Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Murder Hole - with Jen B | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
#2. Why does this feel more like a 5.9 at times?
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5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy - with Jen B | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#3. Messed up the crux, fell off slicing my palm. Caught by Jen who saw it coming. Failed second attempt; finally remembered the higher right hand beta for the crux on my third (and successful) attempt.
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5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle - with Jen B | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#4 of the day. Led, then Jen TR'd, then I went up and tried the direct line instead of my usual left jog at the 3rd draw as a TR to clean the route and rap down.
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5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk - with Jen B | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#1/4. Led. Then Jen did her first ever NS climb, and first time climbing in about a decade and a half.
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle — 2 attempts | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★ Metrambolopolis | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
This felt WAY harder than 5.9. Like WAY harder. I ended up tugging on draws in disbelief. The movement is very fun,and overall a quality slightly overhanging climb. Overhanging crimps up onto an intimidating slab. If you're a 5.9 leader this thing might punch you and steal all of your money. I almost want to suggest higher than 5.10a, as I found Jack and Stokify easier.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.12a | The Golden Egg | 10m, 4 | |||||
5.10a | ★ Slim Dusty | 11m, 3 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Humpty Trumpty | ||||||
5.10b ~5.10d | ★★ Taming the Shrew — 2 attempts | 13m, 6 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Quantum Shopvac | 8m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Noble Cause | 8m, 4 | |||||
Wed 12th Jul 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Quantum Shopvac | 8m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Noble Cause | 8m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Cassiopeia | 13m | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle | 14m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | Use Your Magic Beans | ||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Noble Cause | 8m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle | 14m, 5 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk | 11m, 3 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Crocodile Tiers | 14m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | Use Your Magic Beans | ||||||
Mon 15th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ You Don't Know Jack | ||||||
Realized at the top I should of led this. Great route, super secure.
There is a large loose hold. I marked it with a chalk X. I thought about removing it but there was a lot of people and a dog or two around. |
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5.10b | ★★ Taming the Shrew | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I really tried. That wicked jug on the rail to the right of where it gets hard is so sharp, felt like I had grabbed boiling water after.
Stoked to project this over the season as a benchmark. |
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5.9 | ★★ Quantum Shopvac | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
This is a 5.9, but don't be fooled it is not the same 5.9 as the route to the right of it, as I've now learned. Fun, but pumpy!
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5.9 | ★ Noble Cause | 8m, 4 | |||||
Wicked fun! Great holds the entire way. Sebastian topped it by mantling and ignoring the chimney on the left. I was.... not so brave...
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5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell once on the roof but figured out the beta pretty quickly. Stoked to get back out and send this.
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Really cool climb over ledges.
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Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Humpty Trumpty - with Will S | ★ Good | |||||
#6/6. Obviously tired, fell off a couple times. But got to the top, eventually. Felt strong, just ... inefficient.
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5.10b | ★★ Taming the Shrew - with Will S | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#5. Better than last time but still spanked in the middle bits with the traverse & layback. Gotta work on better footwork for a more stable transition.
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5.10a | ★★★ You Don't Know Jack - with Will S | ★★★ Classic | |||||
#4. Always a good time, this one.
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5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy - with Will S | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
#2/6. One of my fave climbs at Castle. Gotta love a knee bar!
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5.10c | ★ Trebuchet - with Will S | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
#3. Don't love this one, but I should eventually lead it.
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5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds - with Will S | ★★ Very Good | |||||
#1/6. Not the most smooth, but also did it in one go instead of the usual flail getting over the lip. Will placed gear so I had that going for me
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Cassiopeia | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First lead of the day, what a great climb!
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5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ending is super fun! Wanders quite a bit. Will need to go back and attempt lead.
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5.6 | ★★ Murder Hole | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Attempted this first on lead, but the traverse to the left, then back to the right between the second and third bolt got a bit heady for me with a relatively inexperienced belayer. Gui attempted as well and failed at the same point. Austin red pointed to final bolt and I lead from there and set up TR. What a mess. Don’t underestimate the Murder Hole, the whip potential is real!
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Taming the Shrew - with ashlyn, brad | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle - with ashlyn, brad | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 5.8 G | ★★ Castle Breach | ||||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Smell the Blood | 13m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum | 12m, 5 | |||||
Cool high step move!
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5.9 | ★ Noble Cause | 8m, 4 | |||||
Very fun climb, good holds, great lead!
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Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Murder Hole | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.11a | ★ Declaration of Stoke | ★ Good | |||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, Nick Boldt | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Smell the Blood - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, Nick Boldt | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, Nick Boldt | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, Nick Boldt | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
#1. Ye Olde Warmup. Led. Woo.
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5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan | 12m, 5 | |||||
#2. Lead #2 of the day, first time doing this free & clean without needing a rest. Hung the last draw, lowered myself, brief rest on the undercling, then went for it and blammo, done. Josh led this clean, with a pause before the crux to figure stuff out, then Kevin seconded/cleaned it and I went back up to do it myself on my own gear. There was also some minor drama with Josh needing to be switched out as belayer as he was struggling to pay out slack using a grigri (he's better / more experienced on an ATC; should have started with that). Will encourage him to use the grigri more for lead belay so he can get more experience and dial it in as well as he is w/ the ATC.
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5.9 | ★ Smell the Blood - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
#3. Kevin attempted, decided he wasn't feeling it after the first bolt. Josh declined. So I got to lead it. Still not a fan. Had to grab the last draw and yell take, & have a pause to suss out the beta (don't go right up the face, jog right then up). I suppose a better climber could just muscle up the delicate slab crux ending, but meh, not for me today.
Kevin and Josh both completed this on TR. |
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5.11a | ★ Declaration of Stoke - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan | ||||||
#4. An attempt was made on TR. It was... less than stellar.
After a few attempts at the overhang/bulge crux, gave up, yanked my ass up on the rope, managed a move or so, found the hands, cheated my way to the rings. Might consider a repeat on this, but next time would run up Fee Fi Fo Fum instead of Smell the Blood to get the TR anchor set up. Josh attempted the overhang crux but got shut down by the top rope preventing movement. Challenging route to project due to overhang & rope drag. |
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5.8 | ★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#5. Quick lap on this easy route to end the day. Lead w/ draws already hung by Kevin.
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Mon 22nd Aug 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 5th May 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Cassiopeia | 13m | |||||
Mon 2nd May 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Noble Cause - with Will S | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
#3. So. Wet. Not a fan.
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5.6 | ★ Crocodile Tiers - with Will S | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#5. WAAAY easier than the first time I led this. Even skipped a bolt near the top.
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5.10b | ★ Humpty Trumpty - with Will S | ||||||
#4. Will led, with pauses, and went far left into the bushes, using a tree stump at one point.
I then went up on his gear, and tried the right side of the overhang instead, which was a bit grovelling and felt ballsy... but great. Ultimately the beta is probably to just pull OVER the face, but hey. Will definitely do that one again. |
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5.8 | Use Your Magic Beans - with Will S | ||||||
#1. Lead, with Karla and Peter on the trad line to the left. Felt really good -- my slab game is improving!
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5.10c | ★ Trebuchet - with Will S | 12m, 4 | |||||
#2. Big stiff for a warmup, but Karla and Peter had moved over to Crocodile Tiers, so we moved on to this instead.
Would do again, but oof, glad I was on TR for the overhang crux bits. Left a draw on the 2nd bolt on the way down, making Will have to climb up to that, unclip it, then unstickclip the bottom draw. Whoops! |
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Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Murder Hole | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
A classic tho considered sandbagged, the whip i took under-estimating it confirmed it lol
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds | ||||||
I had a lot of trouble shifting from the slab onto the other slab, My first attempt at my send were about a year apart
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Thu 14th Apr 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy - with Will S | 12m, 5 | |||||
#3. With the draws already hung, was able to try Will's beta -- staying low under the bulge with a knee bar to rest until ready for the big move to get up on the face. Next time will need to figure out how to hang the draw, climb back down, rest, and then push through.
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5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle - with Will S | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#1. Warmup. I still have a tendency to jog left at the crux instead of pushing through the direct line, but hey.
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5.10a | ★★★ You Don't Know Jack - with Will S | ||||||
#4: great route - mix of styles from jugs to overhang to delicate traverse to slab.
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5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds - with Will S | ★★ Very Good | |||||
#2. With Will's beta, I think I might be able to actually lead this clean next time. That left toe crux move though, yikes.
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Wed 30th Mar 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | Use Your Magic Beans | ||||||
Thu 24th Mar 2022 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle | 14m, 5 | |||||
Awesome lead for newer climbers, good hands and feet
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Thu 25th Nov 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk | 11m, 3 | |||||
Sat 13th Nov 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Release the Hounds | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 12th Nov 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Taming the Shrew - with Nathan B | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#5 on the day. Temps were dropping a little and hands / feet were getting cold. That's my excuse for having to hangdog a couple times in the middle of the route. The bottom: easy. The top, no problem. The crux in the middle: yeah, that'll require some projecting to get it dialed in. Made a mess of it and flailed around, but did finally finish it.
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Mon 27th Sep 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.6 | ★ Crocodile Tiers | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 15th Sep 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Crocodile Tiers | 14m, 5 | |||||
Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Quantum Shopvac - with Bianca S, Climb-Connors | 8m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#4, TR. Way more fun than last time (it was much cooler.)
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5.8 | ★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum - with Bianca S, Climb-Connors | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#2. Haven't done this in ages and sounded like a freight train pulling through the first couple bolts. Fun climbing above that.
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5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk - with Bianca S, Climb-Connors | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
#1. Bianca led, then Sean, then I TR'd & cleaned on rappel. Ye. Olde. Warmup.
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5.9 | ★ Noble Cause - with Bianca S, Climb-Connors | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
#3. Stick clipped the first 2 bolts, but didn't fall off or break any rock this time. Some mossy, wet spots; otherwise a nice climb.
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Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | |||||||
Castle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Wizards of the Castle - with Climb-Connors, Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan, Bianca S, Dave C | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#4. Josh's first 5.8 lead. He crushed it.
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5.6 | ★★ Murder Hole - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan, Climb-Connors, Bianca S, Dave C | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
#2. Lead. Same ol'.
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5.8 | ★★ Castle Breach - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan, Climb-Connors, Bianca S, Dave C | ||||||
#5. Kevin's lead, Josh's second/clean. Then I ran up it on TR. Great climb, should give this a whirl as a trad lead some time.
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5.7 | ★★ Up the Beanstalk - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan, Climb-Connors, Bianca S, Dave C | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
#1. Bianca led, everyone did a lap, I cleaned.
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5.10a | ★ Stoke-i-fy - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan, Climb-Connors, Bianca S, Dave C | 12m, 5 | |||||
#3. ALMOST got this without having to hangdog before the crux. Next time!
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5.8 | ★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore - with Joshua Matsell Sullivan, K Sullivan, Climb-Connors, Bianca S, Dave C | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#6. Sean attempted to lead this but took a whipper from above and to the right of the second bolt. Kevin (or Josh?) led it and set up TR; Bianca then mock-led it, putting in extra draws. I then led using her draws and cleaned the whole thing. It took a village.
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