Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Local de escalada | Qualidade | Climber | Data | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Via ferrata | |||||||||
B | Ferrata Via Barbara | 200m | Hvar | Average | Thu 29th Apr 2021 | ||||
B/C | Ferrata Via Mirko - with Emma | 80m | Hvar | Wed 11th Sep 2019 | |||||
Fun day out, some dude gave us cold beers at the top of the mountain. Nice
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Trad | |||||||||
3 3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | Sat 7th May 2016 | |||||
3 3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Tue 24th Jul 2007 | ||||
3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben - with Daniel Kovacs | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | Average | Wed 15th Jul 2020 | ||||
Easy to get lost if you try to follow the 2017-19 topo with only photos.
5-6 has no bolts but can be done together with a 60m rope. The chimney is very nice at the end.
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3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben - with Fehér Csaba | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Jul 2020 | ||||
On the first 5 pitches, if you need trad gear, you are lost.
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3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | |||||
3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | |||||
3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Sep 2022 | ||||
Till 5th length found only 2 belay stations. Many bolts along the route. We didn’t belay, just climbed tied with rope 6-7m to each other. At 5th station we left the route and descent to Bjela rampa (after going down you have to walk up a little bit)
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3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | |||||
3+ | ★ Sjeverni greben | 170m, 10 | Paklenica | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
5a | ★★ Celjski stup | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | Fri 8th May 2015 | |||||
5a | ★★ Celjski stup | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | ||||
bitte Friends mitnehmen. 1. SL eher etwas schwieriger
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5a |
★★ Celjski stup
1
2
3
4
| 160m, 7 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | ||||
only climbed the first pitch as there was only a single bolt as first anchor. Didn't want to belay off of that... But the lady from the park administration explained me afterwards that this bolt is drilled much deeper and just as safe as an anchor with chain... anyway the first pitch was fun!
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5b |
★★ Celjski stup
- with
Matyas Tomolya
1
5b
50m
2
4a
40m
3
3a
40m
4
4a
40m
| 170m, 7 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sun 20th Oct 2019 | ||||
5a |
★★ Celjski stup
1
5a
40m
2
4a
40m
3
3a
40m
4
4a
40m
| 160m, 7 | Paklenica | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | |||||
5a |
★★ Celjski stup (Celjski stup P1)
- with
Bađi, Gulič, Primož, Mateja
1
5a
40m
| 40m, 7 | Paklenica | Mon 17th May 2010 | |||||
5b 5a | ★★ Celjski stup | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | |||||
5a | ★★ Celjski stup - with Attila Pethő | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | |||||
5a | ★★ Celjski stup | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jul 2022 | ||||
5c 5a | ★★ Celjski stup | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Aug 2022 | ||||
The first pitch is at least a 5c. Super runout by the end of it which might be ok for an experienced and advanced climber but for a 5c climber can be extremely scary. The topo marks it as a sports climb but at certain parts which are relatively hard for the assigned grade the runout is too much to call this a sport climb. I agree with thecrag.com marking this as mixed trad. The Bellamy anchor locations do not match the topo. Take nuts and slings at least. Nevertheless, do not allow these extra challenges to stop you. A great climb. I recommend 😊
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5a | ★★ Celjski stup | 160m, 7 | Paklenica | Wed 26th Oct 2022 | |||||
5a |
★★ Celjski stup
1
5a
40m
2
4a
40m
3
3a
40m
4
4a
40m
| 160m, 7 | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Aug 2018 | ||||
4a |
★★ Snoopy
1
3a
25
2
3a
25
3
3a
25
4
4a
25
| 100m, 4 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th May 2018 | ||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th May 2018 | ||||
First full trad route!
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3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Fri 11th Oct 2019 | ||||
Sehr schöne Verschneidung in der ersten Länge.
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3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic - with Daniel Kovacs | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Mon 13th Jul 2020 | ||||
First pitch got a very nice slab. After that its mainly ridge climbing.
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4a | ★★ Zubatac - with Daniel Kovacs | 60m, 3 | Paklenica | Mon 13th Jul 2020 | |||||
Second pitch its easy to get lost. Head left and climb till the vertical wall and then traverse right.
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3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic - with Fehér Csaba | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Jul 2020 | ||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Wed 15th Sep 2021 | ||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | Tue 12th Oct 2021 | |||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic - with Emma | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | Sat 14th Sep 2019 | |||||
Graded French 3 but was an interesting corner crack. Had one bolt on it. Needed to lead first trad pitch on this ridgeline climb.
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4a | ★★ Zubatac | 60m, 3 | Paklenica | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
3 |
★★ Oliver Dragojevic
- with
Foki Karesz
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
My partner got sick after the first pitch so we rappeled down but the first pitch was mega classic
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4a | ★★ Zubatac - with Dana | 60m, 3 | Paklenica | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | |||||
i fell because i am retarded
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3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic - with Maciej Dziki | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Oct 2021 | ||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | Paklenica | Thu 23rd May 2024 | |||||
There is one bolt in the first pitch a bit further to the left on the steepest part. We used it, but it caused a lot of unnecessary rope drag. I think it is better to skip it.
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3 | ★★ Desna strana stupa | 150m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Thu 29th Jul 2021 | ||||
3 | ★★ Desna strana stupa | 150m | Paklenica | Sun 18th Oct 2015 | |||||
4c+ 5a | ★★ Lidijin | 90m | Paklenica | Average | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | ||||
4a | ★ Ranozoreći | 210m | Paklenica | Tue 25th Aug 1987 | |||||
Damals 1987 im kommunistischen Jugoslawien noch keine eingebohrte u. benannte Kletterroute, sondern in westlichen Kletterführern lediglich als Nordwestgrat bezeichnet.
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4a | ★ Ranozoreći - with Dani | 210m | Paklenica | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | |||||
5a Hard |
★★★ Istočni brid
1
4a
New bolts at the first anchor.
2
5a
| 80m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th May 2023 | ||||
Easy climb but with a beautiful view of Anika Kuk and the other side of the valley.👍
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4a | ★ Ranozoreći | 210m | Paklenica | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
3+ | ★★ Pored žute mrlje | 80m | Paklenica | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
6b+ |
Rajna
- with
Jakob
1
6b+
2
6b+
3
5a
| 350m | Paklenica | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||||
5a | ★★ Lidijin - with frantis krantis | 90m | Paklenica | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||||
5a | ★★ Lidijin - with Matěj Mach | 90m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
3+ | ★★ Pored žute mrlje | 80m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th May 2024 | ||||
Friendly route. many cracks/ fins for gear placement. a lot of bushes and vegetation on the route. decend by small and easy downclimb route at the top behind the bolts (east side), than easy walk around.
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Sport | |||||||||
6a | ★★★ Doturski | 170m, 56 | Koludar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Oct 2022 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Sive jeze | 150m, 32 | Biokovo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Oct 2017 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Branko i danguba extended - with Mateja | 50m, 28 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Prva ljubav - with Linda Ahmeti | 45m, 25 | Čikola | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
6c/c+ | ★★ Sami vrh - with Linda Ahmeti | 46m, 25 | Čikola | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
6c+/7a Hard | ★★★ Prva ljubav | 45m, 25 | Čikola | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
Amazing route if done in a single push all 45m are amazing. Starts with a hard technical slab and than tranfers into a nice crack all the way to the top
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6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | Mon 14th Jun 2021 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Nov 2021 | ||||
Treba 23 kompleta
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6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Fri 19th Nov 2021 | ||||
6a 6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | Thu 24th Feb 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca - with Katja Gavran, Matej Resnik, Matej Pilić, Didi, Helena Dolamič | 38m, 23 | Čikola | Wed 27th Apr 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca - with Mateja | 38m, 23 | Čikola | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Mar 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | Tue 22nd Aug 2017 | |||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
Amazing route on nice crimps with a good rest in the middle
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6a+ | Colakappa | 40m, 20 | Hvar | Average | Sat 18th May 2013 | ||||
Meh, not the best car in the lot. I had my backwards hands on big time for this.
Only the first section as the top two were 5c doodle.
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6a+ | ★ Big crack | 35m, 19 | Hvar | ★ Good | Fri 17th May 2013 | ||||
Nice and long. Two long routes for breakfast and I was feeling worked already. This wall has so many routes all squished in It can be a little tricky to spot where your line goes.... Up
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6a+ | ★ Big crack | 35m, 19 | Hvar | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||||
Uporan!
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5c 7a | Extaza - with Tine Dahlen | 20m, 18 | Hvar | Sun 22nd Jul 2018 | |||||
5c 6a+ | ★★ Jumper - with Tine Dahlen | 30m, 18 | Hvar | Mon 6th Aug 2018 | |||||
5c |
★★ Jumper (Jumper Kombiniere Right Jumper)
1
5c
7
2
5b
8
3
linkup Right Jumper
| 15m, 18 | Hvar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | ||||
5c |
Extaza
1
5c
20
| 20m, 18 | Hvar | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | |||||
6a+ | Big blue | 40m, 18 | Hvar | Sun 24th Jul 2016 | |||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Nov 2021 | ||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Nov 2021 | ||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | Thu 24th Feb 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th May 2022 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Jumper
1
5c
20m
2
5b
5m
3
6a+
4
| 25m, 18 | Hvar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Aug 2022 | ||||
6b | ★★ VR46 - with Mateja | 35m, 18 | Čikola | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | Wed 22nd May 2019 | |||||
6b Easy | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | ||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | ★ Good | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
6b | ★★ VR46 | 35m, 18 | Čikola | Tue 28th May 2024 | |||||
6c+ 7a+ | ★★ Sarajevo | 30m, 17 | Hvar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th May 2013 | ||||
This was one of the first really lines I spotted when I arrived yesterday. Climbs a long red pocked water groove. Sadly it's a little sharp but the climbing is good. Really sustained route with my whole body getting a pump.
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7a | ★★ Las Vegas | 32m, 17 | Hvar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | ||||
I though this was going to be easy.... Nope.
Long and sustained pocket pulling. The wall is vert with a few undulations so you have to work on the steeper places.
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7a 7b | ★★★ T2 kings | 30m, 17 | Hvar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th May 2013 | ||||
This looked ard from the ground so a questioned the 7a price tag but signed up for the ride anyway.
Yep hard, closer to 7a+ but brilliant pocket pulling with the odd jug so you can compose yourself. One of my favourite routes.
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7a | ★★ Paradise Garden | 40m, 17 | Hvar | ★ Good | Wed 11th May 2011 | ||||
Pitch 1 only - 5b
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6a+ | ★ Gate | 40m, 17 | Hvar | ★ Good | Fri 29th May 2015 | ||||
5b 7a | ★★ Paradise Garden - with Tine Dahlen | 30m, 17 | Hvar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Aug 2018 | ||||
6a | Raid road bill - with Tine Dahlen | 37m, 17 | Hvar | Mon 6th Aug 2018 | |||||
5b |
★★ Paradise Garden
1
5b
40m
2
5b
| 40m, 17 | Hvar | Fri 4th Oct 2019 | |||||
5c | ★★ Brijem da da | 29m, 17 | Čikola | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||||
5c | ★★ Brijem da da | 29m, 17 | Čikola | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||||
7a | ★★ Las Vegas | 32m, 17 | Hvar | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||||
Traje i traje
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5b |
★★ Paradise Garden
1
10
2
10
| 20m, 17 | Hvar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | ||||
SL 1 + SL2
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6c+ 7a | ★★ American Express | 25m, 17 | Hvar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
5a | ★★★ Necete u Cavoglave (Nećete u Čavoglave) | 37m, 17 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2020 | ||||
5a | ★★★ Karamela | 35m, 17 | Čikola | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2020 |