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The Boom Boom Room 🚫

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Ascensões: 146

Fechado para escalada neste local.

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Questões de acesso herdado de Dark Side

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT

For continued access to remain open, the most important thing is for all climbers to immediately stop using the trail that has been the approach for many years (we'll call this the "upper trail"). This trail is now closed and must not be used. Anyone using this trail puts all climbing at Darkside in serious jeopardy.

Instead, we've built a new approach trail (we'll call this the "lower trail"). To use the lower trail, start out from the parking lot as you would for the upper trail, but very quickly you'll see a sign that directs you to the right and down towards the river. Take this trail down wooden ladders to the river level and turn left. Proceed for about 100m and you'll see another sign directing you to a trail on your left, heading back up the hill into the forest. Take this second trail about half way up and you'll find a new trail (turn right) that will take you all the way to the crag. There are several signs along the way (see photos).

If you see any climber using the upper trail, please politely explain the situation and prompt them to use the lower trail from now on.

Thanks for being responsible community members. Our access to this beloved crag is in all of our hands.

Ética herdado de Dark Side

Do not climb here for at least 24 hours after rain. The sandstone is porous and is very brittle when wet.

There are a few routes at this crag equipped with top anchor hooks. These are to enable safe and convenient lowering only, and should never be used to top rope through.

Vias

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The left of the two routes around the corner on the spire.

FA: Bill Reading & Greg Sorensen

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The right of the two routes around the corner on the spire.

FA: Bill Reading & Greg Sorensen

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Follows the left arete of the big slab on the north wall of the grotto.

FA: Bill Reading & Greg Sorensen

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A Nanaimo classic. Follow thin edges and pockets up the center of the steep slab.

FA: Alan Hepples & Jonathan Hamilton

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The chimney route starting in the large crack between the spire and adjacent wall. Polished rock.

FA: Bill Reading

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A good warm up, goes up the face on the big detached pillar.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

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Trad lower half with a low first bolt. Two pieces in the crack will take you to your bolted bulging crux.

FA: Greg Sorensen

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The crack to the right of the big leaning tree. Good gear for the first half, then a couple ok placements, then one bolt just below the anchor.

FA: Greg Sorensen

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The mixed route just right of the tree with the serpent like roots. Scramble up to the high first bolt, then tackle the thin balancy slab crux. Once on the ledge, place one or two pieces in the upper crack. Seems run out but it isn’t.

FA: Greg Sorensen & Bill Reading

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The route just left of Pigtails and Miniskirts. Start up the middle of the wall and tackle the crux overhang.

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Climb up to then above the large pocket and onto good ledges above.

FA: Jonathan Hamilton & Alan Hepples

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Climb the right arete of the short wall, first bolted climb on the right as you enter the grotto.

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Start on the small elevated ramp, climb up the short slab, then into the short but high quality corner crack.

FA: Greg Sorensen & Donna Sorensen

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The first bolted line on the left as you emerge from the entrance tunnel.

FA: Greg Sorensen

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A strenuous sequence right off the ground, then follow the diagonal crack up to a ledge. A thin finger crack on the left leads to a second ledge, then a flake gets you to the anchor. The gear is quite good but a bit fiddly.

FA: Greg Sorensen

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A reachy, technical sequence right off the ground (crux) is protected by two bolts, then the shallow corner crack (10a) takes you to the top. The gear is good, but somewhat spaced out (8 feet or so between placements.

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

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Follows a lie back crack up a smooth, slabby dihedral.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

FA: Kent Krauza, 10 Sep 2020

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Follows the left arete of the big vertical face.

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

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Follows the right arete of the big vertical face.

FA: Jonathan Hamilton & Alan Hepples

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Follows a flake system on the left face of the chossy gully. Protection is good except at the crux, where the crack flares.

FA: Ryan Kurytnik

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Follows a fun flake system up the face, then a good rest ledge before the strenuous crux just below the anchor.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

FA: Kent Krauza, 16 May 2017

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Start up a series of blocks into an alcove, then head up the steep strenuous face above. Use a runner on the oddly located third bolt to reduce rope drag.

FA: Greg Sorensen

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Climb up the arete to the right of Too Much Boogie. The crux is on the thin slab just below the anchor.

FA: Greg Sorensen

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The route that starts on the large block in the Boom Boom Room. The crux is between the first and second bolts.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fechado

The route that starts beside the step/rope out of the Boom Boom Room. A wandering route with the crux at the traverse near the top.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Data: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

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