Vias em Central Apron

5 pitches, all bolted belay stations. Rappel descent. See quickdraw publications free topos for details.

1. Starts up a finger crack at the base of the v-groove on the approach to the start of Diedre, Banana Peel, etc.

2. Head up the crack on the right of the belay, it gets thinner as it goes up and ends with a short slab section protected by a single bolt. Same anchor as pitch 1 of Dirty Little White Boys.

3. Go up and right through the trees and up the ramp to the bolted belay just above the fir tree.

4. Enjoy the laybacks right up the dihedral until you reach the bolted belay. (If you plan to skip the final 5.10 pitch head right to the rappel anchor just before the top of the pitch.)

5. Thin corners with a bolted face climb in the middle and ends with a short downclimb to reach the final anchor. Rap from here using the dedicated rappel route (climbers right of the trees), or quest onto the blank slab above (pitch 5 of Dream On).

The route combines a number of new pitches with old pitches of 'Bloodlust' and 'Bandwagon'.

1. Ascend the slab past several bolts and discontinuous crack features to a ledge on the right

2. Thin moves with close bolts leads to easy rambling and a station 10m above the large ledge

3. Step right into the thin corner and follow it all the way to the top. A few face moves to the left take you to the anchor. Many nut and small cam placements

4. Past an old chain station at the top of the corner, and horizontally out right across the slab. You will be crossing Dancing in the Light at your 4th bolt. Continue right to the base of a crack system.

5. Up intermittent cracks until forced to step right around the arête into flakes on the side-wall of the Diedre corner. Up these for several metres, then back left past two bolts into the next crack system. You may need to give climbers on Diedre space when in the close section. Belay at the large ledge with a cedar tree.

6. The splitter hands-to-fingers corner, and face crack above. Begin on the right behind the tree.

7. Step right into a scoop, and follow the blunt arête to a station just below a ramp leading to Broadway ledge.

Gear:

• Nuts
• Cams TD to #3
• Double Cams to #1

Descent:

Probably wise to keep the rope on to get up onto Broadway, then down right to the top of Diedre. 40m 4th class. Standard Apron descent to the South.

Nails slab.