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Carrot Creek
It resides in the Banff National Park, and has it’s own parking area, thanks to a few things, but about 2 km from the park gates, heading west, turn right into the parking area. The main function of this parking area used to be for the Banff Waste Disposal/Dump, but many people forget this and decide to ignore the fact. The park service covered and filled it in and did a very nice job, put up a new fence and built a nice set of stairs for hikers, walkers and climbers to get over the fence. Then the Honorable Sheilah Copps, minister of Heritage for the Liberal Federal government decided to make the area a wildlife corridor (not that the wildlife hadn’t used this area for eons) and removed the stairs, but could not legally shut access down – simply asked climbers to refrain from climbing in the canyon. Most of us abided by the rule, and still do, and climbed elsewhere. The parks service started clear-cutting the area for a firewall to protect Canmore. Well, as you may notice, clear cutting and fires will do more to detract from the “wildlife” than climbers and hikers. Besides that, why build a firewall to protect Canmore in the Park itself? The parks service could easily have built one just outside the park boundary – well we may never know, as the federal government has never been very good at coming clean or being “smart” about it’s environmental decisions - Enough of that. New Parks Work There are many other areas to climb – but this one has history and I wanted to let climbers know about it. |
Muscle Beach |
Muscle Beach |
5.11a ★ Hard Bodies |
5.12b ★ The Venice Strut |
5.11d ★★ Muscle Beach |
5.11c Beach Balls |
Entrance Wall |
Entrance Wall |
5.11c
★ Demonstone
Start on the left side of the corner and climb onto an arete. Veer left in order to pull over the bulge on the way to the anchor. |
5.12a
★★★ The Hummingbird Arete
Easyish climbing to a sloper ledge. This is where the fun begins- 4 bolts of pumpy slopers up the beauty arete! Absolute classic. |
5.10a
★★★ Book Worm
The big corner. |
5.11c
★★★ Higher Learning
Climb book worm to the top of the corner before continuing straight up past a small roof to a cruxy bulge. |
5.12a
★★ Open Book Exam
Head for an open book corner in the yellow rock without getting suckered into climbing straight up the corner. |
5.11c ★ Why Shoot the Teacher? |
5.11d
★ Learning the Game
Enjoy great climbing up a beautiful grey streak. |
5.10b
★ Educational Process
Start in yellow rock and follow a weakness leftward before heading up a blank slab to a blue streak. |
5.11b ★★ Quantum Physics |
5.10d ★ Midterm |
5.10a
Entrance Exam
Start just left of a mossy corner. Follow good juggy stone to the anchors. |
5.11a The Accidental Tourist |
5.11b ★ Advanced Education |
Westside Buttress |
Westside Buttress |
5.10b ★ Wetback |
5.10c ★★ Gringo |
5.11a ★ Salsa Inglesa |
5.10b April Fool |
5.11a Self Abuse |
5.11b ★ Stinkfinger |
5.11a ★ The New Painted Lady |
5.11b ★ Just Another John |
5.12a ★ The Fine Print |
5.11b ★★ Comfortably Numb |
5.10d ★★ Summertime Blues |
5.10d ★★ Bite the Rainbow |
5.11c ★ Mistral (M'= Tall Persons Start) |
5.10c ★★ Scirocco |
5.11c ★★ The Hardest 5.8 in the Rockies |
5.10d ★ Aquacide |
5.10d Monkey Puzzle |
5.12a ★★ Silver Surfer |
Graffiti Wall |
Graffiti Wall |
5.11c ★★ Dayglo Rage |
5.11d ★★ Physical Graffiti |
5.12a ★★ No More Mr Nice Guy |
5.11b ★★ Young Guns |
5.11c ★★ Suspended Sentence |
5.10d ★ The Last Word |
5.10a
★ American Graffiti
Follow buckets up a right trending ramp, where it becomes a little uncomfortable and awkward. Presumably the crux. |
Sun City |
Sun City |
5.12b ★ Third Degree Burn |
5.11d ★★ Sun City |
5.11d ★ Sunshine Boys |
5.10a Entrance Exam |
Raven's Nest Buttress
A pump like no other in the Rockies. Openhanded sloppers for days! |
Raven's Nest Buttress |
5.10b
★★ Merlin's Laugh Left
Start up the large corner at the left end of the wall and climb a right trending ramp above. From the top trend slightly right before tackling a series of overlaps capped a funky mantle. A long draw helps reduce too drag on the 6th bolt. |
5.11a
★★ Merlin's Laugh (Original Start)
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.10b
★ Merlins laught pt 2
Continue above the anchors of merlins laugh |
5.10b
★★ Hey presto
Start to the right of a corner and climb a discontinuous groove on slopers and edges. |
5.11a
★★ Before your very eyes
Climb Hey Presto to a no hands rest stance out right. Climb up and slightly left on sloppers to a cool Boulder problem. Finish with a sensational move! |
5.11d
★★★ Alacazam
This is an outstanding pitch of climbing- maybe the best for grade in the canyon. Climb abracadabra to a bitter end to the top of the featureless face before continuing up through the blocky roofs on small holds. Finish In the alcove above |
5.11d
★★★ Abracadabra
Same story as Alacazam but veer right at the top of the featureless face instead of straight up. Tackle a great crux on sloppers to a quick shake then tackle another roof into a corner. Take a breathe and jump into the redpoint crux pulling the lip at the top of the whole wall to a moderate finish. Absolutely beautiful movement with an array of different holds. Classic |
5.11b
★★ Abracadabra to a bitter end
Climb a left facing corner and fun for the left side of a featureless slab. At the top veer left through a series of blocky roof son anchors at the top of a short corner. |
5.11d
Sleight of Abracadabra
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.10c
★ Sleight of hand
Climb a large left facing corner and veer right into a smaller corner system. From the top follow a system of flakes rightward to the anchor. |
5.11a
★★ Problems with Guinness
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11b
★★★ Magic in the air
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11b
★★★ The Magus
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12c
★★ The Sword in the Stone
When a route is a 3m extension and rated as 5.12c, expect something very hard. A great little puzzle. |
5.11d
★★ The Short Sword
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12a
★★★ Calibrun
The holds feel positive but the open handed nature of the climbing keeps the pump constantly on the horizon. |
5.11b
★★ The Magus pt 2
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12a
★★★ The Warlock
Begin this classic just left of a large corner. Big moves between really good holds leads to a fat undercling. A great crux on pumpy holds is followed by a traverse right and the anchors. |
5.13b
★★ American Standard
The extension to The Warlock. American Standard is the name of a toilet company; thus the holds in the route have the same texture as porcelain toilets. |
5.10c
★ Coprophobia
5.10a corner climbing to an arete above. V1 Boulder problem at the last bolt |
5.11b
★ Sidekick
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11c
★★ The Sorcerer's Apprentice
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12b
★ The Lizard
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12b
★★ The Gizzard
Short but packs a punch. Steep pumpy climbing on sloppers! |
5.12a R
★ The Wizard
Powerful fun steep climbing stops at the roof with a boulder problem. Slabby run out face climbing above |
5.13b
Cup o' Joe
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12a
★★ Shadow of the Man
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11c
Sewersidal tendencies
This pitch is located at the top of the gully and starts just to te right of the water polished groove. A steep start leads to vertical climbing |
5.11b
Witches Brew
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11c
★★ The Illusionist
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11c
★ Hocus Pocus
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11c
Stolen Thunder
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11b
Stolen Thunder -Alternate Finish
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11b
★ Prince of Darkness
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11b
★★ 110 in the Shade
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.12b
★★ Nothing Up My Sleeves
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.10c
★ The Enchantress
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.10c
Dirty Trick
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11b R
★★ No Sloppy Seconds
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11d
★ Brewmeister
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
5.11d
Cerveza Sundae
Survive two roofs before following a corner on the left to anchors at the lip. |
5.11c
Mephisto
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
Project O
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
Project P
Carrot creek is on a wild life corridor. Parks asks people not to climb here. But if you love climbing, then it's hard not to. |
Gully Wall |
Gully Wall |
5.11c ★★ Sewersidal Tendencies |
5.11d ★★ Cerveza Sundae |