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Rozpolcený roh Guide

  • Contexto da graduação: SX
  • Aka: Gespaltenes Horn

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Terenc

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Rozpolcený roh 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 50.889280, 14.260970

descrição

Climbing allowed 1.7.-31.1.

questões de acesso

available in Hřensko (50.8750, 14.2540) or Mezní Louka (50.8727, 14.3164), both paid. Do not ever park at street side. You will get fined.

herdado de Hřensko

ética

Nature Park rules overwrite the general sandstone climbing rules:

  1. Only certain crags are permitted for climbing. Those closed for climbing are all highlighted with #closed tag.

  2. Climbing is allowed only in certain months. See Description of each cliff.

  3. Use of chalk is prohibited.

  4. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  5. No changing of the rock surface.

  6. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  7. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  8. First ascents must be approved upfront from national park and ČHS administration. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  9. Only official access paths can be used. See maps attached in the particular areas.

Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/332/056710.pdf?seek=1594370530

herdado de České Švýcarsko
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stará cesta / Alter Weg V Trad
2 Jihozápadní cesta / Südwestwand V Trad
3 Varianta / Variante VI Trad
4 Liguere VIIa Trad
5 Severní cesta / Nordweg V Trad
6 Východní hrana / Ostkante IV 1 Trad
7 Lví spára / Löwenriss VIIc Trad
8 Východní stěna (Přímé čelisti) / Ostwand (Direkte Kieferknochen) VIIb Trad
9 Vysněná stěna / Traumwand VIIIa Trad
10 Údolní cesta / Talweg VIIc Trad
11 Čelisti / Kieferknochen VIIb Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
IV/1 Východní hrana Trad
V Jihozápadní cesta Trad
Severní cesta Trad
Stará cesta Trad
VI Varianta Trad
VIIa Liguere Trad
VIIb Východní stěna (Přímé čelisti) Trad
Čelisti Trad
VIIc Lví spára Trad
Údolní cesta Trad
VIIIa Vysněná stěna Trad
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