This tucked away corner of black rock is well shaded and escapes most of the sun during the day, even as the sun comes around.
A few enjoyable 10s and 11s can be found here.
Access in Ontario is VERY SENSITIVE. Please climb with care and respect for the crag and other users. Practice Leave No Trace. Check with the OAC at ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca to keep updated on access issues.
From Headspace Area - approach to the base of this area is between 25-20 minutes. You will pass the Lion's Head lookout on the way to this section. Access this section of the cliff after descending Stinger Gulley.
After descending the gulley, going climber's left, his section is located on a very large ledge that is about 2-3 feet high from the cliff-base trail. Easy scramble up.
Practice LEAVE NO TRACE at all times. Pack out what you pack in. Carry a plastic bag to collect garbage on the way out, if possible. There are no washroom facilities at this crag.
Be mindful of your group size and noise. Keep party numbers to a minimum - avoid playing loud music while at the cliff given that accessing climbs requires rappelling and line-fixing, other climbing parties need to be able communicate without having to contend with artificial noise.
Car-camping (and Van-Life) are not permitted in town or its surrounding areas.
This is a recommended resource in regards to local ethics https://www.rockrespect.ca/climbers-code
Want to contribute to route development? Go to the Ontario Climbing page and contribute to the Hardware Fund (or grab a printed guidebook while helping out!) https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/
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Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Data: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046610
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.
Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Data: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046603
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.
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