fence and built a nice set of stairs for hikers, walkers and climbers to get over the fence. Then the Honorable Sheilah Copps, minister of Heritage for the Liberal Federal government decided to make the area a wildlife corridor (not that the wildlife hadn’t used this area for eons) and removed the stairs, but could not legally shut access down – simply asked climbers to refrain from climbing in the canyon. Most of us abided by the rule, and still do, and climbed elsewhere. The parks service started clear-cutting the area for a firewall to protect Canmore. Well, as you may notice, clear cutting and fires will do more to detract from the “wildlife” than climbers and hikers. Besides that, why build a firewall to protect Canmore in the Park itself? The parks service could easily have built one just outside the park boundary – well we may never know, as the federal government has never been very good at coming clean or being “smart” about it’s environmental decisions - Enough of that. New Parks Work There are many other areas to climb – but this one has history and I wanted to let climbers know about it.

Vias

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Grade Via

Crux at the 4th bolt on cool rock, too a pumpy roof. Really loose Choss. Not a very nice route

Climb some nice low angle stone, crimpers, slopers, tufas and then out the two-tier roof system. Excellent route, probably one of the best 13’s in the valley.

A low angle start on technical balancey edges, then get ready for some tugging out the two-tier roof with big moves. Abit sporty to the anchor.

FA: Shep Steiner

The 5.11c with the bolts gone. loose death rock

14.a

Starts at the bottom of the overhanging corner about 15m uphill from the Oedipus. Slopers, crimpy, funky and fun.

Start is a bit weird – uphill and around the corner from Elmer, and just left of “Last Boy Scout” – climb up a couple of moves, then track left around the corner onto the main wall. c. Long with 2 distinctive cruxes – awesome route

Tremaine bolted a route right of Mouthful – it goes straight up the right side of the blunt arête/corner – awaits some love

Just outside the left end of the cave. Big, powerful moves between flat holds give way to more technical climbing and a pumpy finish. Slopers, crimpy, funky and fun.

Set: joe buszowski, 1994

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