A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
GeorgD
Nicolas Descloux
Pierre Segonne
Campbell Gome
Danny van Bruggen
Garrath Evans
olivialee甜甜
Dumarest
Antoine Dudu
Xavier
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Chaîne des Aravis
217 in Crag
- 1.1. La Pointe de Chombas 6 in Cliff
- 1.2. La Mamule 5 in Cliff
-
1.3.
Rocher des Aravis 101 in Cliff
- 1.3.1. Cinoche 16 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Passion 7 in Sector
- 1.3.3. Reveries d'un grimpeur solitaire 7 in Sector
- 1.3.4. Secteur des quatre vents 8 in Sector
- 1.3.5. Funambule suicidaire 8 in Sector
- 1.3.6. Vaisseau de pierre 8 in Sector
- 1.3.7. Grand toit 6 in Sector
- 1.3.8. Arbre mort 6 in Sector
- 1.3.9. Pilier de l'echelle 5 in Sector
- 1.3.10. Soleil des loups 7 in Sector
- 1.3.11. Secteur des Guides 10 in Sector
- 1.3.12. 3 Longueurs en 2 7 in Sector
- 1.3.13. Coupe-Coupe 5 in Sector
- 1.3.14. Ruisseau 1 in Sector
- 1.4. Paroi de Gramusset 2 in Cliff
- 1.5. Le Mont Charvet 0 in Cliff
- 1.6. Tardevant 0 in Cliff
- 1.7. Les Rochers de la Salla 0 in Cliff
- 1.8. La Pointe Percée 7 in Cliff
-
1.9.
Tours d'Areu 15 in Area
- 1.9.1. Contrefort des Tours d'Areu 2 in Cliff
- 1.9.2. Tour d'Areu #1 5 in Cliff
- 1.9.3. Tour d'Areu #2 1 in Cliff
- 1.9.4. Tour d'Areu #3 1 in Cliff
- 1.9.5. Zone Médiane 0 in Cliff
- 1.9.6. Tour d'Areu #4 2 in Cliff
- 1.9.7. Tour d'Areu #5 1 in Cliff
- 1.9.8. Tour d'Areu #6 3 in Cliff
- 1.9.9. Tourelle 0 in Cliff
- 1.10. Cascade de Doran 10 in Crag
- 1.11. Carrière Flumet 20 in Crag
- 1.12. Mottets / Une belle dalle 19 in Crag
-
1.13.
Rocher de Marlens 32 in Crag
- 1.13.1. Esplanade 23 in Sector
- 1.13.2. Petit Charvin 3 in Sector
- 1.13.3. Les torches 6 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Chaîne des Aravis 217 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.879747, 6.477841
descrição
La Chaîne des Aravis is a chain of mountain ranges in eastern France, Savoie and Haute-Savoie, mainly consisting of limestone. It has a north-south orientation with a roughly 40km long ledge of around 500 m heigth to the east, offering great views to Mont Blanc. The altitude ranges from 625 m in Thônes to 2750 m, there are many deep valleys, steep slopes, massive cliffs and slants. This complex surface profile combined with high & evenly precipitation of around 60-90 mm each month cause diverse microclimates and rich flora. Rural and touristic with many designated climbs of nearly all types & grades, via ferrata, hikes, bike tours, skiing and paragliding possibilities – but there are many quiet spots if you avoid french summer holidays.
questões de acesso
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
onde ficar
Many hotels, châlets (huts rented as a whole), holiday apartements and camping grounds are available but well booked in the high season.
ética
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. La Pointe de Chombas 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada em rocha
Lat / Long: 45.947028, 6.542956
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Confidentiel | 6c+ | 200m | |||
2 | Passe present | 6b | 50m | |||
3 | La messe du temps present | 6b+ | 120m | |||
4 | La malle a malice | 6b | 200m | |||
5 |
★ L'été indien
FA: Michel Piola & Michel Decottignies, 1996 | 5c | 200m | |||
6 | Pépète | 6b+ | 210m, 5 |
1.2. La Mamule 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Escalada em rocha e Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.935247, 6.528697
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Hamlet
FA: Michel Piola & Benoit Robert, 1998 | 7a+ | 200m | |||
2 |
★ L'oiseau de feu
FA: Michel Piola, Pascal Favre, Jérôme Maupoint, Thierry Perillat et Jean-Pierre Seydoux, Thierry Perillat & Jean-Pierre Seydoux, 1996 | 6c+ | 200m | |||
3 |
★ Le tonneau des Danaides
FA: Michel Piola & Jean-Pierre Seydoux, 1995 | 5c+ | 250m | |||
4 | Voie du 51 | |||||
5 |
Muraille de Chine
FA: Michel Piola & Benoit Robert, 1997 | 7c+ |
1.3. Rocher des Aravis 101 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.837695, 6.482183
descrição
Topo at http://fabcime.com/topo_col_des_aravis.html
At the Col des Aravis, you can enjoy food & drinks or have a wlak with a nice view – also to Mont Blanc.
acesso
From the (45.879060, 6.451519) "Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard" (further parking lots in the lower road turns) just follow the "voies d'escalade" panels along the path from the car park.
1.3.1. Cinoche 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882634, 6.447787
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ les tontons bringueurs | 5c | 20m, 9 | |||
2 | ★★ i comme ivrogne | 6a+ | 20m, 9 | |||
3 | ? | 5m, 3 | ||||
4 | ?? | 5m | ||||
5 | ★ la grande bidouille | 4c | 20m, 9 | |||
6 | ★★ la tache et le poissonnier | 4c | 20m, 8 | |||
7 | ★★★ a l'est des dents | 4b | 20m, 6 | |||
8 | ★★ Jean Bon 007 | 3b | 20m, 6 | |||
9 |
★ la folie des glandeurs
Lower off at middle of route, to explain & check from ground. | 3a | 20m, 9 | |||
10 |
★ La vie
Lower off at middle of route, to explain & check from ground. | 4c | 21m, 10 | |||
11 |
★★★ La baffe
Two lower off nearby each other; length and bolt count till lower one. Add length & bolts for 2nd rope length. | 4b | 20m, 7 | |||
12 |
★★★ danse avec les boucs
Two lower off nearby each other; length and bolt count till upper one. Add length & bolts for 2nd rope length. | 4a | 20m, 2, 8 | |||
13 | ★ une tomme et une lame | 3c | 15m, 8 | |||
14 |
★ les 7 fonctionnaires
Lower off well reachable from 'une tomme et une lame' and '???ea ??cage'. | 5a | 16m, 8 | |||
15 |
La cage
Lower off at bottom to explain & check. | 5b | 16m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★★ La grand nœud | 5b | 20m, 5 |
1.3.2. Passion 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882730, 6.447782
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | soleil de lune | 35m, 14 | ||||
2 | la danse des ombres | 6c | 30m, 11 | |||
3 | l'ethique est choc | 7b | 30m, 12 | |||
4 | l'influx reflue | 7c+ | 30m, 8 | |||
5 | un amour, une passion | 7c | 35m, 12 | |||
6 | ★★★ coeur de pierre | 7a | 25m, 8 | |||
7 | le fou d'artifice | 6b | 25m, 8 |
1.3.3. Reveries d'un grimpeur solitaire 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882641, 6.448042
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ le troisieme monde | 7a+ | 55m, 2, 16 | |||
2 | la traversee du desert | 7b+ | 55m, 10 | |||
3 | le bal des fous | 6b | 25m, 7 | |||
4 | reveries d'un grimpeur solitaire | 6c | 70m, 3, 25 | |||
5 | les illusions perdues | 6c+ | 75m, 3, 22 | |||
6 | balade au bout du monde | 7b | 45m, 16 | |||
7 | etrange fascination | 7b+ | 55m, 2, 20 |
1.3.4. Secteur des quatre vents 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882660, 6.448384
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ les quatre vents | 6a+ | 55m, 3, 18 | |||
2 | ★★★ le pouvoir de la haine | 7a | 35m, 2, 20 | |||
3 | ★★★ desequilibre fatal | 6b+ | 55m, 3, 22 | |||
4 | ★ a la recherche du temps perdu | 6c | 55m, 3, 25 | |||
5 | ★★ sahra | 6c+ | 20m, 6 | |||
6 | ★★★ insomnies | 6c A0 | 55m, 3, 23 | |||
7 | pollen | 7b | 30m, 2, 15 | |||
8 | prise de tete | 7b+ | 27m, 8 |
1.3.5. Funambule suicidaire 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882765, 6.448782
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | lolita | 6a | 45m, 2, 12 | |||
2 | solitude abyssale | 6b | 35m, 11 | |||
3 | paranoia | 7a+ | 35m, 12 | |||
4 | rebelle | 7a | 50m, 2, 13 | |||
5 | l'epee de damocles | 7b+ | 25m, 8 | |||
6 | le funambule suicidaire | 7b+ | 28m, 10 | |||
7 | delicieuse incertitude | 7b | 35m, 2, 15 | |||
8 |
les doigts de porcelaine
7c through the overhang; 7b through the crack on the right | 7c | 15m, 8 |
1.3.6. Vaisseau de pierre 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882892, 6.449145
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
le syndrome de la cloche a fromage
first pitch A1/6b | 6c A1 | 40m, 2, 18 | |||
2 | ★★ le vaisseau de pierre | 7b | 55m, 2, 20 | |||
3 | ocean de sable | 6b | 35m, 11 | |||
4 | visa pour l'enfer | 6a | 20m, 6 | |||
5 | histoire sans heros | 6c+ | 8m, 4 | |||
6 | fou furieux | 8 | ||||
7 | noir l'amour | 7b | 30m, 10 | |||
8 | l'espace infini | 7b | 25m, 10 |
1.3.7. Grand toit 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.882978, 6.449344
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | les quarantiemes jaunissants | 6b | 30m, 12 | |||
2 | ★★★ le pilier jaune | 7a | 55m, 2, 17 | |||
3 | gaz a gogo | 6b | 25m, 8 | |||
4 | ★★★ le grand toit | 8a | 30m, 11 | |||
5 | Macarel premier | 6b | 10m, 4 | |||
6 | Amelie Sakapov | 6b | 25m, 2, 12 |
1.3.8. Arbre mort 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883089, 6.449447
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | l'arbre coupe | 5c | 30m, 12 | |||
2 | ★★★ l'arbre mort | 4c | 25m, 5 | |||
3 | directe | 5c | 25m, 8 | |||
4 | le fil d'ariane | 6a | 25m, 8 | |||
5 | le fil a coudre | 5a | 25m, 6 | |||
6 | metal hurlant | 6a+ | 25m, 7 |
1.3.9. Pilier de l'echelle 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883183, 6.449584
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | la momo | 6b+ | 15m, 7 | |||
2 | aquablue | 7b | 15m, 6 | |||
3 | pilier de l'echelle | 4c | 15m, 6 | |||
4 | errare humanum ouest | 5c+ | 30m, 12 | |||
5 | l'aube noire | 6b+ | 15m, 7 |
1.3.10. Soleil des loups 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883174, 6.449757
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | le soleil des loups | 7b | 50m, 2, 14 | |||
2 | la goutte qui fait deborder le vase | 7b+ | 25m, 6 | |||
3 | la goutte au nez | 25m, 8 | ||||
4 | megage | 6a+ | 50m, 2, 14 | |||
5 | megavolt | 6b | 20m, 7 | |||
6 | le reve et l'assassin | 7c | 25m, 10 | |||
7 | destroy | 7a | 20m, 5 |
1.3.11. Secteur des Guides 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883193, 6.449952
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La gouape | 6b | 50m, 2, 11 | |||
2 | les marmottons | 5a | 8m, 3 | |||
3 | la marmotte | 4b | 8m, 3 | |||
4 | ★★ Voie des Guides | 4c | 50m, 3, 16 | |||
5 | la dudule | 4b | 15m, 5 | |||
6 | ★ Super Kid | 6b | 50m, 2, 11 | |||
7 | voie des debutants | 3c | 15m, 4 | |||
8 | le diedre gris | 4b | 15m, 3 | |||
9 | les premiers pas | 5b+ | 15m, 6 | |||
10 | L'enflure | 5b+ | 18m, 6 |
1.3.12. 3 Longueurs en 2 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883261, 6.450211
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Le Nez | 5c | 50m, 11 | |||
2 | ★★ la grotte | 5c | 50m, 2, 13 | |||
3 | le chemin de l'innocence | 6b+ | 30m, 12 | |||
4 | l'autoroute sauvage | 6b | 55m, 2, 15 | |||
5 | ★★ 3 longueurs en 2 | 5c | 55m, 2, 16 | |||
6 | just do it | 6c | 30m, 10 | |||
7 | le reve de jean-pierre | 6b | 30m, 11 |
1.3.13. Coupe-Coupe 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883303, 6.450443
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Coupe-Coupe | 3c | 20m, 6 | |||
2 | la grande zaza | 4c | 20m, 7 | |||
3 | la petite zaza | 5c | 20m, 7 | |||
4 | lulu la raquette | 5b | 20m, 6 | |||
5 | les lolos de lili | 5c+ | 20m, 7 |
1.3.14. Ruisseau 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.883609, 6.451339
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | les mysteres de l'est | 6b | 5 |
1.4. Paroi de Gramusset 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.954734, 6.550995
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Sorry Angel | ED | 4 | |||
2 | L’Ombre chinoise | 6a D | 180m, 8 |
1.5. Le Mont Charvet 0 routes in Cliff
1.6. Tardevant 0 routes in Cliff
1.7. Les Rochers de la Salla 0 routes in Cliff
1.8. La Pointe Percée 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.955409, 6.555929
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ L’Arête du Doigt | 4c D | 250m, 12 | |||
2 |
★ L'Arête du doigt: sortie directe
At the end, climb straight up on the edge of the ridge. The last pitch can be aided (A0) | 6c | 250m, 11 | |||
3 | La Voie du Trou | 5c D | 250m | |||
4 | Le vortex | 6a | 300m, 7 | |||
5 | Le lagopède | 5b | 350m, 8 | |||
6 | Ça rigole dans les cannelures | 5c TD | 350m, 7 | |||
7 | Goûter à Gramusset | 6a | 400m, 10 |
1.9. Tours d'Areu 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad
Lat / Long: 45.978552, 6.587268
1.9.1. Contrefort des Tours d'Areu 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.976811, 6.582192
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pas si bémol que ça
Easiest route of the sector. Either rappel in the route or walk down by joining the couloir de la Forclaz FA: Béatrice Bressand & Christophe Bressand, 1998 | 6b | 170m, 5 | |||
2 | ★★ Le vent des steppes | 7a | 210m, 6 |
1.9.2. Tour d'Areu #1 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.976791, 6.583859
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Le parcours du Coeur battant | 7b A0 | 200m, 8 | |||
2 | ★★ Y a pas que l'accu dans la vie | 7b | 140m, 5 | |||
3 |
★★★ Alcootest (sortie Étranger) / Alcootest
FA: Michel Piola & Thierry Perillat, 1989 | 7a+ | 180m, 7, 12 | |||
4 | ★★ Symphonie d'automne | 7b A0 | 160m, 6 | |||
5 | ★★★ Étranger, d'où viens-tu? | 7a+ | 160m, 6 |
1.9.3. Tour d'Areu #2 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.977299, 6.584972
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Ballade pour Jean-Pascal
Opened as a homage to Jean-Pascal Vidil FA: Gilles Brunot, Denis Cardot, Jean Ladurelle & Fabrice Pomet, 1994 | 7c+ | 160m, 6 |
1.9.4. Tour d'Areu #3 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.977951, 6.585888
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Passant, va dire à Sparte ...
FA: Michel Piola, Thierry Perillat & Benoit Robert, 1995 | 7a+ | 200m, 6 |
1.9.5. Zone Médiane 0 routes in Cliff
1.9.6. Tour d'Areu #4 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.979189, 6.588233
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Agamemnon
FA: Michel Piola, Bruno Guerbet & Benoit Robert, 1996 | 7a | 160m, 5 | |||
2 | ★★ Copacabana | 6b | 190m, 6 |
1.9.7. Tour d'Areu #5 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.979517, 6.589831
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Aguirre
FA: Michel Piola & Hervé Bouvard, 1993 | 7b | 200m, 6 |
1.9.8. Tour d'Areu #6 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada trad
Lat / Long: 45.980216, 6.591418
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Cris et chuchotements
FA: Michel Piola & Dominique Loup, 1996 | 7b | ||||
2 |
Péril en la demeure
FA: Michel Piola, Thierry Perillat & Stéphane Schumacher, 1996 | 7b | 270m, 10 | |||
3 |
Maudit 13
FA: Michel Piola & Thierry Perillat, 1992 | 7a+ | 300m, 10 |
1.9.9. Tourelle 0 routes in Cliff
1.10. Cascade de Doran 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.970097, 6.595742
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La chèvre de mon voisin | 8a | 21m | |||
2 | Ballade pour Yok | 8a | ||||
3 | Les larmes de pluie medium | 8a | ||||
4 | ★★ Challenger intégral | 8a | ||||
5 | La pierre de lumière | 8b | ||||
6 | Mah t'es haut ! | 8b+ | 30m | |||
7 | ★★ Le mur jaune | 8b | 42m | |||
8 | Le pilier du dauphin | 8a+ | ||||
9 | Les reflets de la terre | 7c+ | ||||
10 | Ingrat pour un gros | 7c+ |
1.11. Carrière Flumet 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.818806, 6.517944
sumário
Former quarry directly next to the street & parking.
descrição
Max heigth 15m, 8 quickdraws are fine. Flat area with pichnick table.
acesso
Just cross the street from (45.81866, 6.51837).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flumetum | 5c | ||||
2 | Le Feu de la rampe | 4b | ||||
3 | Danse folklorique | 6c+ | ||||
4 | La Balade du gecko | 6b | ||||
5 | Traversée des Claudettes | |||||
6 | La Martinette | 7a+ | ||||
7 | La Tonio | 6c | ||||
8 | La Lulu | 5c | ||||
9 | La Farfa | 4b | ||||
10 | La Lynette | 3 | ||||
11 | La Romanette | 3 | ||||
12 | La Lauguique | 5b | ||||
13 | Pontets Réglette | 6a+ | ||||
14 | Arly Mac Fly | 6b | ||||
15 | El Biau Fort | 6b | ||||
16 | Val d'à l'aise | 6a | ||||
17 | Du Gâteau | 5c | ||||
18 | Chaucisse Flumet | 6c | ||||
19 | La Croué | 4a | ||||
20 | Arrondine les angles | 4b+ |
1.12. Mottets 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.791767, 6.486741
sumário
Small crag next to the river Arly in a shady, tree covered valley.
descrição
Stone & Topo: Granite. Mostly solid, some parts really brittle, interesting shapes & structures: Sometimes grey slab with bigger gravel, sometimes colorful (best visible with sunlight) with few & little grains, sometimes tiny dark crystals, sometimes lots of friction, sometimes very smooth and appearing like sanded (by a glacier?). As the crag is located at valley's bottom, a helmet makes sense despite of the fences protecting from earth, leafs and debris falling down. Topo available on an information board at the crag and as a sheet of paper in the tourist information, but not any more accurately matching bolts + lower offs.
Security: For a sport climbing crag in France, average bolt density. Cliff is max 40m high with intermediate belay stations, so 12 quickdraws and a 50m rope are fine, no nuts, friends etc. required. Lower offs are 2 bolts connected with a chain. Toprope possible for few routes - going down the approach, on the right you'll notice some horizontal steel cable and stables like used for a via ferrata. Some holds have been cut into the rock.
Comfort: Standing area of comfortable size, on left wall ~1 m and right wall ~2 m wide, mostly even ground that is levelled or has a gentle incline. The crag is next to the river and street; the vast majority of vehicles produce a continuos sound and stay mostly unnoticed behind the loud river's rushing, but the sportive drivers using high engine speed make communication difficult – so you may want to avoid first/last sunny weekend days of the year. 6/2022 weak mobile coverage. Large pick-nick table between parking and cliff.
Temperatures: In summer sunshine, some parts of the rock are quite hot to touch for a longer time. Mid June, at 17:00 the first rope length of right wall becomes shady, 17:45 first two rope lengths, 18:00 all. Many flies that do not bite but fly nearby the face. In winter time, probably (TODO: confirm with approximate dates or reject) always shady.
acesso
From (45.79223, 6.48793) walk down the path, go straight through the pick-nick area with table, continue the steeper path (a little slippery due to leafs & needles) and walk down the stairs.
onde ficar
Bakery Au Sommet des Anges in Crest-Volland is very friendly and offers great bread, tartes and sweets.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mur gaucheMore colorful rock offering less friction and containing few grains. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ L'Aérienne / gauche 1 bas
2-3 longer quickdraws come in handy where bolts are around the corner. | 4a | 6 | |||||
3 |
★ Vérifie ton noeud / gauche 2 bas
Bottom quite smooth for this crag and bolts spacious for the smoothness. | 5b | 4 | |||||
4 |
gauche 1+2 haute
If you know whether this is part of "Vérifie ton noeud" or "L'Aérienne", please rename accordingly. | 3 | 3 | |||||
5 |
★ Voie sans issue / gauche 3
Bottom and middle quite smooth for this crag. | 6a | ||||||
6 |
Jambe longue / gauche 4
Bottom and middle quite smooth for this crag. | 5c | ||||||
7 | Jambe courte / gauche 5 | 6c | 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Mur droiteMore greyish, less colorful rock. In the lower part, mostly few & little grains, in the upper half bigger gravel. | ||||||||
9 | La Gratounette / droite 1 | 5c | 3 | |||||
10 |
Le Lézarde (bas) / droite 2 (bas)
3rd pitch modeled as route on itself because that pitch can also be reached by various other routes. | 5b | 2 | |||||
11 | Le Lézarde (haute) / droite 2 (haute) | 3 | ||||||
12 | La Lulu / droite 3 | 4a | ||||||
13 | La Mignonette / droite 4 | 5c | ||||||
14 | La Dré dans l'pentu (bas) / droite 5 (bas) | 4c | ||||||
15 |
La Dré dans l'pentu (haute) / droite 5 (haute)
2rd pitch modeled as route on itself because that pitch can also be reached by various other routes. | 6a+ | 2 | |||||
16 |
droite 6
If you know whether this route is called "La Croué" or another carries that name, please edit accordingly. | 5a | ||||||
17 | ★★ La Faylle (bas) / droite 7 (bas) | 5a | ||||||
18 |
★★ La Faylle (haute) / droite 7 (haute)
2rd pitch modeled as route on itself because that pitch can also be reached by various other routes. | 4c | ||||||
19 | La Crestvolantine / droite 8 | 5a | 3 | |||||
20 |
droite 8 droite
If you know the real name, insert it and move current numer name into AKA field. | 5b | ||||||
21 |
Le Dos rond / droite 9
Bigger distance between bolts than usual in this crag. | 4a |
1.13. Rocher de Marlens 32 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 45.767921, 6.360902
- Said to be available for 5€ at the majors office / Mairie.
- Bornes Aravis by Gilles Brunot
sumário
Sport climbing at limestone of different characteristics depending on sector.
descrição
Topo
acesso
Park on the street verge of Route de la Flamme Olympique near the bridge (45.76581, 6.35667), or in the village, or southeast of the crag on the big (
45.76626, 6.36470) next to Route d'Annecy. From La croix du moulin, take the track, first track right, after two small fords at guidepost Les Barmes (6/2022 an eye-catching wooden sculpture is nearby) take the path to the right (SAC T2 and some spots T3). The sectores are lined up next to that path.
1.13.1. Esplanade 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.767761, 6.359996
descrição
Solid limestone. Wall bottom of changing width and how even it is. Bolts every 1-2 m. Lower off chain or two bolts. Near the guidepost, two bolts are on ground level to show/explain.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ L'escalier / Le voi des Dalles
Next to lower off, 3 bolts exist and allow to take photos or explain from top. | 2c | 4 | |||
2 |
★★ L'échelle
Starts above "L'escalier". | 5b | 6 | |||
3 | Les dalles | 5c+ | ||||
4 | La pédale | 6a+ | ||||
5 | Loukoums hallucinogènes | 6b+ | ||||
6 |
Dièdre au Cyclamen
After ½ of "Loukoums hallucinogènes", traverse nearly horizontally to the left into "Le petit chêne (L2)". | 5b | ||||
7 | Vol au Vent Directe | 4a | ||||
8 | Albertvillois | 5c | ||||
9 | La Théorie du Crabe | 6a | ||||
10 |
Le facteur
First ⅔ of "Loukoums hallucinogènes", then diagonally to the left, joining "Les oiseaux" | 6b+ | ||||
11 | La tire à Dédé | 6b | ||||
12 | L'échelle à clous | 7a+ | ||||
13 | Les yeux du chat | 7b+ | ||||
14 | Les oiseaux | 6a+ | ||||
15 | Le monde à l'envers | 7a | ||||
16 | Le pilier (L1) | 6a | ||||
17 | Le pilier (L2) | 6b | ||||
18 | Le petit chêne (L1) | 5c | ||||
19 | Le petit chêne (L2) | 6a+ | ||||
20 | La diagonale du fou | 6a | ||||
21 | Le dièdre du lierre | 5c | ||||
22 |
Noces de brumes
After ½ of "Le dièdre du lierre", take 2nd left. | 7a | ||||
23 |
Un rien d'étonnant
After ½ of "Le dièdre du lierre", take 1st left. | 7a+ |
1.13.2. Petit Charvin 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.768031, 6.361669
descrição
Solid limestone. Narrow, mostly level wall bottom. Bolts every 1-2 m. Lower off chain or two bolts.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Petit champion | 4c+ | 5 | |||||
2 | La Charlie | 6a | 8 | |||||
3 |
Rêves de gosses
| 5b | 7 |
1.13.3. Les torches 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.768348, 6.362359
descrição
Limestone, sometimes loose, sometimes solid. Narrow, mostly level wall bottom. Bolts every 2-4 m.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Marino | 6c+ | ||||
2 | Giboulées | 6b+ | ||||
3 | Cocktail | 6c+ | ||||
4 | La Pirrot | 7a+ | ||||
5 | Le soliste | 6b+ | ||||
6 | Skippy | 7b+ |